teamsmith

awesome. thanks guys; I could not tell that the fpr disconnected from the rail. i ended up getting extra orings with my injector rebuild kit so I'll get right on that.

Hey everybody; it's been a couple of months since I've been on here but that is not because I've had a month of trouble free jeep ownership; rather I have had the truck parked in my yard while I procrastinated to deal with a fuel leak around the injectors and at the fuel rail. I bought and installed the full rebuilt kit for my injectors and that leak is fixed. However, I now get a drip drip drip from the FPR after I shut the engine off. Is there a way to rebuild the renix FPR? It's hard to even see where it has a seam that could have a leak. Would it be better to get an FPR from an HO model? You can see the drop of fuel on the bottom rim of the FPR. I cannot see where it is originating. Does the FPR come apart? Could it be at the connection to the fuel rail? At this point I still consider it undriveable until I'm no longer dripping fuel so any help is appreciated.

Welcome, Justin. I read your article on jalopnik this morning and came looking for you. I look forward to seeing what you do with it.

Is this Justin from Opposite Lock? http://oppositelock.kinja.com/pulled-the-trigger-1744089522 I just read your article. Welcome to the club. Why do you want to get rid of the Renix? Is there a problem or do you just see the rudamentary FI and vaccuum lines as potentials for headaches? FWIW, I plugged off all of my vacuum lines and removed my EGR. To answer your question: You can swap to OBDII with full harness, engine, flywheel, computer, and dash swap from a 97+ XJ (2 door or 4 door) but it's a real pain to fit the 97+ dash in. Any XJ or MJ from 91-96 is OBDI and but will still require a harness, computer, and flywheel swap. If you have a donor vehicle it's best to leave everything in it and swap over one piece at a time. A 2001 engine can't be swapped in without doing a full harness, fuses, the whole nine. Reason is ignition coil packs in the 2001 vs. the single ignitiion coil in 2000 and prior.

Thanks, An AX-15 would be great but I will drive it with the BA10 until it dies on me. I see that several sites list the seal as fitting but I've also run into issues where I've misunderstood the drawing and have ended up with a wrong seal. I've pulled the transmission many times to replace leaky slaves; I wish I had replaced this seal while I was at it. Does the TC just fall off the transsmission after I remove bolts or does it need to go backward any?

I have a leak I've been trying to ignore that is coming from between the TC and the ba10. It's leaking gear oil so it must be leaking from the transmission. Before I order the seal, how hard is it to remove the TC from the transmission? -Do I need to drop the cross member or can I just unbolt it and pull it back? Any tips? Can anyone confirm that this is the seal I need http://www.nolimit4x4.com/crown-automotive-ba-10-5-rear-oil-seal-83503250-manual-trans-output-shaft-seal/ Will I be able to replace the seal without having to open the transmission case? Thanks for your help

I only did one side. Following the logic of seal compression, coming up with a stop gap 'spacer' of sorts still makes sense, doesn't it?

Got it. I forgot that the bung is on the renix header. How much gas is in the tank? Could have built up with condensation while sitting for 6 weeks. Did you ever try spraying a starter fluid in the intake while cranking to see if it would turn over?

I agree it does sound like they're not seated and that is what I thought when I first pulled it off. I did the install myself with a BFH and cold chisel; an experience I will not repeat. They are fully seated, I can clearly see that the back of the bearing race goes all the way to the where the axle diameter increases and the bearing retainer sits nicely up against the inside of the bearing race. I do notice that there is a lot of inboard-outboard play on the bearing 'cage' (the piece that actually contains the roller bearings), meaning that it can move inboard and outboard by a fair amount. While not good, that doesn't seem like my problem since the axle should not be allowed to move outboard if the seal plate was cozied up better to the seal. I'll see if I can take some pictures or video tonight and post it.

You say you have plugs hanging under the engine that are not hooked up. Did you reconnect the o2 sensor, which had to be disco'd to remove the exhaust downpipe? I would think that it would still turnover even without a sensor but it's a thought. Are your starter wires tight? No chance you frayed or cut into the ground wire on the starter when removing/replacing it?

