kazam

I do not have my dictionary in front of me now. I will improve on my spelling as able to, with the time available I am sure that a Mechanic must communicate correctly. For some regions, so I have found, spelling is not required. I am sure that correct spelling helps sometimes.

"Whether" or not this kit works well on a Stock height MJ or XJ is something that I am investigating". I had read on forum posting (s) that the Bracket Hits, on stock hieght XJ & MJ Jeeps, sometimes. I would not want to get the kit then have to take an angle grinder to it. The quality I found with the kit is Quality. There is some room for improvement. Such as the bolt that I found to go with the axle-side bushing was 'a bit' undersized. The parts worked for a better than stock repair, with my situation. I have to re-check parts, I weld. I did add the WJ lower control-arms several years ago. I added reinforcement in the way of the upper control arms "boxed" with 1" Outside Diameter steel tubing welded into the channels. I really am sure that I would recommend the Rough Country Kit. I am not sure how it would work on stock height MJ or XJ I have not tested that yet. Peaceful Time

"Whether" or not this kit works well on a Stock height MJ or XJ is something that I am investigating. And: I purchased the Kit through the Rough Country Website; not through eBay or Amazon. The part arrived before I expected it to and right on time to help. Peaceful Time.

08-28-2022 Greetings, I have more to replace, such as U-joints and shims. I have some of the parts already; Dana / Spicer . I have not had the time recently. I did install a Rough Country Track Bar Kit: Jeep Front Forged Adjustable Track Bar (XJ, ZJ, MJ w/ 0-3.5in) SKU: 1181 1 $149.95 That was priced and paid for at about $162, after taxes and shipping. That is something else. The Comanche Jeep Tracks on the Road So much Better. I can find a way to get Death Wobble. I have more to improve. The Bracket and parts have to be installed tight; and not to snap off the hardware. I had some long levers with some countours to get access with the correct torque. Installed on a clean frame, that track bar kit fit the MJ I look after Great. I had been about 2"+ from stock, not including tires. I set the Jeep at about wheels straight-on, as it rolled. That was after I found out about what a track bar does, on road. I was Super nervous, about the on road , off road, the handling of the Jeep, after I installed the kit. i went over road surfaces that would previously always set-off the Death Wobble ,and the MJ was smooth and better over those surfaces without a problem. The kit is not a miracle cure. I had checked my track bar and did not think it was bad. I am sure this is an uprade that I think is great. It is a stronger tie-together-part-assembly. I will be looking into bushings interchangability. And, for the Price that I paid, I would say that if you have to time and ability to install that kit correctly then that is a great upgrade, if the specifics of the ride height and other factors match. I am yet investigating wether or not this kit would actualy work better on a stock height XJ, without shaving parts. Bolt in: I think it is sometimes. I love this set. Thanks.

07-24-2022 Greetings, Thanks for the help already. My (MJ's) track bar assembly broke at the ball-joint to bracket (Ball-Joint pin sheared at the bracket at the Frame Rail). The Stock, whatever was on there, held up well beyond reasonable expectations. With some responses to my previous posting, and my research, my question about the 'stock' track bar assembly was answered to help my perspective. The track bar does usually (stock, and plenty of aftermarket) be there as an assembly and Not Servicable at the Ball-Joint end. I saw a link in some posts about "Luke's Links" or so, and that is not the option for this MJ and me. I am planning on installing the 'Rough Country' Track Bar set: https://www.roughcountry.com/forged-adjustable-track-bar-1181.html https://www.amazon.com/Rough-Country-1181-Country-1181-Front-Adjustable/dp/B01MATBAOK/ref=asc_df_B01MATBAOK/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312429177733&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3369271850692443368&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029579&hvtargid=pla-547237310127&psc=1 I read that this kit will fit a stock (non-lifted) Cherokee; a friend of mine has a 2000 XJ that could do with a new track-arm set. I had read that sometimes the new bracket Hits___________________Something. Also: I had installed WJ controll arms in my Jeep MJ. After all the shaking I have to re-check the bushings. With previous XJs I had boxed the stock control arms with round pipe; then after clean-up I replaced the bushings, and at the time, Moog ran Great; straight/flat/no un-due roll/ Really connected, nicely leveled turns at speed; for example 55mph at up and down roads winding, and there was grip. It took a buch of specifics to get to that point. And to be truthful; the Edelbrock IAS Performer shocks, front and rear made a World of difference. Each part can do So much. How are the Rough Country kits holding up on Yours? Thanks very much for the information. That can help to get to better configurations. Thanks again.

