Jess

If you're replacing the Evap core you might see if you can find some measurements before ordering one. I just shipped back a UAC unit (UAC EV 4177ATC) that was listed as fitting my year but wasn't even close. I don't know how many HVAC boxes they used or why they would be different so I can't say it wouldn't fit yours but I have the same expansion valve setup as you so who knows.

Thanks, that's a good idea because all of the sudden that $#!& is everywhere. Stuck to my clothes my hands, it's a good thing I have my carpet out otherwise it'd be trashed too.

Is this just dielectric grease or should I be worried?

So I have some time and I decided to pull my dash and HVAC box to fix my water leaks which I originally thought was coming from the fresh air intake but it appears now it's all the blower motor seal/foam. When I pulled the dash I discovered all kinds of exposed wires, dirty grounds, smashed/pancaked heater tubes and all sorts of nonsense so I'm making it a general clean up. It was also an excuse to put as much Dynamat (well, a knock off) on the firewall as I could. Anyway, now that I'm sitting here with this nonsense, I'm kind of regretting it... I didn't find it all that complicated to take apart. It was pretty straightforward, the issue is just the foam is all rotting and in horrible condition. The only part's I can find are these but they're listed as 97+ and I have an 89. They look right but even if I got those and they worked all the blend door and interior foam is trashed. In another post I found that someone used this product for the blower/fresh air seals and this for the blend doors. Mine is in good enough shape that I could probably use it as a template so right now I'm leaning towards that being my best option but I'm curious if anyone has any magical suggestions (besides set it on fire). There's way more foam in the box than I thought there was. I'm going to replace my heater core/evap/blower while I'm at it but that's pretty much killing my budget atm lol.

Thanks guys!

So I've got this fresh air intake water leak under the cowl on my 89 MJ. I've read every post on the internet I can find on ways to fix it and I've tried a few methods but it's not working. I don't feel like cutting the cowl open and after discovering this awesome thread on removing the Dash, I'm just going to do it and replace the seal properly. It will be a good excuse to Dynamat the firewall anyways. So while I have the heater box out I'm thinking about replacing the Heater Core and the AC Evaporator. I'm looking at parts online and I'm wondering if anyone's had experience with any of these brands? Spectra Premium 93024 Heater Core APDI 9010185 A/C Heater Core OSC Cooling Products 98024 Diften 685-A0209-X01 - New A/C AC Evaporator GPD 4711435 FOUR SEASONS I see a lot of Four Seasons stuff on RockAuto but I haven't ordered anything yet. It seems a tad more expensive than most of the other brands but I have no idea if it's worth it. Any other brands you might recommend? Jess

My brand new windshield not having a proper seal and soaking my (still factory) carpets during this last round of rain in California has forced my "time to work on the interior" hand. So I pulled the seats/carpets and I noticed there is a white padding that sits on the passenger side between the floor and the jute padding. I assume this is further insulation from the catalytic converter? For any of you guys & gals who've done interior work, what do you replace this with? Mine is soaking wet and disgusting and once I get this windshield fixed I want to clean things up a bit. I got some Noico knock off Dynmat product I'm going to line the cab with and I'm looking at getting a premolded carpet that's either massbacked or comes with new jute padding since mines pretty gross, but the more heat I can keep out the better.

So I just replaced my wheel hub assemblies and, holy crap, I never realized how much noise they were making. Anyway, the driver side was a total pain, used a combination of insane hammering and a trick I saw posted where you use a socket extension and turn the wheel to use power steering to pop the assembly out. When we did get it out, I almost completely pulled the axle out on accident. The passenger side came out with minimal effort. The problem is now I'm getting this "clunk" sound when turning slowly - like when I'm parking and making sharp turns. The only thing I can find that appears loose is the driver side u-joint. I can wiggle it around, the passenger side doesn't budge at all. But it's not like a ton of play, and sometimes I can feel the clunk on the floor board so I feel like there's something else going on. Any thoughts?

Are you guys using Timken Part#: 513107 (89 MJ 4x4 i6)?

Yeah you're right, the ones I linked don't appear to fit - but there is endless supply of cheap ones on Ebay that do. I probably won't go cheapest of cheap - it's just trying to find a good middle ground.

Well since you have the external slave it's probably not as important to replace it as it was for me. But I'd make sure your clutch is good. It's easy to take out the oil pan with the transmission out, so if you have any leaks going on there now's the time to do it. You'll want to use the AX15 bracket since it has the support arm/groove thing for the tongue on the catalytic converter/exhaust and I doubt you want that flapping around. If you have access to the crossmember I'd use it as well.

