Co-MAAAN-cheee

Thanks @DesertRat1991, The carrier and the t plates are identical to Dana. I bought a posi clutch pack.

My 1988 has a Dana 44. A while back a shop replaced my diff. The clutches have failed. There is a thin shim in either side that's damaged. I'm struggling to identify the correct parts to buy. The diff has something I'm pretty sure is called Cross shaft preload assembly. There are two t shaped plates that sit between the spider gears with 4 stiff springs. When I took the clutch packs out there were only 4 rings with ears and there was just a flat washer, not the spring washer. whereas every kit I see shows an extra tabbed disk with a hole in on of the tabs. Chatgpt suggests I just need to order a common clutch kit. Does anyone know what I'm talking about?

After some driving the steering is off center again and sloppy. I'm thinking that this summer I'll replace the steering components, maybe even the steering box. Get it aligned and see if it gets better. It's something I've been wanting to do anyway.

I had the rear diff profesh replaced years ago. I remember they ordered the wrong one and gave me the upgrade. I vaguely recall them saying possi, but I don't have receipts. I don't drive her much, and other then annoying me, it doesn't affect drivability. I might wait and see if it gets worse.

Thanks. I checked and it was toe out about .4". And the steering wheel was off center. I spend several hours messing around with alignment. Going way too far in various directions. Handling like $#!&, steering full off in the other direction. The problem got worse. I eventually got toe in a better place and steering wheel centered. I'm really starting to think I have a bad diff in front of back.

My do rub at full lock. But that's not it. It definitely tire on pavement.

I only notice it at very slow speed. Mostly just at take off.

My 88 MJ has developed a symptom. It seems similar to what happens when you're turning on dry pavement in four-wheel drive, but it's not anywhere near back. I don't so much get a hopping as I can hear a tire scrape as if I'm kicking off too quick on gravel. I took it to a shop and they told me it was ball joints $2,000 later problems still exist. I carefully checked the front axle even removing the cad and locking the front axle in two-wheel drive. No change in the symptoms. It happens just as you're starting up in in a left-hand turn. From in the cab it sounds like it's coming from the front but gosh it's hard to tell. I have a couple of theories at the moment. One is something's wrong with the front suspension causing some toe out or there's some problem with the rear diff causing a slight bit of binding. Anyone deal with this exact issue or would you check next?

Thanks everyone.

I did a smoke test and found a couple of cracks in vacuum lines. One at the TB and another near the air box. They were barely perceptible. The TB, especially the IAC, were extremely dirty. The IAC was so caked with hardened oil I don't think any air was getting past it. I cleaned it up and patched the vacuum lines and she is purring like a kitten. I ordered new vacuum lines and a new IAC and will finish the job tomorrow. A couple of years ago I rechecked and repaired all the grounds, and I cleaned and treated every electrical connection with deoxIT. I'm thinking I'll follow more of Cruisers tips to ensure all the sensors are in spec.

I'm so sad to hear that. Thank you for letting me know. He was such a great guy. And thanks, I totally forgot about the vacuum at the cad. I'll smoke the vacuum system first. I think I'll clean the TB regardless, its due

Hey @cruiser54, It been a while. Remember me? I wrote an addendum to your c101 delete. Anyway, My air filter was saturated with oil and the engine bay was filthy. I took her to the car wash and thoroughly cleaned it. Then I did an oil change and added one of those cheap oil catch cans. I also updated the headlights to LED. Installed the relays years ago. Everything was working fine for a couple of weeks. Drove it exclusively during that time. A couple of days ago I had new tires installed. When it came back from the tire shop it started fast idle. What? I'm assuming it's just a coincidence, but maybe the that guys bumped a vacuum hose. I unplugged the TPS and the idle dropped to normal. Plugged it back in and it held. Turn her off and back on, fast idle again. I'm planning on doing a smoke test to eliminate a vacuum leak. Tempted to remove the TB for a good clean and maybe just replace the TPS. Neither have been done in over 10 years. Where would you start? Why do you think it started after a tire change? Appreciate you, you are my jeep hero. Dave

@cruiser54 It's been 8 years since I finished my truck. Still running strong with the original drive train. Needs new paint and been thinking about going a different direction. Maybe convert to electric. Are you still around. I sure appreciated all your help. Thanks again.

I have a 1988 with 4.0 and auto trans. 140k miles. No modifications. I've had it for several years. I don't put a lot of miles on her. Did pretty much all of cruser54s tips. Even the c101 delete. I think I replaced almost every sensor. She's been running great for 2 years. For the past few months the engine dies without warning. Always happens while driving. Usually at slow speed in a parking lot. No rough running or any other symptoms. Just turns off. It'll start right back up every time then won't happen again for days or weeks. I think it might be happen while braking, but, its always a panic moment so not certain. I have noticed a loud noise coming from the fuel pump in hot weather. The engine has that common rough sound at idle. most think its a bad lifter, but, nothing has changed related to that since I bought it. Ideas for What should I check first?

