Blaine

yea i didnt know the part number would cross reference to their web site, i typed make model and year and hit exhaust system and no brackets came up, but yes i found when i did the part number thank you

couldnt find it

no i need the bracket the slides into the rubber piece, but as i re-read through this there is one problem, i don't have the flange on the catalytic converter, the flange rotted so i cut it off and welded an adapter onto it. so i need one with an actual exhaust clamp on it

i typed in the part number and nothing came up, so as of right now I'm looking to buy this anywhere else i could get it

i suppose i don't need a drop pitman arm seeing its not mentioned

any recommendations for the question above?

alrighty, thanks a bunch, would you recommend the high angle 1310 u joints and are these available at any part store or is it online?

Zack this why i don't want the CV or double cardon shaft. better pic of what i don't want in post # 22 Regarding premature bearing wear would not be an issue. There are baffles and slingers inside the diff that will lube it even at that angle. When it's at that angle it is a trick to filling it as you still need to put the same volume of oil as before, so a hill is really nice so you can get the nose of the vehicle down. Otherwise you can get a new rear diff cover with a higher fill plug. You can obtain a new longer SY from many places. A bit of research and you'll find ones you can get from a junk yard, or you can get a new one off ebay or from tom woods. I did eventually go sye after doing same thing you're doing. I however did not got with a double cardone shaft as I did not want to re-cut and weld my perches. And was not going to use shims as I didnt want more lift. I went sye because I was with a buddy in an xj that managed to pull his driveline from his transfercase, it broke when spinning, dumped all his fluid and we had to be towed because he couldn't run it in fwd as the rear of the transfercase was wide open with the yoke out. well if there is one to be had, how much longer would it need to be, and if i were to look in a junkyard what vehicles come with longer SY that will fit into the 231 t-case and have same u-joints? and what about a GM long slip yoke, saw that on a thread here, will that fit

ok cool sounds easy enough, like i said been looking around, do i need to jack the rear end of my truck up so the nose is down? and the bottle is always full?

i take the upper rad hose off the the t-stat housing and pour it in that way. so do i let my truck idle and keep filling the bottle till it stops taking coolant, how does pulling the CTS bleed the air out of the head? anyone got step by step instructions on how to do this. not sure on the exact steps to take. (like do i fill the bottle, run the truck, check coolant level and pull coolant temp sensor). this is what I'm unsure of. :dunno: I'm searching around and not a whole lot is for the closed system, many for the open though, doesnt help

okay so after i start and let in run for a sec. or right after i fill the system. and what am I'm looking for to know that it has been bled properly?

sorry if i sound stupid, but how do you bleed the head

Thats ecactly what I was trying to say earlier This is what i meant i have the closed system, so with deleting the valve and running threw my bottle what would be the proper filling technique

to keep stock driveshaft and do this SOA how much longer would the new SY need to be?

well i know how i want to route it, pretty much was explained earlier, but how would i go about filling the system. my plan is to run t-stat hose to upper inlet on my bottle, run hose from lower outlet of bottle to heater core, and the core back to w-pump. so with this mod would i just fill the radiator, or do i fill the bottle as well?

oh duh, thanks for the input i guess ill stick with what was mentioned earlier in this thread and run through my OEM jug. and to properly fill my system after this mod, would i fill the rad. and my jug or leave jug empty for the expansion?

Sorry to bring this up again, but i don't know if anyone answered this: how come i can't just run the hoses direct to the core like above, without running a return bottle?

if i kept the original mirror door brackets are there mirrors i could buy and do they come with the posts? i looked online and the mirror door brackets from other vehicles don't use the same bolt pattern and i don't want to drill holes in my door.

awesome if you could post a pic that would be great. on my driver side mirror one of the screws that hold the mirror stiff on the post snapped up inside the mirror and it won't screw out and i don't know if i can replace that unit in the mirror, figured i would need a whole new one. passenger side the post where it mounts to the door bracket stripped the slots that hold it still so it can move 360 deg. around and likes to blind oncoming traffic. so i may need a door bracket as well. basically i was wondering for in the future when i need to replace theses parts again where i could find just the replacement mirrors that would bolt right up to my door bracket.

i have the tow package mirrors on my truck, and both mirrors eventually need to be replaced and i was wondering where i could get them?

ok so i can do this lift and NOT have my pumpkin up in the air, or at least not to the degree in post 22. and with the SYE, would i need to lengthen my driveshaft?

Zack this why i don't want the CV or double cardon shaft. better pic of what i don't want in post # 22

funny i was thinking that. where would you buy a longer SY

this will fit in the stock SY driveshaft, how are they different then stock ujoint?

but i don't want my diff. pointing up in the air. in post 27 second pic. it seems it would cause the pionion bearing to fail faster seeing the lack of gear oil flowing to it