kazam

My Opinion: Those Peviously Stated Numbers Sound Correct: IF YOU BOTH Have the Same Engine. Type of Engine & Specifics are important; "hotter" within temp. (for your engine) may be Much more efficient; Specifics may help for a better answer, provided.

Where-ever I set my multi-meter, I haven't found that yet today. I took a look at the distributor ( 1987, MJ I-4 engine, Throttle Body Injection), and after at least tripple checking I found that there was not a sensor at the distributor on that engine. I did find a BWD part# ME79 (Distributor Ignition Pickup) listed at Oreilly's site; the part looks like it would probably fit my Jeep. (So I can understand that some Comanches may have such a sensor). And thanks, "Sync Sensor" and so forth helped me to find that data. Again, I found no sensors connected/installed/ and so forth at the distributor on this Jeep; I do not think any such parts were ever equipped on this Jeep. At the interior, driver's side I found the: Renix S100801-103 I would like to test if there is a 12v signal from the ECU to the TB Injector, after I find my multi-meter and have the time for the test. I have some tree work to do today more immediately; the Comanche in operational condition would really help with that. 'have to go to work with the XJ for right now. 'until next. Thanks very much.

I yet have not got the photo bit of it figured out. 'am working on it, as Ihave the time to, thanks for the patience. --end--note---

I apologize; the wiring diagram images so far posted are less accessable than I had intended. I do:understand carburetors, Maybe, a bit more because I also Breath, and so forth and so on. Digital signals make some times Way Better, from my experience. Attempting to Supply Better photo/data links:

To be more accurate; I was unaware of there being a Camshaft Position Sensor. I have not had to work on that before. I've worked on many types of Engine configurations; thanks-again. Also, Is That Cam. Pos. Sensor a ready-made part? I have not found a listing of a Camshaft Position Sensor yet, online. And Maybe I can take a look and see what is in and about the distributor, later from now. I wonder if the Cam. Pos Sensor is Built into the Distr., or otherwise independently replaceable from the rest of that assembly. Thanks again.

I was unaware of the Camshaft position sensor having that function. I have some more looking and testing to do, and Thanks Very Much.

Thanks very much for that reply. I really like the idea of a Carburetor on the Comanche, and I think a 2BBL does make sense for the I-4. For the time being, I'll have to find my multi-meter then check a few more connections and take a few more readings; if I can repair what is there then that would help to move things along. And, if you/(someone) happen/(s) to figure out a nice match of a carburetor for the I-4 then that would definitely interest me. I'll have to put some time into researching that, when I've got some more time to. Thanks again for the thought.

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09-18-2015 I will have to find a way to post some of these wiring diagrams I've been looking at. An older Chilton gave Me a heads-up to check voltage at the Fuel Pump Relay Connections; -- looks like that is with the ignition on and system Not cranking. ' Will see what I can find I did clean the terminal(s)/ connection block from the Engine Bay to FirewallWires thouroughly, after the non-start function began (and noticed no difference in response). -----------------------end-------------------------------note------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

09-18-2015 It seems like #21 from the E.C.U. should be sendig the 12V nominal to the injector, from what wiring diagrams I've been able to see. Is there something besides the Crankshaft Position Sensor signal to the E.C.U. that would keep the E.C.U. from suppling 12V?.. seems like there must be suposing the new part installed was well and installed correctly; it really only did fit one wa so what's next. I may have to trace wires and connections to determine continuity; I am not trying to miss a correct step. -------------end----------------note-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

09-18-2015 Greetings, The '87 MJ I4 2.5L I have was running and then stopped. There IS: Air Intake to the cylinders, Compession, & Spark There is a fuel delivery problem. I have fuel pressure to the Throttle Body Injector. If I provide the injector with 12V then it does respond (like a Solenoid should) Opening and Closing/ Moving Correctly with the correct voltage supplied. ------ So, the trouble seems to be that the Jeep is not supplying the T.B.I. with the Voltage required to actuate that injector and so provide fuel to the cylinders. The Jeep was running recently then died; I have only been ablt to get it to run by pouring fuel into the intake myself. I did replace the Crank Position Sensor Today with a new part. Battery voltage is fine. Cranking is fine. The Injector is not opening when I turn the key. Where to look next, right? Thanks. -----------------end-------------------note-------------------------

