dybamx

20 slot? whats the story on those?

thanks for explaining that for me. I will take a look to see what the difference is, if the bracket looks too difficult to fabricate, I will just strip and swap the gears to the other axle. I was planning on that to begin with but got caught up in the idea of just using this housing. This is a project for this winter. I plan on stripping out the parts truck before winter and working on the gears, brakes, engine gaskets and whatever in the garage. this will be the first winter without a car or truck in the garage. I always start out with big plans for the winter, but things get too cramped to get anything done. I prefer to work on vehicles in my driveway where I have more room if the weather permits. Thanks also for the TJ flare tip, do you have any pics?

thanks guys, sorry to disappear for a while. I went and bought the axle anyway. I already have an MJ model 20 with 4.10s, thus my need to swap just the front gears. I am not a hardcore wheeler, just a little mud now and then. My plans are a 2 inch lift and hopefully I can fit the 33s I already have under it with a little fender trimming. If they don't fit, I will sell them and buy 31s, not a big deal. Back to the front axle, it seems to me that welding a few brackets is a lot easier than completely disassembling everything and setting up new gears. The axle I just bought looks good and clean inside, very little backlash and has new ujoints installed. What is different about the CAD? the new axle is missing it and I was counting on using my old one. my parts truck has the cable actuator already installed, so hopefully I can just use that.,

I have a parts truck with 3.55s, my plan was just to buy a ring and pinion set and swap them in, then I saw that all the 4.10 gears need a 3.73 and up carrier, so that would be another expense. This one is $180, the cost of just the ring and pinion to buy aftermarket, and these are factory, so that is a plus in my book

I was looking at the pics of it online and noticed that. are they otherwise the same? I have 2 friends who are excellent welders ( I can make 2 pieces stick together but am not a "welder") if it is as easy as welding on the brackets, that might be the way to go. I am doing a 4wd conversion, so I need to swap the axle anyway

is there a difference in the housings? it would be nice to swap the whole thing in, but that is asking a lot

thanks, is there anything else I should save from the axle? rotors? axle shafts?

is there any reason I can't use the gears and carrier from a YJ in my Comanche? I need 4.10s and found a YJ axle with them

good to know, thanks

are there any other trucks that use the same camper top, or one close enough to work? I am undecided if I want to get oine, but it would help- to know what to keep an eye out for. my MJ is a short bed

what brand is that camper in post #6, and what else does it fit?

It's a factory added "crush" disguised as clearance for the front exhaust pipe to driveshaft clearance. The crush can be eliminated as long as the pipe is routed differently. I have my local muffler shop fab them up on the vehicle. The "crush" was put there to restrict the exhaust flow so the catalytic converter would start working sooner. thanks, I will look into it when I do my engine swap

I just paid $17 for an aluminum one at the p&p

little bit of a hijack here, but what is "crush in the head pipe" ? I imagine some sort of exhaust defect, but don't really know

the reason for the right rear tire usually spinning first is due to the rotational torque of the driveshaft trying to lift that wheel, causing it to have slightly less contact area and weight.

I know most states are 25 yrs, but MD is 20 yrs. MD is one of the most restrictive states around and I have never been hassled for driving an historic vehicle. I drove my XJ and 71 Gremlin every day with them. I am not saying it can't happen, just not in my experience. Most of the restrictions come from antique auto insurance, which won't cover you if you are using it as daily transportation. As of now, there is now law that dictates which insurance you have to carry. For my cars, I insure them as drivers if that what I am using them for.

http://baltimore.craigslist.org/cto/4612428801.html

I just came back from looking at this, pukejoe trans, Dana 35 rear. bucket seats aren't too bad, aluminum wheels she needs to sell it, but doesn't seem too interested in coming down in price $500 http://baltimore.craigslist.org/cto/4611331406.html

that's awesome! thanks for the visual, I will definitely try these out.

Yuengling or Angry Orchard Crisp Apple, hunt deer, squirrel, and AMC/Jeep parts

the p.o. took the push bar and cap off before I got it, I need to give him back those white wheels too, no problem, I don't like them anyway :) lol, I figured I better put up a few pics. people get bored with just talk, especially with newbies. :) the J-20 is just sitting in the backyard right now. I let the tags expire because I wasn't driving it enough. It has a really crappy 304 in it right now, but will run and drive. I started building a 360 for it, but other projects got in the way and it's sitting on an engine stand waiting for me to get back to it.

figured I would share some pics new project Comanche parts truck 77 J-20 my poor used and abused Libby yes, I drug the Ford and the camper through the mud after his 4wd failed

the tires are 33x12.50 15s, so yeah 8" is the bare minimum, 10 would be ideal, but then fender clearance will be worse. I have been collecting parts for years and have several tall stacks of wheels in my basement, I will am going to have to dig through them one day and see what I can come up with. Most likely, I won't have a 4 15x8s though. I will just keep looking on Craigslist until the right set comes along. I have a ways to go on the project anyway. I probably won't start working on it until this fall or early winter. I will give the front locker some consideration, I need to buy gears for it anyway. For the rear, I have a 4.10 geared model 20 that I will be using

thanks guys, been busy lately, so I haven't checked in. Pics of those spacers would be great as I would like to do this as cheaply as possible, sweet J-truck BTW. I have a 77 J-20 with a Rhino grill. The welded front diff sounds tempting, but since it's only a Dana 30, I am kind of afraid to abuse it that much. Open in the front should be fine. For the rear, I will probably buy a drop-in locker to keep things simple. I want to run the 33s mainly because I already have them. as far as rake goes, a little rake isn't too bad as I am known to overload my vehicles from time to time. I will have to set it on level ground and decide if I want to even it out, or just raise it all around I was reading on here, about running aftermarket wheels and lots of folks were saying you need the factory wheels for the backspacing, so the fenders don't rub. Those obviously won't work with 33s, so I am going to see if I can scrounge a set of 15x8s. I know that's kind of narrow, but I think it will be livable. Years ago, I even ran 33s on 7" wheels

those would probably work, but I am talking about the flanges mentioned here.