INjake89mj

Needing a pair, what are you asking for them? thanks

Needing the stub shafts for a Dana 30/44 with the bigger 297/760 U joints. Believe to be 97 and up Cherokees, or 91 and up if equipped with ABS. Thanks!

haha nope not in this truck! This is the closest thing I could find in my catalog. also found this while I was searching! Pretty cool.

:thumbsup:

The ADDCO bar has a crappy mounting system on the SWB MJs - it uses "L" brackets on the upper shock studs to mount. I know guys who have them and are less than happy to put it mildly. Thanks for the input!

I have an Addco sway bar for an old body style Dakota that I plan to use on the rear. I wonder if the bar is forward facing because it would interfere with the add on shocks? I have some old "mini truck" accessory catalogs at home. I'm going to look and see if I can't see anything similar tonight, maybe get a manufacturer name.

Their is no proof that I can see that shows that this had a topper or camper shell. No holes in bed rails, no scratches in paint, no clamp marks. It does not have a hitch either, just ball on factory step bumper. Doubt it was installed for weight factor. If i had to guess, I'd say the previous owner was trying to get it to handle, which I find way cool! I will keep rear sway bar on it, but might not be the current one. like this...

The front sway bar is made by Quickor. They went out of business in the early 90's. They were supposedly the ones who designed them for the jeep motorsports teams, or so I've read...

It does not appear to have been lowered. I do not have a good side profile shot of it on all 4's to post. I am going to remove all the aftermarket stuff, other than the rear sway bar, and add a stock overload.

Never seen anything like this...any insight? I'm more than likely going to go back to original style rear suspension, but this has me curious. The Tokico Shock sticker would lead you to believe that the PO used that brand shocks, but the rear are Gabriel's and the horizontal rear shocks are Rancho's. Maybe the kit was made by Tokico?

black https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-49277-Turn-Signal-Lever/dp/B001QU9NC4/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1482334209&sr=1-1&keywords=Dorman+49277+Turn+Signal+Lever chrome https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-HELP-49273-Signal-Lever/dp/B000CO94C4/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1482334209&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=Dorman+49277+Turn+Signal+Lever

:rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf:

Just the TJ Rubicon axles used the larger 7/16" ring gear bolts. Should have been more clear.

http://clubs.hemmings.com/potomacramblers/Tech%20Tips%20pdf_img/trak-lok_diff_5313-3.pdf another member led me to this when I was regearing mine, hope it helps!

Yes, you can use a thick cut gear and keep your LS carrier. I just did this to mine a couple weeks ago. I went with Yukon gears as well. Watch out though, some say thick cut TJ gears, because they use bigger ring gear bolts. you can use these, but will require bigger bolts and drilling out your carrier. :thumbsup:

my pioneer had already been updated to the 97+ interior when I bought it. But it had the 1 piece late model windows in what I always assumed to be the original doors. Not sure how it was done. Miss that truck... :cry:

:yeah that:

minus welding on perches and running the hard lines, I'm calling it done. 4.10 gears, all new bearings and seals, and new brakes. Now to start gathering parts for the front axle! It's patiently waiting...

the rubicon diff requires 5psi. The best and safest way I see to do this is with the factory pump. I thought about running an on board air setup and just regulate 5psi line to the locker, but if the regulator malfunctions or isn't accurate, It would blow the bladder in the locker. I think I would be money ahead to just run the OEM pump. I could run it open. The indicator switch screws into the side of the housing, so I would need that to keep out debris. Their is no way to use a plug of any kind by looking at the hole. The wheel bearings changed in 99 on the dana 30's. Should I run the newer stuff with this axle? I would just assume run the older more abundant parts, and I'm more familiar with them anyway. I haven't had time to look at the driveshaft situation. But I know the Dana 44 uses 1330 yoke and the 30 uses 1310 yoke? I have the drive shaft from the wrangler this was pulled from. Can a guy pull the drive shafts apart at the slip and use the wrangler axle side of DS and the comanche drivers side? That would eliminate the need for a custom shaft. Kind of worried about length too... Does anybody have a TJ rubicon? I would like a picture of the air fitting. My axle is missing this. There is 2 holes on the diff housing, 1 is threaded for the sensor. the other is just 1/8th" or so hole thats where I assume the air line goes through. If this is the case is there not a breather line? I can't seem to find the info online.