With an '87 MJ (less than 3" lift) I will likely replace the Lower Control Arms, with the Later model WJ (oval-bushing-type) control arms. Do the Upper Control Arms from the WJ also fit? Do they make for an improvement? Thanks

Greetings. For the multi-puposes of maintenance situations, I am looking for a camera or a camera-set to help me see what I have to work on and what I can not see directly from where I sit; etc. There is some sort of Shakes-s-Violently--Cascade-like (grows from a tremble to seems like the front axel&wheels will shake (Something) Loose and really damage something --0UT-- Evey time I look under the lower-bezel-trim it looks as nothing is out of place or damaged. The sound is a Hard Shuttering Sound; the whole Cab Vibrates; it feels like the whole front axel-with wheels is going left to right (shaking), yet the Comanche (JEEP) tracks straight -- I do not have full control (maybe) -- because the shutter is so Extreme I tend to pull over before damaging something (including myself), so steering and braking seem intact..(Mostly-- as the yet the Shutter messes up the whole driving situation; I got better at manuevering a vehicle with less-than-safe-control, I Suppose; that said I have had several hundred of those shaking experiences with this not-stock Comanche; that Honor of keeping a Comanche Well was given to me by my brother; passed; I love it, and that is not sarcasm; it's complicated -- complex, I believe . I plan to post pictures to help explain the situation better ( of what Comanche configuration I have). This post is meant to maybe help figure-out what model-number, location available from, and such where a camera (camera-set) might be available and Quality, so that I could make some simple brackets and mount that Camera(-) to record then see the front suspention in action as these Strong Shutter moments occurr. To Refresh: this is a post about equipment; diagnostiuc tools, recommendations: I want to see what the is going on with the Jeep; I should be able to fix some finite problems. Right?. Next I'll post more about the specifics of the 1987 Comanche I have. To mention something else relvant about the Jeep is forthcoming (Specifics); Camera options might help me get better answers toi the questions so that some questions do not have to be asked un-duely. And so forth; thanks. Thanks Very Much.

Greetings, I decided this morning that I have to make some more space, so the ' 91 XJ is going to go to somewhere; the motor is going to replace the struggling I-4 in my '87 Comanche. I am wondering what work I have to do to get that done. I am wondering what all I have to transfer, and I might appreciate some specifics that would help. I figure I will transfer the engine and accessories from the (XJ), and that would include the: wiring harness, ECU, what else ? Thanks very much.

RE: "Problamatic hidden danger". So, I've driven this Jeep too many times to not understand that there is something not right with it. That front ends' shaking only was worse today. It is so that the oversized tires (mabye a bit out of balance & or (those) out of alignement just took over at a bump? today). I do not think so because the Jeep rolls up the road well and true and in a straight line without problem usually. The almost randomness of this shaking situation is problematic. Thanks. -------------------------end-----------------------------------------------------------------------note--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The MJ Jeep in the Avatar is the one I'm posting about.

Greetings. I almost hate that term. I've an '87 MJ lifted ? a bit --- looks like home made spacers of about 1.25" or so at the front coil springs. I have not noticed other modifications to the suspention; maybe there is installed aftermarket springs or (I doubt it (leaf springs)). It looks like a semi-stock Comanche. It has larger 31" or so wheels on non stock (a bit more outward set)_rims. This loss of control concerns me. It is an I4 (Not TOO heavy up front or otherwise; there is a midbalance ( Weight ) with the truckbox containing whatnot. Sometimes the MJ gets onto a shaking vibration where I have no or liitle front end control. This is regular yet not regular; I too often have this front end (shaking ) take over steering and safe braking, and I have not found a set pattern to this danger yet. Most of the time the MJ tracks just fine. It is regular that the shaking anomaly Surprises me. Bad spots in paved roads sometimes set off the vibrations; today I had an almost violent shaking 10+ seconds with alomost no control I coul find, coasting doen a hill where I did not have to steer much; I got through that. I'm attempting to figure out where the probrlamatic hidden danger is.