The cable broke on mine yesterday. here's how I fixed it. This procedure replaces the cable with a piece of coat hanger wire about 7 inches long. Requires a hack saw, Drill bit slightly bigger than the coat hanger wire, needle noes pliers. 1. Remove the t-handle from the bracket 2. Remove any remaining cable from the t-bar and discard 3. Drill a hole through the square rod on the t-handle about 1/4 inch from the end. 4. Cut the plastic housing (looks like a space ship) about 1/4 inch from the L bracket (where the two screws go in) with a hack saw. 5. Remove the cable sleeve retaining the bulb end of cable sleeve, then widen the hole in the bulb end with the drill bit. 6. Insert the square rod through the plastic bracket then fish about one inch of hanger wire through the hole and twist to secure it in place. 7. fish the wire through the old bulb end 8. install this new assembly into the truck taking care to fish the wire through the hole in the lever and seat the bulb end into it's metal bracket 9. Twist the wire to secure it onto the lever 10. Might require a little bending to ensure it moves smoothly Working great in my truck. Took me less than an hour.

I have a 88. I recently replaced the bulb sockets for the turn signals. After I noticed that when my flashers are on the back light on the stereo led dims in unison. then a couple of days ago I was using the tape deck while charging my phone from the lighter and the radio fuse (it was 15amp) burned out. I did all of cruzers electrical stuff last year except for the connector block under the air box. C101 elimination, new ground under dash, everything. When I replaced the bulb sockets I cleaned the connector under the air box. Honestly I'm not certain the dimming wasn't happening before I worked on the lights. I'd sure appreciate some advice on what to check. I'm no pro, but, I have a multi meter and know how to solder. I'm tempted to run a ground just for the radio and put the lighter on its own fuse. Ideas?

I did mine like cruizer, the first photo. I was soaking my air filter with oil. After the mod I just get a very slight bit of oil. My engine has 135k miles. I'm sure it will need to be rebuilt soon, maybe around 220k miles. ;)

Google steelman chassis ear. I bought ste6600. It has 6 alligator clips with microphones you can attach all around your vehicle and listen to them while driving. I have 4 cars and have accurately located several noises. Awesome tool.

I'd like to see that to

This will be my final post on this. Got my truck back from the shop and its running great. I'm sure that many of you reading this aren't prepared and/or willing to complete a total rebuild of a rear axle and therefore need to hire a professional. For me I've found that doing lots of research online and engaging in a thoughtful conversation with my trusted shop leads to many successes. Owning and operating an auto shop for 20 years doesn't require a person to be dishonest or incompetent and knowing the person in your community more often than not ensures honest dealing. A person wouldn't last long in business repeatedly cheating their neighbors. Certainly be sure to research the shop, ask around, Google them, sign up for angies list. Also, as to rebuilding a Dana35. Wikipedia says this about the Dana 35h It is "reliable in day-to-day street use, but notoriously the opposite when worked hard." My father runs Dana 35 in his wrangler and had been v off roading for years, and he know lots of folks in Yuma, az off roading with Dana 35. If keeping your truck original is important to you and/or your aren't going to push it hard there's nothing wrong with Dana 35.

Not taking it personally. I too hope this serves a greater audience. Not everyone shares the same goals.

Jeep Driver: I think I understand where you are coming from. I'm coming from a different set of values and experience. Since you've invested so much time to help me understand your perspective I thought I would take a moment to share as best I can. I've enjoyed working on my truck, but, I enjoying having and driving it more. I bought it to restore to what I call "Good from a far, but, far from good" street driver. I have spend over $13K so far and I couldn't sell it for $5K. I'm not worried about the loss of capital/equity. I paid cash that I could afford. However, I'm not going to buy the best of the best and I'm patiently repairing things as they come up and doing it as thoughtfully as I can. I'm not going to take it off road. It's just too pretty for that. Next, I will always purchase parts and labor from a local company unless I have no other option. I care about my community and my neighbors and feel I have an obligation to support them through my purchasing. Even if it might cost a bit more. You seem very concerned about trust and care, and you suggest that Bill isn't trustworthy and lacks expertise. I going to bet that the guy taking your order over the internet cares less than Bill at Harlow Auto Repair, not to mention Bill knows I know where he lives. If he doesn't care about me I'm betting he cares about his reputations.

Thanks for the insight. I'll show him this post and ask him to provide better details. I will say, I went to high school with the manager, Bill. He's always been a decent guy. He's my neighbor. And the shop has been there for years and has a good rep. Bill isn't as technical as his mechanics, I notice he often talks in layman's terms. I asked him to keep the cost down. I have no interest in off road and Will use my 97 xj in the rare Snow fall here in Seattle. The stock diff lasted 26 years. Based on previous posts, I'm thinking $1,300 is a decent deal for parts and labor for an end to end rebuilt on the rear axle, even if they are providing the least expensive option. Last word, i work for an IT consulting company. We won't even do work for customers that won't buy the product from us. We can't hit our profitability goals on labor alone. I'd rather pay a bit more and know that Bill and his crew can make a decent living. Jeepdriver seems pretty learned, I'm right in his advice, price wise.

Fyi the shop quoted me $1,300 parts and labor to completely rebuilt my Dana 35 axle with limited slip. $1,500 with posi. Brakes, all bearings, Carrier. I gave the go ahead on the $1,300.