So I bought a front Dana 44 out of a TJ off Craigslist the other day. I only gave $250 for it, not $1200 or whatever high price they are bringing on eBay. But I have a few questions I need answered before I make the decision to keep it or sell it. I know that if I were building this jeep for mainly off road purposes that I would be money ahead to build a HP30. But my jeep is going to be used mainly as a woods truck, cutting fire wood, that sort of stuff. I won't break this axle nor a stock 30. The axles that I was going to put under it are both 3.55 gears and with 32" tires I would like to run 4.10's, which the rubi axle has. I don't NEED a selectable locker, but I don't think I would ever regret having one. If I sell it and get $500 profit, that's not enough to regear both my D30 and D44. Plus the D30 needs ball joints and axle u-joints(the rubi axle is good to go) If I keep it I have to buy the stock air source for locker ($160) and the switch($50), misc wiring/air line, Regear my dana 44 ($300ish), possible driveshaft modification? The Rubi axle is missing knuckles, hub bearings, brakes, and stub shafts. Shouldn't I be able to use everything off of a 98 D30? Will I need to have a driveshaft made? I'm pretty sure the yoke(1330) is different than on a D30, but I haven't verified. Will it need to be longer because of low pinion? I know this may seem like I'm just rambling on, but I respect your guy's opinion and need help weighing out my options. Again, I know the argument about using this axle vs a HP30, but that argument on strength does not apply in this situation. Thanks!

And then this happened..... Dana 44 front from TJ Rubicon....4.10 gears, factory locker, terreflex cover...$250 :banana: It is missing the knuckles, stub shafts, which i have on a 98 dana 30 need for axle: locker engagement sensor :50$ oem air pump for locker : 150$ Air fitting: 50$ the housing has 2 holes in it, 1 is threaded for the sensor, the other is a smaller hole i'm assuming for the air line, which is not there. I don't know where the axle vents from? Shouldn't it have an axle vent line and locker air supply line? I haven't dug into it to far, but I need to be getting it figured out. Now that I have this axle, I have to regear my rear 44, which I think I'll get along better with the 410's over 3.55's. But this has cut into my budget pretty good. I'll have to hold off on the WJ knuckle and steering upgrade for a while...but I think this axle is worth the wait. until next time...

Well I took the axle to work and used the Steam Genie pressure washer to get all the grease off. Worked great. Brought it home, sand blasted, primed, and painted! Turned out pretty good. Wish it wasn't so pitted. The inside of the backing plates will get painted as well, just don't want to take the brakes off until i'm ready to replace them. sorry for the small pictures...

happened to drive by a local repair shop and saw it setting on the lot! We pulled in to check it out, guys said its there for engine replacement (2.8L). Matthew left a CC card with his number on the back. I imagine that he'll replace engine, but if not maybe he will call us. Its definitely a repaint with a mediocre prep job, but looks good from a short distance. I shouldn't say much cause it looks a lot better than either of mine! Is this door decal on all 86's? Only 82,000 on the clock. Sorry for the small pictures, I don't know what happened.

So the plan for now is run it. I ordered thick cut gears for my rear 44 to match the 4.10's in the front. Now I'm getting confused on what to do with the missing knuckle/stub shaft issue. Their is is a split for wheel bearing assemblies in 99. That axle would have had the later style of hubs and brakes. Can I still use the pre-99 brakes on the rubi axle? I have a dana 30 from a 98 that I could rob the stub shafts and knuckles off of. Does the stub shaft change with hub? The hub difference looks like the distance from knuckle to wheel mounting face are different...is this going to change track width? I'm probably just overthinking this, but I would rather order once and be done... I had planned a WJ knuckle swap for the 30, but the regear has cut into my funds, so for now I gotta run all original stuff.

Yea, I felt bad because the guy didn't know what he had, but at the same time he got it for free and he'll never know any different. I couldn't put a selectable locker in the Dana 30 for 250$...