Kickinmule

Yeah I'm goin your route ParadiseMJ. Renix TCU and engine harness and 92 trans and TC. Thanks Eagle, but where would I fit an aux cooler? The a/c condenser seems to take up all the room.

Lee, whatcha think of those kevlars?

Since my 88 MJ is manual I don't have tranny cooler lines. So when I swap in the auto should I bring over the 92 radiator and tranny cooler lines also? Or will the lines fit my current radiator? Are y'all having fun with this noob? "Oh my, he doesn't even know what a blah, blah, blah etc. is?" Hope so!

So that's what that is! My brother in law is such a CAD...elimination attempts have failed to this point

Ok got it.

anybody know if this can be saved? the green tube is broken off just inside the white plastic sleeve. I don't even know what this part is. Wow I hate being ignorant... This vacuum line goes to the front axle. So will the broken off bit in the sleeve pull out so i can just shove the remaining tube back in?

Thanks Don, do you mean that the 92 HO AW4 won't be completely plug and play on the renix TCU?

Ok found it. ParadiseMJ swapped in a complete renix engine harness with TCU and it's harness to power his 94 aw4 swapped into his renix MJ. So plans are to pull the aw4 from the 92 XJ and it's accompanying 231 TC. Then go shopping for a 4x4 auto renix harness and TCU at the jy. Maybe sometime after Xmas...

If anyone could shed a little more light on this... My 88 chief doesn't have the TCU connector under the dash anywhere, no surprise since it's running a BA10. If I choose to replace the BA10 with the AW4 out of my donor 92 Cherokee will I need to bring the TCU and it's harness over with the tranny and splice it in or do I need to seek out an 88-90 TCU and it's harness for said 92 AW4?

You go Sir!

True Grit

I want one!

Patiently watching this...

We're almost twins

Ok pulled the Cousin's Cherokee home on a trailer today. It's a '92 Cherokee Laredo 4x4 aw4/np231 d30/d35. 242,xxx miles. Very straight and clean body, interior is not so great but not toast. It's Rollin 31x10.5x15s with less than 20% tread. Lower dash was loose and looks like someone's been tinkering. Engine bay looks good but right off I noticed the front lower exhaust manifold bolt is missing, hmm? So I've got some thinking to do. I still really want to run an auto in my Chief. I know the ba10 is covered in oil but until I put some miles on it I can't say its shot. However, the future called and said it would like to see a 4.5" lift, 33"s, an automatic and a re-gear(4.10 or 4.56) and if possible the 97+ conv. This begs the question- Is it worth trying to mate the '92 aw4/231 with 242,xxx on it to my renix or pass this buggy on and get to lookin for an auto 97+?

Ok pulled the Cousin's Cherokee home on a trailer today. It's a '92 Cherokee Laredo 4x4 aw4/np231 d30/d35. 242,xxx miles. Very straight and clean body, interior is not so great but not toast. It's Rollin 31x10.5x15s with less than 20% tread. Lower dash was loose and looks like someone's been tinkering. Engine bay looks good but right off I noticed the front lower exhaust manifold bolt is missing, hmm? So I've got some thinking to do. I still really want to run an auto in my Chief. I know the ba10 is covered in oil but until I put some miles on it I can't say its shot. However, the future called and said it would like to see a 4.5" lift, 33"s, an automatic and a re-gear(4.10 or 4.56) and if possible the 97+ conv. This begs the question- Is it worth trying to mate the '92 aw4/231 with 242,xxx on it to my renix or pass this buggy on and get to lookin for an auto 97+?

Finally had a few minutes to spend on the MJ today. So decided to change the oil. This will be its first since I got it started. Pulled the plug and watched the chocolate escape! Well at least it was chocolate in color. So spun on a store brand filter and some HD castrol I had went in next. Then I added a couple ounces of (and here is the crazy part) something my mechanic neighbor poured into an empty plastic bottle while saying "you can't get this, only for commercial mechanic shops" but he assured me it was going to do what the sea foam additive claims but better. He said it has improved compression every time he has used it. OK. So fire up the jeep. Run it up to 2000 rpm for 5 minutes and then I drained her again. Not quite as ugly colored this time. Spun on my new wix filter. Proceeded to add a gallon of T6 and as I was putting the cap on the empty oil jug I hear the last of the T6 emptying into the catch pan under the truck...&!%€~%#!!! Forgot something! Drain plugs are great if you use them! So replace drain plug and add the whole other gallon I had left that was supposed to be my top off jug. I'll pick up another one tomorrow. So didn't fire it back up as I'm 2 quarts low. Think I'll go in and pout.

