benjy_26

As far strength and size goes, the Dana 20 is a fantastic case.IIRC, Jeep used them in a lot of FSJ's up to and including the J4000 trucks. The low rangr is only 2:1, but if you're not rock crawling, it should'nt be a problem. You may have to mod thr TH400's output shaft to get the two units to mate. I'm not to clear on the details. I had a T18/D20 combo for a long time in a J10 with a 4.2, and it was great. Small, light, and tough.

A 700R4 from 87 onwards is rated at 450ft-lbs. That's assuming it's in brand new condition, pulling small-ish tires, and not seeing any abuse (towing, off roading, racing). Also, keep in mind that auto trannys develop their holding power through fluid pressure. If he's getting 300ft-lbs at 1000 rpm, the 700R4 might not have enough pressure on the clutches to holdbup to the torque. I still say 4L80E. Get a stand aline for the tranny, or, if you want to be bulletfproof and don't need overdrive, a THM400 or SM420 would be the way to go.

FF 14 is MUCH stronger, I agree. The SF can handle quite a bit of punishment, though. I only mentioned the SF due to thw tire size he plans on using. I have 37's on my K5 with a healthy 400 SB and the SF14 has no issues with that set up. I think he'd be dragging the hell out of that FF14 with tires that small.

ZJ Upcountry coils CJ7 Copper radiator ZJ Trackbar and trackbar bracket AMC V8 PCV valve grommet Chevy Truck brake hoses w

:needpics: lol pics coming soon. BTW, I made a mistake. I was thinking of my ZJ when I mentioned the 32's. The MJ has a set of 31's. ZJ sports a set of Canyons and the MJ has the Razors.

If it makes you guys feel better, my 93 MR2 turbo has HUGE, adjustable sway bars front and rear.

Thanks for all of your concern, everyone.... but I'll continue to drive all my jeeps, both on and off the road, with out a sway bar if I so choose. I've driven this way for years, it works for me and the way I tune my suspension, and I can drive well enough that I've never said to myself : " Gee, I really wish I had my sway bar."

Not until after I posted, unfortunately. I was looking up info on tranny's and this one popped up. Saw the dates after I pulled the trigger. Sorry.

Different strokes, I suppose. Keep in mind, even with the sway bars attached, VW Bugs are VERY easy to roll over at speed. Doesnt seem lkke a very good suspension design to me.

If it's a Chebby pattern, I'd make my life easy and install a 4L80E and a Chevy passenger side t-case(NP205 would be awesome). Add a D44HD in the front and a semi-floating 14 bolt in the rear and you get a durable, cheap to maintain drive train. The full width axles might be tricky to adapt to a MJ and would look a bit weird, though.

I got MotoRad failsafes for my 2.5 MJ and 4.0 X and ZJ at Oreilley. Didn't know tbose werr OEM now, but they do work nicely.

A world-class T5 or a Tremec T56 *should* bolt up to a 4.0 using the AMC Gen III V8 adapter parts. I'm not sure how much work would be involved, but seei g as how those V8's and the Jeep inline 6 share a bolt pattern, it seems feasable and should get you quicker, closer shifts than the AX tranny. Will those trannies mate to a transfer case? I honestly don't know.

A properly tuned and designed suspension that takes into account a vehicle's center of gravity, roll center, and weight transfer characteristics doesn't really need sway bars. On a race car, maybe, if only to be able to tune over and understeer characteristics. On a normal street car? No need.

Check the bushings in your springs and shackles as well. If they're old, rotten, and soft, they may be deflecting more than they should. Good quality, gas charged shocks should also help.

You can run 31x10.50-15s on a stock MJ with no lift. I'm running 31s on my stock 1988 XJ with no lift, and the MJ has larger wheel wells in the rear. So.... I left the rear end alone, just installed a set of longer shocks and upgraded the bushings in the springs. I also lifted the front end a bit over 3 inches from where the old, saggy 2wd springs held the nose. It fits the 32" BFG KO's on 15x8 MB Razors very well and has a nice "Arizona" rake. Thanks, all.

Nice. Never been called stupid by a moderator before. Way to stay classy. I never said this vehicle is my daily. FWIW, I've run my 2wd ZJ on and off roaf with a locked 8.8 in the back, the springs I mentioned, Bilstein remote reservoir shocks, 32" BFG KM2's, and.... no sway bars both on and off road all over the west Texas and Southern New Mexico area. I've had ZERO issues with that set up. It's very comfortable around town and on long trips and is VERY stable in the dunes and while bombing down desert roads and washes at speed. BTW, I removed the shocks when I had the front beam hanging in the air, and found the cause of the limited droop. The bolts holding thr control arms to the body seemed to have been overtightened, and the bushings seemed to have seized. A few cans of PB Blaster and much swearing later.... my MJ is now lifted 3" over what it was before, is now sporting new Energy Suspensio bushings in the control arms, and is sporting a set of 31" BFG KO's on 15x8 aftermarket wheels.

:)My sway bar is in the wastebasket... :)

Might be the lack of weight in the bed. I helped a buddy install a Ford 8.8 out of an explorer with rear disc brakes into his 96 xj. Everything was straightforward. Used the stock prop valve and it works very well.

Just wondering if anyone here has done this. I am in the process of installing ZJ upcountry coils in the front of my 1987 2.5, and have run into some weird stuff. For example, my trackbar won't fit anymore, and even at full droop, my coils are still firmly in place, unlike my 94 2wd ZJ. That Heep has a set of 1" OMR coils and a pair of 3/4" spacers, and when flexed out, the coils come loose. Shouldn't the ZJ and MJ front end be essentially the same? Do ZJ controk arms and track bars have a substantial difference to the stuff under my MJ?

Awesome. Thanks guys!

Nice stance! Thanks a bunch, everyone. I'll do a bit of experimenting, and tell y'all what I find. BTW, how do you post pics on here?

Hello everyone. I recently purchased a 2.5l 1987 Comanche, and while looking for infoo, I found this place. Great forum, thanks to all who participate. I was wondering: how does one go about posting pics here?

Are you 4wd or 2wd. Would it make a difference?

I have a 2wd. The 235's that are on there now look pretty cramped. :-\

Hi evrerybody. I recently acquired a 1987 MJ 2WD. I plan on converting it to 4wd and doing other mods to it, but the rear end threw me off. Coming from ZJ's and XJ's, I can pretty much figure out the front suspension and how to lift it. The SUA rear is new to me, though. I want to stuff 31's under this truck, and have a nice, stable ride both on and off road. I also would like to keep the fenders as is, without cutting (first time for one of my jeeps!). I know that going SOA will net me a big gain in lift, but I would like to keep things as low as possible while still stuffing the 31's. I was thinking ZJ upcountry coils and a BB in the front and a bastard pack in the rear, but I don't know what would be a good donor vehicle. I've heard some people say that S10, Dakota, and F150's will work. Which of these would give me 2.5-3" of lift, decent cargo capacity, and a smoother ride with a decent amount of flex off road. This vehicle will mainly be used to haul stuff, drive on the highway, and do some desert road bombing. Thanks in advance for your help!