Well I'll never say I'm sure I didn't do something wrong. The retainer ring is snug against the bearing race and the bearing race is snug against the lower collar, but there is still room between the seal, # 4, and the seal retainer. The retainer will bolt down nice and tight against the axle tube but the axle itself has a lot of room to pull out before the seal bottoms out against the retainer. It's possible I have the wrong seal, # 4, but it's a new problem and I installed it 2k miles ago. Since you seem to have the book handy, do you know the torque specs on the nuts that hold the retainer to the housing? Also, the picture shows five holes for the retainer but mine only has 4, not sure if that is relevant but it is different. The funny part of all this is that I spent a whole bunch of time and energy replacing this bearing using a chisel and a hammer only to find out the noise I was trying to fix was actually a busted u-joint, which means whatever is going on now is a result of me needlessly screwing around with it. But that's just how it goes.

I installed a new bearing on my D35 about 2k miles ago and everything seemed to be hunky dorey until last week when I started hearing the loose rattle noise. I jacked it up and the rear wheel was loosey goosey. Pulled wheel/drum off and I could see there is a ton of play between the bolt on plate and the bearing seal. I pulled everything out and the bearing still looks good and is pushed all the down to the collar as it should be. I devised a spacer out of some metal flashing that I had laying around to try to take up the slack between the bearing seal and the bolt on plate. This worked fairly well and kept the rumble of doom down to a rattle for about 100 miles but, driving into work, the loosey goosey rumble of doom returned when I hit a bump, like the axles about to fall off. It is possible that the bolts have backed out due to under torquing but, assuming they are still nice and tight, what is the best course of action here that doesn't include buying a new axle? I think I need to work on a better spacer that will take up more space without a risk of binding up on the axle.

I do understand the frustrations from a swap. I had never changed the oil in a car before attempting an engine swap last february; I could have bought a few brand new trucks with the number of man hours spent on that. I do not understand how your timing was effected by the transmission swap; I thought the flywheel only went on one way. I do know how frustrating it is but you're so close if all you have to do is set the timing. There are a few good writeups about it on this site.

As previously suggested I would pop the intake tube off and spray carb cleaner or similar to see if it will start. If it doesn't start and you're sure its sparking and timed, then it's your cps or flywheel.

I have a '14 WK2. It has the 8sp Auto so I can't comment personally on the 5sp auto in 11-13 era but I am thrilled with mine so far (19k trouble free miles). I'm not aware of any big issues with the 3.6 and 5sp. I'm sure you know it has a shared platform as the Merc ML (which I think is a good thing) and it drives with an air of refinement that I think fits the upmarket pedigree. I probably wouldn't get the air suspension that is offered in the Overland if you can help it; probably more trouble with higher miles and expensive to fix.

If you're not getting much heat, a quick flush of the heater core valve made a big difference for me. I took some CLR, water, and an air compressor to blow it out from the small tube on thermostat and the tube that comes out of the water pump; I went backwards and forwards through the HC and got a lot of gunk out. My heat works pretty great now. here's a good video

Luk

You could jack up each side and grab the tire, try to enduce 'play' in the bearing. If it's making that kind of racket, you might be able to feel bearing play. just a thought.

Crash, I saw the same thing a couple months ago and got briefly excited. It's JCW's error to list them as being compatible with an MJ.

I listened to the video, I was hearing more of a gurble sound. It is a head scratcher that it persisted after you swapped out your drive line.

Thanks for all the recos, and maybe this will be helpful for others who are shopping, but I am happy with what I already purchased, which was the V8 ZJ stuff.

Is it that kind of gurble gurble sound? Assuming your front axle is solid and not CAD, how about dropping your front drive shaft to eliminate the pinion bearings?

I could not recreate it with a wheel in the air but I could make it worse by driving and turning the wheel in a curve where more weight was put on one wheel.

Sounds like a front wheel bearing. I had one that was bad and it sounded like two pieces of sheet metal grinding together. I replaced only the front hubs and sound went away. There's also a chance it could be your front pinion bearing but mine made more of a whaling noise and would only make it above about 30mph. The wheel bearing grind was at about any speed

Currently bid to $7k. This is encouraging. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Comanche-/281831461686?forcerrptr=true&hash=item419e76d336:g:A64AAOSwl9BWIugS&item=281831461686