07-19-2022 Greetings, The Track-Bar Ball-Joint snapped today; there was some death wobble to help it along. After searching some online and at the manual, I have not found a replacement ball joint, or a procedure listed to replace that ball joint. I have replaced ball joints at other locations, such as the steering knuckle, so I understand about what the procedure would be; press the old one out and press in a new one. I am wondering, are the track bars usually replaced as a unit at this point? Maybe I just missed the correct parts link. Thanks. 1987 MJ, 2.5L, 2+ inches of lift (spacers), converted from 2WD to 4WD before I got it, work in progress

I just found a similar thread: https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/egr-delete.2157009/ Thanks.

Greetings, I read your post and have some of the same questions regarding performance/functional changes if the EGR system is deleted. I have a 2.5L (1987). Anyone else have experience with the results of such a modification? Thanks.

Greetings, This Comanche is a 1987 (mostly) now 4WD, with about a 2" lift front and rear, with 31.5" tires. 2.5L engine, 'would like to install a 4.0L later. I have a 2001 WJ that was hit and will be retired to the pick-n-pull. I am considering salvaging the sway bar (and links) to install on the Comanche. I saw a post on the forum somewhere, where this swap had been done. I am not sure that the swap is worth my time right now. I am aware the WJ sway bar is well built. The Comanche has WJ control arms installed. Does the WJ sway bar make a noticable difference compared to stock components in maintained condition? Thanks.

Greetings, It read like 'Eric A' had the actual needle on that Jeep gauge physically fall off; may be I did read that otherwise. I changed over from the 'Big Fuel Gauge' cluster to an earlier 'XJ 'cluster with a mechanical tachometer drive et cetera. I have not adjusted the tachometer from and inline-six to an inline-four yet because I have a lot of time with engines and, I am thankful; I have a marker pen too. I really would like to get to calibrating the tachometer with my Comanche. Thanks for help keeping me focused.

I had a timeline to work with. The parts store has a CS 130 (105 amps) in a day or so that I intend to purchase for a backup for the Comanche or otherwise for my Jeep Pickup. Wilson Line (DELCO) PN: 90-01-4612 (at O'Reilly's). I had to get to work on time; I opened up the Comanche (stock from when I got it) alternator ((who knows) 64A or 71A). I found the rotor surfaces at the bushing contacts glazed. I cleaned those (with some 180 Wet Dry as available, Carefully) and put the alternator together with some safely wire. Two of three case fasteners broke in the alternator casing during disassembly. I drilled and removed and extracted with penetrating oil and heat before and otherwise. The fasteners' pieces were in there; I even broke an extractor (#2). I am not attempting to 'skimp' on quality or money. The alternator in the MJ works Great now. I had thought it might be the voltage regulator (internal) or the brushes. I hoped it was not a field winding; it was not. The brushes yet looked Good to Run. The "stock" alternator just requied some care. And I am sure to mention that the 90-01-4612 may require switching out of pulleys. For my work schedule and resources this is the option I found. Thanks Very Much.

It seems like you are testing components appropriately. If you have not already since starting into the Jeep you might check the wiring harness connection at the firewall, open that up and make sure everything is clean and correct then put it back together with some dialectric grease. I had a no spark issue resolved with some cleaning and pin straightening there.

There are four 31X10.50 R15 tires on stock aluminum rims up front & on aftermarker 15" aluminum rims in the rear. A previous owner switched out various and added a few (2-3"?) of lift. I kept the aftermarket rims at the rear and put stock rims up front to match the width of the fender flares. There is a small amount of rubbing at the front when turning to full lock (at the sway bar). The wheel size suites the MJ I have. On several stock XJs I have fit 235 75 R15 tires on both aluminum and steel rims and not had any problems at all with those.

Greetings, Thanks for the reply. I did a quick search for a "double booster" upgrade and am not sure what the parts change would be. 'Any more information available on that? Thanks very much.