Greetings, I may have to really take the 4.0L High Output engine from my 1991 XJ. The '87 Comanche I maintain would receive that 4.0 engine. So how do I get that work done? Specifics like: How to build a cradle for the engine(s)-- Remember what parts of the wiring harness--?-- I am a mechanic who has not completed this such project before, so I am a novice with talent & tools about this project. Remember to disconnect the radiator(: -- 'Save those hoses' ( out of habbit or must I for the new installation? ;) The alternator, A/C compressor, radiator, ECU? from the XJ must be maintained in the transition?. Thanks for the help, in advance.

Thanks for the insight; I have much to consider.

jimoshelDo you have a link to Specifications on the unit you mentioned or are thinking about? I weld; maybe my insight could be helpful; maybe not.

Likewise, Thanks "87 Warrior". "Frame Caps" (: I appreciate the terminology. On a similar yet different note: On the '72 FSJ (J-2000) I take care of for my Brother, I replaced the floor pans with new mild steel ((1/8th inch I think (I'd have to look again)) tack-welded to the frame rails). That Jeep dropped onto a bottle jack and just had a small dent made in the passenger-side floor. The point being: if the floor pans do need work, there are plenty of options, especially if you weld yourself. For better "restorations" I absolutley would require stock parts. Thanks again for the terminology.

In case it has not been mentioned: whatever engine you have installed: if you can boost the compression safely then that should yield more power. Examples of How to Boost compression include having the head and or block milled, adding alternately shaped pistons (domed, etc.), ______(maybe something else)________; valve clearance has to be correctly computed/measured so that the parts do not clash. I met someone who had their clearance down to a nominal .030" (between piston and valve). Just a thought; I would like to rebuild the stock I-4 in the '87 MJ I have (for fun if nothing else) and see how to improve that engine. The 4.0 H.O. is great and does get 26 m.p.g. depending on driving style, etc. More power could be fun... . It sounds great.

I've got to replace the power steering gear, and I got a rebuilt replacement from RockAuto (a Lares 1353, I think). I'll give the # on the tag a call before I do the installation. The Question I have is: do I have to go through an alignment process to get all the linkage and gears to be oriented with each other correctly. For example, with the steering components installed as they are now I get so many turns of the steering wheel to the right and so many to the left (those should be even) before the gears and or stops reach their limits. I would GUESS that the steering gear is set from the factory to where it should be just bolted in, and I suppose I'd just straighten out the steering wheel, pitman arm, and wheels and bolt in the part. I'm not sure so I'm wondering if there is a procedure to go through to get everything aligned and set in place evenly. Thanks.

The tires in the avatar are on the MJ; it too used to be a 2WD four speed. Now it's got the AX-5 and 4WD; I'm not sure about the other gearing. I generally run the 91 because I get some power with the Revs Up , and I do not want detonation. I'm still figuring out this engine and try to be extra safe. & I get (in 5th gear) little torque, yet it's helpful for breaking on hills and cruising on pretty much dead straight -- I still get about 16 mpg. It sounds like that is about right for my MJ's setup, yet I really like that 30 mpg S. CA MJ idea. There is an XJ gauge cluster installed (I have not adjusted the tachometer rheostat yet, as I have to get an external tachometer). The ignition rotor and cap were replaced recently, and the wires are good. The fuel filter should be fine; it's still due for replacement this month, for good measure. The air filter is nice and clean. I haven't checked the valves yet; I did put in a set of hotter plugs to keep oil residue build-up in check. The hotter plugs work much better -- stay much cleaner. Maybe a top end rebuild in the future... the crank rear main bearing looked excellent, when I was under there changing some gaskgets/seals, etc. ...I'll keep working on it. cheers

I've got an '87 Inline Four engine with an average of 16 Miles per Gallon. Normally 91 octane is run; I have not yet found any vacume leaks. I will have to check the seals at the valve cover more.