@projectMANCHI glad you got it figured out. On the cold air intake, I have seen engine bay pics here with them installed on the Renix 4.0 but I don't know what mods were done to accommodate them. I think I saw a post relating to it and maybe even a manufacturer link to a bolt on somewhere. Google search time?

Changed out worn hoses and water pump today. Flushed again and then added coolant. Took the whole gallon then about a quarter to half gallon to get coolant flowing out of the temp sending unit orifice. Rechecked all hoses and clamps, attached battery ground, installed air filter box, installed temp sending unit and rest of vacuum hoses. Said a little prayer and keyed the ignition- Wow! It runs again. Hey and it's pretty d@mn quiet! Still have a bad cat converter making racket but up front is way better than expected. Ran at idle for probably 5-6 minutes and didn't get past 160* can't wait to do an oil change(or 2)!

Update: Started Comanche yesterday to prep for final coolant flush and refill...water pump makin lots of racket like the bearing is gone. This was expected. Then the leaking began. So the coolant flushing obviously working since it has cleaned up and out enough crud that if there were leaks they will now leak! Removed water pump. Mine was attached to the power steering bracket, so I found it easiest to loosen PS pump bolts, relieve the belt tension by turning the adjustment bolt on the PS pump, remove the serp belt, slide the pump and reservoir to the right and it gives enough room to get at that rear PS bracket bolt that can be overlooked when trying to remove the bracket. I didn't have to remove radiator or either fan. But I did forget to loosen Water pump pulley before removing tension so made that part a little tough. Upon inspection the interior of the block behind water pump looked suprisingly good as did the water pump innards. So pump and hoses next. Also did the C101 cleaning. Bam the Ac/heat controls started working, properly switching to def, vent and heat! Haven't gotten a response from the A/C yet but there is a busted toggle switch in my dash that apparently energizes the A/C. I suppose I could replace it but if anyone knows what would cause someone to repair it this way and if there is a better fix please chime in. Ok that's good for now.

Yeah, I've got family in Tyler. Would love to scope it out and pick your brain. My wife and I own a business in Canton, and I can sometimes get away, but getting ready for the next trade days right now. Definitely want to before I make some decisions I might regret. My project will be one of these "slow builds" for awhile...too many irons in the fire.

Jaw on floor in a pool of drool over all the goodies and execution. I am really amped up by your endeavor. Your truck is what I had in mind for mine when I first saw it in the neighbors pasture in a different light. Like, hey I've walked around/past that thing a hundred times and then- I bet that could be a great little truck! Your's proves that it can.

Thanks Backdraft, I'll take you up on that the next wall I hit. The short term list is getting shorter. 1. Brakes 2. Lighting(yea! electrical) turn signals, parking lights, one roll bar spot light so far no response. 3. A/C-heat I've only driven about a mile and a half but seems like the drive train is functioning properly, good engine response, easily shifts, clutch good but I do have a lot of noise that sounds like it's coming from the catalytic converter. Oh and power steering pump is whining a bit, need to check the level on that one. Still no leaks anywhere!

@projectMANCHI yes mine would always crank, just had no fire. I can definitely say that if you don't spend a little time on Cruiser's tips, you will be chasing ghosts! I replaced a couple parts thinking they were my culprits when my problem was insufficient ground. The firewall to engine block new ground was my savior. I had spent money and time and frustration on that freakin CPS when it probably didn't need replacing. Also the fuse panel had some corrosion upon inspection. I pulled my gauge fuse and brightened the posts, stuck it back in, removed the ground wire connection under the dash also, brightened it up and replaced it and it fixed my gauges.

Hot D*!# added an additional 4ga. Ground from the firewall to the manifold and PRESTO! The Chief started right up! It took about 30 seconds of running to settle into an idle but then steadied out. I also refreshed the cluster ground and BAM! We have gauges! Pretty sure the temp gauge is not reading properly, the engine seems to be a little hot, so time to get to the flushing and new thermostat. But for now, no leaks at idle and one trip around the driveway. Now to flush the cooling system and change out all the fluids. Very light pedal on brakes. Couldn't have had a better Sunday morning.