reubj

Team Cherokee sells the whole set.

I put the Volvo injectors on my stock '89 4.0. No issues, slight performance improvement.

Of course it was. The injectors have nothing to do with idle flare on start-up. It's TPS and it's related grounds/connections. That's what I thought as well. I'm still intrigued by the power latch relay. Might that have something to do with it? Some faulty interpretation by the computer?

Yes I replaced the injectors with the Volvo injectors. The high idle was there before and after.

Thanks everyone for the responses.

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/154-1005-jeep-cherokee-xj-problems-and-fixes/ How much stuff has to be removed to gain access to the intake / exhaust manifold bolts?

Yep. Did that Friday. .02 Ohms, no fluctuations.

Cruiser: When I bought the vehicle back in August I performed #1 and #3. This weekend I did the same thing. The truck idles and runs beautifully under all normal driving conditions. Only when the truck is stalled as I described does the high idle appear. Just a nuisance at this point.

I replaced the injectors a couple of weeks ago. I'll try to test for vacuum leaks around the intake.

Okay. I went over all grounds and connections. Everything looks good. While I was at it I checked the TPS. Results were 4.86VDC and .75 VDC. I readjusted to get a reading of .82VDC. Took it out for a spin. Ran fine. Got back and popped the cutch to stall it out. Restarted, idle at 3000 RPM. Shut it off, waited a minute, restarted at 2500 RPM.

Did the sensor test #5. No fluctuations. Reading .02 ohms.

Fuses?

I will definitely post when/if I find a solution. I wonder if the powerlatch relay may have something to do with it? No. Start with post 5. First thing on my to-do list this weekend.

I will definitely post when/if I find a solution. I wonder if the powerlatch relay may have something to do with it?

The only time this ever happens is when I re-start it immediately after stalling it out by trying to creep up a hill or something. If I turn it off with the key then immediately re-start it does fine. Not sure what stalling has to do with it.

This has happened couple of times: I would accidentally stall the engine while parking. The engine re-starts easily but at a very high idle, 2000 - 3000 RPM. I would turn off the engine for 30 seconds or so and re-start it with the same high idle issue. Under any other situation the engine re-starts fine hot or cold, after a short trip or long trip. I've tried searching this scenario with no luck. Any help is appreciated.

No leaky master cylinder. Previous owner added SunPro gauges and did not bother with the illumination. I noticed there is nothing in the 30A CB slot in the fuse block. I would assume that would be where the 12V constant originates from. I guess there never has been. Where else could the pink wire be getting its power?

Yesterday I was running some new wiring for guage illumination. As I was check things I noticed the radio was no longer coming on. I pulled it and found that the constant 12V (pink wire) is now only .22V (yes, point 22 volts; probably back-feed?). I can't think of anything I did that might cause this except rustling some of the harness around. Any thoughts? Thanks.

I replaced my drain plug with an M16 X 1.5 magnetic drain plug and the fill plug with an M18 X 1.5 oxygen sensor bung plug. No more special wrench needed.

1989 Jeep Comanche Pioneer 4.0 Renix, BA10/5 tranny, NP231 Xfer, Dana 30, Dana 35, Long Bed Build Date: 11/09/1988 Frederick County MD On the road. Hunting, fishing, Home Depot, etc. Still pretty much stock. 130K on the odometer. Baltic Blue metallic ext, blue interior. cloth bench seat. Build sheet: Sales Code Description ADB Protection Group ADLA Skid Plate Group ALN Spring Special White Appearance Grp APAS Monotone Paint BCXS Nickel Metal Hydride Battery BGAS Power Front Disc/Rear Drum Brakes BKPS 10x2.5 Rear Drum Brakes CBAP Straight Back Bench Seat CKAS Carpets - Floor and Cargo Area CLAP Front Floor Mats CSRS Passenger Assist Handles CUMS Mini Floor Console DBBC All Manual Transmissions DDX 5-Speed HD Manual Transmission DHNS Command-Trac Part Time 4WD System DJHS 230MM Front Axle DMMS 3.07 Rear Axle Ratio DRJS 175MM Rear Axle EAAC All Engines GACS Tinted Glass Windows GBBS Tinted Windshield Glass GCBS Front Door Tinted Glass GEHS Fixed Door Vent Glass GFDA Rear Sliding Window GNAS Rear View Day/Night Mirror GRZP Left Remote Mirror GSZP Right Remote Control Mirror GTZA Manual Remote Mirrors HCDS Heater w/Instrument Pnl Ventilation JAAS Instrument Panel JAYA Instrument Cluster w/Tach JCAS 85 MPH Primary Speedometer JGBP Digital Clock JHAA Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers JJAS Cigar Lighter JKBS Inst Panel Mounted Hood Release LAFS Key in Ign/Seat Belt Warning Buzzer LAPS Shift Indicator Warning Lamp LBCS Glove Box Lamp LMAS Halogen Headlamps MBJS Black Front Bumper MB1S Black Front Bumper MCAP Rear Body Color Applique MDAP Front License Plate Bracket MFGS Body Color Headlamp Bezels MHAS Black Windshield Moldings MMCS Rear Qtr Solid Window Insert MMGS Belt Moldings MMKS Hi Black Gloss/Black Mirror Molding NAF High Altitude Emissions NBKS EVAP Control System NDAS Catalytic Converter RAAC All Radio Equipped Vehicles RAF AM/FM Cassette Radio RCDP 4 Speakers SBAS Power Rack and Pinion Steering SCES Alcantara Wrap Steering Wheel SFAS Standard Duty Shock Absorbers SGAS Rear Shock Absorbers SUA Tilt Steering Column TAAC All Tires TBBA Full Size Spare Tire TBMS Tire Carrier Winch TMWA P215/75R15 OWL All Terrain Tires WJDS 15X7.0 Styled Steel Wheels XBSS Pickup Box XEEP Fuel Tank Skid Plate Shield XEFP Transfer Case Skid Plate Shield XEUP Front Suspension Skid Plate XFAS -35F Protection Anti-Freeze

87MJTIM - I'm sure you have your reasons but in Maryland your truck can be registered with Historic tags thus bypassing all the emissions testing crap and you can ditch the cat.

Fires right up!

Yes. I drilled the upper hole to 3/8" dia.

I checked the new NAPA CPS and got 1.3 - 1.5 VAC while cranking.

Very interesting. I was under the impression that the tip was right over the teeth of the flywheel.