XxStirCrazedxX

:clapping: wahoo someone else from So.Oregon! now i don't feel so lonley :clapping: Good haul for the day...i live up here in the upper rouge (Shady Cove) and live behind a fishing shop...i see bloody boats all the time ;) this year i gave the fish a break and didnt get my tags, but damn right next year its ON!...hoping to buy a dirfter by summer time. :clapping: if you ever need help with the comanche let me know id be more then happy to help.

:mad: why must you live in CO, shipping would kill the deal for me :(

:agree:

So my brace is shot... is there a place we can buy them or should i try to find a good used one? there may be MJ in a yard 40miles away but havnt seen it, just rumored to be there TIA

ok, I figured it out...was a pink wire that was up under the dash, as i would press down on the ebrake the top arm? would cut in to the wire, didnt see it before because the stupid Buzzer block was in the way. Thanks for the help guys :-)

been watching that for some time now, no leaking... Crawled under the truck and followed the Ebrake cable to see if its pinching a wire some place and nothing...pulled the trim on the drivers side to see if something had been pinched and nothing... tomorrow I'm going to pull the bucket out and lift the carpet to check the 12-15 inches i can't see of the cable but really don't think its under there... got me baffled...its not electronic what so ever (other then the brake light switch that i removed) there shouldn't be power flowing threw the Ebrake assembly....everything is fine till i press on the ebrake foot petal. 1 click its fine 2 click pop its dead...put a mutilmeter in the fuse spot and I'm reading 14V when it would normally pop. AHHH I'm so frustrated :wall: :wall: :doh: :doh:

AHH got another one i can't finger out... 86 2.5L 5 speed Every time i apply the Ebrake my Brake light fuse pops...i unpluged the ebrake switch and still pops...it pops every time i get to the second click GRRRRRRRRRRRRr ok, checked the bulbs, checked for pinched wires, checked my ground behind tail light, checked for ANY wires around ebrake...everything looks good.. Any advise?

Thank you looks as if you drilled out spot welds, is that correct?

i know its been covered a million and 1/2 times, but can't seem to find the info I'm looking for. on top of the frame rail looks to 2 sheets of metal, can they be cut open to inspect/replace the top? I'm replacing my floor, and would like to replace/POR as much as possible. I'm not buying a floor pan, I'm just going to use some scrap steel :wrench:

So i figured it was time to start my build thread on the new Comanche, First it needed a name. So off to google i went only knowing 2 things, its a comanche from wyoming...after reading a bunch of Comanche Indian storys this one just stuck. Iron Jacket (Po-hebitsquash, Pro-he-bits-quash-a, Po-bish-e-quasho in Comanche) was a Comanche chieftain and medicine man whom the Comanche believed had the power to blow bullets aside with his breath. His name probably resulted from his habit of wearing a Spanish coat of mail into battle, which protected him from most light weapons fire. Plans for Iron jacket are: 4-5 inch lift with 33's Nothing fancy just a DD/Weekend trail rig. Pics will be coming soon :wrench:

its all yours bud :cheers:

i was just poking you with a stick pete... Cody, You don't need to extend any vac lines other then maybe your CAD lines with a lift, all your doing is moving your axles further away from the body.

Man talk about history in the making! Pete was wrong on something! yes i took a screen shot so you can't edit it now :clapping: :rotfl2: Anyways thanks guys, I'm sure i will have a few more parts come up that have me scratching my head :-)

I was thinking we could make this a ongoing post for myself and others to post up "What is this" type post. I'll start 87 Comanche 4.0/5 speed front of intake with a bunch of vacume lines...top 2 are broken and go nowhere driver side between air box and fender

First... WELCOME TO THE FORUMS! :jump: Second....don't forget to add your truck here ( viewforum.php?f=34 ) third...first thing you should do is clean up all the grounds, explained in this post ( viewtopic.php?f=2&t=33143 ) fourth...if its a Renix engine buy a CPS while you still can...even if you don't use it right now, you will have one for later. Also you said you had background in airplanes...happen to be a Piper Comanche? :clapping:

no prob, had hood up and phone in hand :-) just did the grond by the dipstick, and now its not starting... don't think its something i did, think its fuel pressure issuse from what i been reading. but thats for another post when i get around to it.

here's a pic from my 87

Allright, this is the kinda info i was hoping for...Ima go start on my grounds now. Anything else anyone can add about the 4.0 renix? I'll take some pics of a few things I'm vurious about. :dunno:

Thanks guys! that is the type of info i was looking for :clapping: and how could i forget Billavista :oops: Eagle, i didnt relize it was renix also, looks nothing like the renix engines i have seen in the past. open cooling system, very basic 2.5L i'll snap some pics of the odd stuff i see on the 4.0. Also i press the brake pedel and my turnsignals light up, is this part of the bad ground issue? Agian Thanks a million.

Just picked up a 87 Comanche with 4.0/5 speed. and looking to learn all i can about the renix. I noticed some things arent hooked up, and other lead nowhere. Truck runs good other then an exaust leak and high idle when first started up. I'm no starnger to the 86 2.5l and 94 4.0 as i have both of those, but this renix is confusing at first glance. Any advane would be great Thanks BTW here's some pics. :clapping: :clapping: :clapping:

1987 Jeep Comanche Vin: 1JTML651XHT110298 Engine: 4.0 I6 Transmission: BA10/5? Transfer Case: NP231 Front Axle: Dana 30 Rear Axle: Havn't looked Wheelbase: Long Bed Build Date: Not sure Location: Shady Cove Oregon Picture: Status: Just picked it up today for $450, Will be my DD/weekend wheeler when done. Notes: This truck is black with black inter. bench seat,no headliner, every thing else is good shape.Light rust on the body with driver floor rotted out. Current Owner: I am the new and proud owner :clapping:

4.10 - used with 2.5L engine usually, and older XJs with the "Off-Highway Vehicle" package. 92+ dana 30 has no CAD Dana 44 non c-clip - 30 spline, 1.31" diameter shafts, 8.5" ring gear, 2.75" axle tube - used 87-89 on XJs equipped with towing package. Ford 8.8 With Disc brakes - To get rear disc brakes and 31-spline axle, you need to look for a 1995 to 2001 Explorer or Mountaineer. False. Standard cut gears are for Low pinion axles, reverse cut is for high pinion axles. The Low vs. High refers to the pinion and its center-line in relation to the axle shafts. No D30 will have stock locker or LSD and google.com is your friend

Brake booster maybe? i have this happen in my 94 Cherokee, but its only when i push it about 1/4th inch, anymoe and it goes away. don't know what it is, but was told probley the booster

wow me neither :(

wow was just little drunk when i posted that :cheers: anyways its just milky on the top 6 inch or so of the dip stick, then its normal down to the oil fill level. Drained oil and nothing in the oil, was normal other then reallllllly black. ran 4 qts of atf for 15min and drained, black agian full tune up on her and she runs like a top.