landlubber

After a few years of sitting I finally stripped this thing down and scrapped it this past week. Sad day but boy she was rusty, gotta unload some parts now.

I got it from a cherokee I saw at the junk yard, fit perfectly and held up well to canoes and such. It was a yakima iirc.

Thanks, I still have it sitting around. Every now and then i go and pull some more parts off it to use. I really miss driving it.

Thanks for the info. seems to be working for now. I cleared the codes and back down to 12, 33, 55.

It was acting up significantly more than normal when I drove it up to the barn - and it did backfire if you layed into the gas pedal when it was sputtering/missing. all the cps I have are renix era, I pulled it out anyways and cleaned it. I also pulled apart the distributor and blew it out with compressed air, cleaned a fair amount of corrosion off the "pulse ring" and double checked timing. it seems to work now, It may just be toying with me, drove home fine though. The distributor seemed to have a lot more play in it than I am used to, maybe 10 degrees of slop at the tip of the rotor - is that normal?

I should mention that it does not backfire when it cuts in and out. Also it always starts fine and runs fine more often than not. I checked for codes but I think I created some of them, I will go and check it again. edit: The only codes it pulled were ones caused by me testing things. 12 - battery disconnected (just got a new one) 13 - map sensor 33 - a/c removed 55 I have a few spare cps' kicking around. Worth it to swap one in just to see if it helps?

I have a 1991 comanche 4.0l that I have been driving around with no drivability issues since I got it, but the last few days it has developed some sort of misfire. It feels like someone is turning the key on and off, or like a revlimiter or a lope tune even. It will do it at idle, revved up, driving around. Seems to be mostly random but if you rev it up a little and snap off the gas it seems to initiate it. I am lost at this point. I replaced the fuel filter and it has very new cap/rotor/wires. fuel pressure is 30ish/idle and 40ish/vac line off regulator. Any ideas or input is appreciated.

I haven't been on here in a while but figured I would update this thread. This comanche has been sitting for a while now, it was getting very rusty in some important areas. Where the leaf spring mounts to the "frame" rail let go when I was driving it last year. It was pretty soft there and by the rear shocks and a few spots under the cab. I had already bought another (#3) one and was planning on fixing that up and DD'ing it except for the winter. So I just pulled the engine from the camo one and put it in that. (new comanche needed a cam and lifters at least - po said it had burned valves also). one of the last pics I had of it when it was on the road and how it has been sitting. Not sure what I am going to do with it yet.

I put new lifters in the new comanche this past week, got it registered and started driving it today. its nice to have one where mostly everything works. also picked this D44 up last weekend. found at local jy.

Had this week off from school, did a good amount of offroading. Didnt break anything terrible, only caved in the B pillar a little bit on the passenger side (dangers of no-doors wheeling). Had fun though, a good spring break.

This past weekend I decided to see about my exhaust leak, and got in the zone and also took off the front fender flares and trimmed the (rusty) fenders and pulled out the swaybar. And the pile of parts left over. Gotta see about a few more things maybe this weekend. Feels good to work on it again.

31's on a 3" rancho lift. The back sits up a little higher than in the picture, there was axles in the bed when I took it.

I got another friend for my other MJ's, a nice clean '91

Got some poly control arm bushings for the comanche, getting tired of the clunking and such. http://www.quadratec.com/products/76158_84X_PG.htm Started putting them in today, what a pain, only managed to get one of the uppers in before I had to call it and put it all together and head home. does anyone know of any place to get the sleeves for the bushings? the process would be at least twice as fast if I had fresh sleeves to press the new bushings into as opposed to pressing the old bushings out and then the new ones in.

I tested the TPS, it has .67 volts at idle, and 4.3 volts (iirc) at WOT, would that be enough to kill power? Also, I pulled the floor mat and I got another few tenths on the meter.

there is no cat, and no possums either, haha. i'll test the pressure. Kinda sucks because it is supposed to have a newer pump. it kicked the bucket once driving and I rolled into a chain shop and had them fix it because it was there, way too much money. they said the wiring was like spaghetti, thanks the po for that. I wonder if they even put a new pump in.

none of the shops around here rent out any fuel pressure testers, so its down to one of these. http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsea ... e%20tester another interesting symptom to note, when driving normally it seems to lose power also. If I am in say 3rd gear with 60% throttle accelerating up a hill normally, it will feel like it is going 60% power, then suddenly, with no adjustment in the throttle, will drop to maybe 30 or 40% power. It has been doing this quite a bit recently, not necessarily on hills, or accelerating hard at all.

new fuel filter also, had a vacuum gauge on it and it seemed normal. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge but will look into that.

Hello all, I have been having problems for a while now with my engine, seems to be the worst when its under full load (WOT) or when it is cold in the morning just leaving my driveway. It seems like the throttle is ineffective when starting off in the morning, like you put it down almost an inch i'd say and it doesn't seem to do much. And say i do a few gear WOT pull from a light or something, something is not right, it goes fine till maybe 3ish, then it feels like its bogging out or definitely losing power in some fashion. It might be worth mentioning that is seems to be back-firing more than usual recently, when downshifting and down hills off the gas. It has a newer o2, within the last yearish New MAP sensor, seemed to help a little I started testing the tps, but nothing definite yet, i'm leaning towards it being the tps no vacuum leaks that I can tell, it idles same as usual The egr sheared a hose when I was putting my new engine in a few weeks ago, but I believe I plugged everything up. and finally, it was doing this with the old stock renix engine, I recently put a 95 engine in and the problem seems to be exaggerated. If nothing else, it is very annoying, I wanted to get some opinions before I start throwing parts at it. hopefully one of you can provide some insight. thanks in advance.

I was impressed by the output from the LED's. I bought the cheapest ones I could find on ebay, If you opt for a more pricey set it would probably be better. I would say it increased my output by 4 or 5 times at the least, and the field of view is much wider and higher than before, definitely a recommended install.

forgot to load up a few pics, here is the engine in. everything seems to be dandy as far as major problems. Just need to weld up the exhaust and figure out why it is not running 100% right, i'm thinking maybe tps.

Well, I started last sunday night, got the driveline pulled monday morning around 2ish. Got right to swapping everything from the 88 block to the 95 block, lots of no sleep. Got it all back together and back in the comanche on wednesday. had to call it early on tues and thursday, went up to lake winnipesaukee on friday, and didn't make any progress saturday. This past sunday I got most everything else buttoned up, except for a few little things, which I polished off today. It starts and runs and drives, not running just right though, still diagnosing why.

well I got everything pulled and swapped over and put back in. finished off the last little bits today and started her up, runs and drives. it seems like it is running rich though, any ideas? It has a new O2 sensor (right around 1 year ago) Just picked up some fuel injector cleaner and a map sensor, haven't put in yet. it did seem to run a bit rich with the old engine when it was cold in the morning or if I had it floored higher up in the revs.

I'm a bit concerned about setting the engines to tdc, i understand for the most part the theory, but I have never done it. On a side note, got the driveline all pulled this evening/night.

Everything seems pretty straightforward so far. have not actually started the swap yet, just getting parts, maybe tonight though. The biggest thing I can think of now is what sort of procedure to make sure than the new engine with the old dizzy has the proper timing and will run. Setting both engines at TDC is the best way to make this work?