Greetings,. I have a mostly '87 Comanche with a 150 c.i. engine (I-4). The idle had been a bit high recently; I did not find any broken vaccum lines; et cetera; I looked for problems. I am a Mechanic with training, credentials, and experience, and looked for simple soulutions; besides that I have worked with the XJ type much and this MJ for about ten years with various time allocated. That said, as a Mechanic, I am up to learning more about some specifics. I do not know every thing. The Idle had been high, and today the brake pedal stuck. The brake booster seemed to be working when not-requested. I pressed on the brake pedal (today) and the pedal moved to the floor/firewall on its own. I disconnected the vaccume line to the brake booster assembly. And I plugged/sealed that line with what I had available. It was a surprise to me when the brakes locked up today. So I may have to replace the brake booster assy. Before I order parts I posted this message asking: Is there some other part that could be (Likely) causing this propblem. Maybe a something that the brake-booster assy. interacts with like a sensor?. It seems to me like the brake booster I have may have an internal diaphragm failure, or something. It also seems like that is a sealed unit that I do not work on standardly. I am not attempng to change out parts without a reason to. My next step with the Comanche brake situation is to chcek this forum this weekend. And I will likely replace the brake booster assy. I thought to ask for some helpful perpective. Thanks very much.

Greetings, Thanks All for the helpful replies. For my configuration, I am interested in that 134A Grand Cherokee possibility that "Vakarian" posted. How would that work?; have you got a picture of the modification required?. I have not got a probelm with upgrades and work for such; I would like to find out a few more specifics before ordering parts. Have you got a part number for the Grand Cherokee alternator, or a Year and Engine (so many various Grand Cherokees exist). Also, would a different-than-stock engine/serpentine belt be required?. Again: 1987 150 c.i. I-4, Without A/C. Thanks Again All for the helpful replies.

Greetings, I may have to replace the alternator for an I-4, 150 c.i., without Air Conditioning, '87 Comanche. The local parts store had an O.E.M. replacement at about 61 Amps, and another at 74 Amps. I will likely go with the 74 Amp replacement. I am wondering about other higher amperage options that may be a direct bolt in. Thanks.

Greetings, Maybe it is helpful to remove the firewall harness at the engine-bay, where the harness then goes to the interior, clean those contacts and replace carefully. I had a no-start condition; 'eventually, found a bent pin that I had missed (blue-colored wire). And cleaning improved running. That was several years and miles ago. I have to check the Connection at the Comanche I have soon, for a high-idle problem; I have not found vaccum leaks so far at this one.

Greetings, That is really helpful. Thanks Very Much.

Greetings, I have a 2.5L I-4 engine (1987). The coolant temperature gauge does go through the register while powering on; then when running the indication stays at 100 deg. I am away from my set of manuals for this Jeep. It's been a while since I tested one of these. Maybe someone can inform me on how to test the sender/ sensor (the one up top on the engine, near the firewall, for the gauge) before I spend $25 or so on a replacement. I have a multimeter and boiled water available. I am aware that the sender is a thermo-sensitive resistor. I am not clear on what resistance values are standard for this part. I am thinking, the resistance-value lowers, as the temperature rises. I'll check it this next Monday. I would appreciate a heads-up in case I have overlooked something Important. Thanks very much.

At M.R. 277, with Informations Service supplements, at B-14 & B-15 (I.S.) are schematic diagrams; both similar; 50 States, Canada. Those do not include explanation of component flow characteristics. I scanned a PDF of those pages, and that did not help any. I am working on it.

I would like to route lines correctly for safe or better vaccum pressure and correct flow of materials. Pretty well I am not attempting to change engine characteristics; I replaced the plastic valve cover with an aluminum valve cover for durability. Some of the fittings are different. I'll have another look at the engine and my data. Considering engine breathing with sensors that may or may not be CCV or otherwise PCV type-specific,I asked about line routing. I have found there to often (not always) be a draw from the atmosphere of the 'under the valve-cover above the valves atmosphere'; that material then ducted to the air-intake before the air filter; various sensors "consider" the pressure(s). Engine and other systems, run with at least some input of the Manifold Vaccum Pressure, and the "data" of corresponding components: mechanical or otherwise; so I have found. I intend to have another look at what I have.

Greetings, I have replaced the plastic valve cover (150 c.i. I-4), 1987 Comanche, with an aluminum cover from a YJ I think it was. I have not fit the vaccum lines yet; I could do with a bit more clarity about how to change that part of the system, PCV, CCV, line routing. The previous link from this tread for more clarity on how to make the switch is out of date. Maybe someone has that information available. Thanks very much.

The Comanche started the day before yesterday. And I went to work with the Comanche Today. I would love to provide more specifics about the work/repairs as I may. Thanks. 'Almost Forgot; I found my multimeter; the mulit-meter and propper data helped me.'

Greetings, What engine and engine managment system is in there? And, the problem is solved? Thanks.