binsy

4.0 Yes, worked like a charm. Thanks!

More research discloses that #14 wire should be protected by #18 fusible link.

Hi, Everyone. I hope that this information will help someone. My truck wouldn't crank but it started perfectly when I ran a jumper from the "S" terminal on the starter solenoid (that's the very small terminal) to the positive side of the battery. So I knew that the starter and solenoid were AOK. Rather than race to replace the Neutral Safety Switch (NSS), I decided to try the easier fix first: replace the Starter Relay (SR). (Part #S4905 at Advance Auto, $37.99 including shipping. That was the price after applying the discount code and, if you call, the CSR can waive shipping fees which he did for me). I decided to replace the SR because it was the original, it looked gross and because I didn't hear a click when I turned the key; I did hear the fuel pump. This SR has four spade-type terminals and a big battery lug. As I was doing the job, some brittle wires broke and I wanted to make sure of the wiring even though I had made a diagram before I started the job. Maybe I wasn't looking in the places that are familiar to all of you but I had a very hard time finding the info. So here goes: The four spade terminals are: G, I, SOL and F. This is a key to the abbreviations: G = ground I = Ignition Switch SOL= Starter Solenoid F = Fuel Control The colors and sizes of the wires going to them are as follows: G = Black/White; #18 I = Green; #14 SOL = Dark Green; #14 F = Orange/Black; #14 Everything is AOK...cranks like a charm. BTW, you can buy a brand new NSS on ebay for under $60.00! I do have a question. I can't find any fuses that are related to these wires so I'm guessing that there are supposed to be fusible links on some of them. Can anyone tell me which wire(s) should have fusible links and the amperage? Thanks!