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for my pin striping I just used a regular hair dryer. just get it started and heat and peel.

if it hasn't been done recently I would change the water pump.

could it maybe be too rich? exhaust smelling like gas would tell me it isn't all getting burned up.

I don't know how they are now but i used to run uniroyal tiger paws on my S10 and it seems like they got around 50k miles on them. Seems like there were aroun $60 each too at the time for a 205/15.

yeah, just goes to show you can't always use the door jamb year.

ok, curiosity got the best of me, I went to the guys house and pulled the VIN. It was a 96 so the other guys are right!

on the years that will work, in the door jamb, this jeep's mfg date is 10/93 which I would presume to be a 94 model and it has an airbag and the connections look different. It is a 2 door if that makes any difference. I guess they could have possibly replaced the doors but this jeep looks good. If that is the case then it might be a 96 which is what the guy thought it was in the first place which means that I can use it as a donor motor for my 98. I need to look at it again. Is there another place I can find the year?

if you tear into your column to tighten the bolts, you have to take the switch out anyway, you might as well replace it then.

funny, i had a set of almost bald 235's on mine with no DW problems. I got some new 235's and occasionally if I hit a hole or something on a dirt road I would get some DW. I tightened up the steering box bolts and a tie rod end and the DW went away. I still have some play in the steering though. I think I need to just replace all the tie rod ends and the track bar and that should fix the play.

careful on the 1994's, I went to pull a column out of one the other day and it has an airbag and all the connections appear to be different so I left it alone. I also got one from a jY that wasn't exactly the same, they didn't include the connections on the column so I had to use mine from the original column then the push rods for the ignition switch and hi-low beam didn't match up exactly right. Try to fix it if you can. here are a couple of good links you can use. some tools that everyone doesn't have that you need are a lock plate removal tool steering wheel puller E8 torx head http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/088020.html http://www.buickperformance.com/tiltste ... wobble.htm I used this info to tear into mine a few times before realizing that the tilt part of the actual column was busted.

ok, say you get 8 years out of that battery, couldn't you get a similar battery from wally world for say $60? Mine from wally world usually last about 5yrs (for car batteries). So i can get 3 wally world batteries for the price of one optima 3X5 = 15 years of service vs 8 for the same money. I just don't understand the fascination with them and spending that much money.

Jeff, things are really looking good, sent you a pm.

One other thing to keep in mind is your 88MJ auto likely has 3.55 gears in the rear. If you take the front end from the 5spd XJ, it will likely have 3.07 which would mean you would need the rear end to have the same gears. I expect the 3.07 in an auto would be kind of weak, especially if you are going to lift and get bigger tires. I guess bottom line is if you keep the auto and go 4X4 you'll need to regear or find a front/rear out of another auto.

I read an article somewhere where a guy had done a study and 50/50 ATF and Acetone was by far the best you could get for the money. I know wd-40 was at about the bottom of the list, PB about mid way, Kroil was at the top but the mix was above it. Seems there was one better but it was really expensive and maybe not even publicly available.

I have an 06 Trailblazer that I have been running synthetic in since about 15k miles and have had no problems at all, about 70k miles now. I change every 7500 miles. I'm not sure if I would switch to synthetic on a vehicle that has a lot of miles on it. I have a couple jeeps and a chevy prizm that all were about 150k when I got them and I just keep dino oil in them and change them every 5k miles. I bought a minivan not long ago that had dino oil changed every 3k miles since new. I almost switched to synthetic and actually would have but they were out of it so I put dino back in it. I think I'll just keep running dino in it every 3k miles as the previous owner did. personally If i bought a vehicle new I would run synthetic in it after the break-in but I'm not sure if I would switch after it has a lot of miles on it. I guess the next question is "what is a lot of miles? " :-)

if yours is like mine, I sit 1.5 inches or so high in the back anyway, I might do as suggested and go with a 2inch spacer to see what happens.

when I first got my MJ, I had a hard time cranking it but I figured out a trick that works for mine. turn the key to on but not to crank, you can hear the fuel pump come on, after a couple seconds you hear it turn off (or so it sounds that way). I then try to start it and hold the accel to the floor and it turns over a few times and starts right up. if i vary the process it takes longer to crank. i know there are likely some fuel flow/pressure issues but it starts fine and i just haven't checked into them yet.

Thanks Pete on the back it should be pretty much the same except maybe the DS. Anyone know if I'll need to modify the DS or are the D44 and 8.25 pretty much the same length.

thanks guys, especially for the info on the oil pressure gauge so I can test it. Those senders aren't but like $10-$15 so if i have any question i'll just replace them anyway.

yeah, I'm unlikely to re-gear. The 3.07 does pretty well for what i need I was just thinking the 3.55 would be better, especially if I ever go to 31 inch tires. Is it a simple pretty much bolt on swap? I know my 88 has the vacuum disconnect stuff and the 98 doesn't but is it pretty much a bolt on? I know I'll have to weld on the perches, anything else? Any drive shaft considerations?

on my MJ and my heat works fine. It has been that way since I got it this spring, I only drive it sparingly. Does this sound like the sender or the gauge or do you guys think this is normal? I know th XJ runs about 210. My Oil gauge is also pegged all the way to the right so I know i likely need a new sender/gauge there. Could they be related?

ok so is it a simple bolt on swap except for the perches? Can I put my old MJ front/rear end back under the XJ if needed? Any sensors or anything that won't match up with the new axle?

My MJ currently has the 3.07 D44 to go with my 5 speed. i have a 98 XJ with the 8.25/AW4 that i expect has 3.55 gears. The 98 XJ needs an engine so I'm contemplating my options.... Just kind of curious if you guys would swap the front/rear ends to get the lower gears in your MJ? is it a lot of work or is it mostly a direct swap except for the perches in the rear? Are there driveshaft length considerations as well? Another question, if i do the swap, could i do spring over in the rear (~5 inches) with the XJ shackle (-1) to give 4 inches, then do 3 inch springs in the front (I like a little rake). my end goal for the MJ would be to some day have a 3-4 inch lift with 31 inch tires. I don't really wheel, just beat around in the woods and would like the look. thanks, Chris

My wife got me a cheapo Fiesta Optima in about 2001 for Fathers day and I love it. If I recall it was under $200. The igniters didn't last but maybe a year but it has the cast iron grates in it and they make a huge difference. I had to put a new burner in last year but it has worked great for years with really no problems other than the igniters. my main thing would be to make sure it has the cast iron grates, once you cook a few times on them, they are pretty stick free and don't rust through like the old steel ones. I've never had the luxury of using stainless so i can't comment on them but if you look at somewhere like Walmart, you can find some stainless models for under $300 and they look really nice.

I might have to try that, then my only problem would be backing the boat for the 50 feet I have to go to get the 4wd to disengage ;-)