My front passenger wheel bearings are totally toast - my understanding is you have to replace the whole hub. Does anyone have any recommendations? I was looking at these on Ebay because they are super cheap, but I'm not sure if this is the part I want to go super cheap on. But I'm also broke after my AX15 swap :laughin:

Hello friends. Jess here from Placerville, CA. I've been lurking around here for several years and have been so grateful to have such a fantastic resource. You guys rock! I can only hope to one day return the favor and give useful advice to someone in need. I don't have the technical knowledge many of you have and this certainly won't be the end-all AX15 swap thread but I figured I share my experience and if it helped someone out, awesome! First of all, there is a lot of posts about the AX15 - If you can't find what you need here on CC there is a lot of other AX15 swap threads out there, I found this thread on naxja particularly useful. I also picked up a FSM from Pacific Coast Manuals. Best $7.95 I think I could have spent, especially when it came to finding torque specs. Another good resource for parts if you're in the Sacramento area is J&W Auto Wreckers - I find their prices are a tad on the high side (basically double of most Pick & Pull parts) but they appear to have pretty much everything, including the AX15 bracket which was difficult to find and you don't have to bring your tools and roll around in broken glass. So, I have a 1989 MJ which of course had a Peugeot BA10/5 with the NP231. The internal bearings went and my second gear synchros have been out since I got the truck 6-7 years ago. The repair shop (I tried several, price always the same) wanted $850 to repair the bearings/synchros. I've always wanted to swap for an AX15 but never really had a reason until now. I found one out of a 91 Cherokee with 150k miles in a wrecking yard for $500 with the bellhousing and another $200 for the factory mated NP231. I probably could have swapped the input shaft for a little less, but honestly it was taking so long already I figured it was worth it to get the new one and go. Dropping the Trans: Having the right tools for the job would have made this much easier. Unfortunately we had none of those. If you don't either, I'd recommend renting or borrowing a transmission jack. It was always my plan to do that but my Dad and I backyard mechanic'd it pretty good instead. Our jack died recently, so we borrowed a neighbors which is hilariously tiny for removing a transmission. We used it pretty much for the wheels only. What we did was place a strong steel pipe above the trans tunnel/shifter hole and wrapped a large ratchet strap around the pipe and transmission. This supported it and allowed us to guide the transmission back out of the pilot bearing. Another thing that helps which we didn't have is level ground. Our driveway has a slant to it so we decided to park the truck facing down, which meant pulling the transmission uphill to remove it. I attached a strap from the jack to the rear bumper and a second from the t-case to the bumper, ratcheting both at the same time to back the trans out. It would have worked beautifully except we forgot one of those small bolts at the top of the bellhousing :( Once we got that it it popped right out, go figure. :dunno: We basically used the same strategy to reinstall the AX15, we took the t-case off and used two straps from that same pipe to raise the AX15 up and guide it in. It's not a perfect alignment, there's definitely some precarious finagling but it worked. Yep, zipties. A third strap was added to the axle of the jack to pull it and the trans back simultaneously. Bracket/Mount: My biggest unknown was the mount vs bracket. As I mentioned above I found the "bracket" to be rather elusive. I read several posts where people said they used the Peugeot crossmember with the AX15 mount and it was fine - but since the AX15 mount lacks the catalytic converter support arm I wasn't really sure how that was possible without fabrication work which I don't have the tools to do. If you cannot find the bracket or fab your own, you might try this AX15 Crossmember Mount Kit from Advance Adapters. They told me it would work fine in Comanches but considering the cost difference between having to replace the Peugeot mount vs AX15 mount I decided to try harder to find the bracket. Which I did find for $30 at J&W Auto Wreckers. Top left: AX15 "mount". Bottom left: AX15 support bracket. Right: Peugeot mount. Crossmember: To save myself $70 for an AX15 crossmember I used my original Peugeot one. Since the AX15 has that little dip in it I decided to get some longer bolts and use heavy nuts as spacers to allow the AX15 to sit properly. The crossmember had to be moved to the rear set of holes on the body, which meant taking a sawzall to one of the studs as I couldn't get it out with the other tools I had. Some of the original holes threaded fine, but three of them needed to be chased (10x1.5). Here you can see the nut spacers and new bolts. Transfer Case Linkage: I read several posts where people said you can flip the bracket which bolts to the transmission and make the Peugeot linkage work with the AX15. We popped it out and flipped it, the problem was by flipping it I took it to mean - removing it and plugging it into the same hole from the reverse side. We couldn't make that work at all. So we tried flipping it the other way, plugging it into the smaller hole on the other side of the bracket and bolting the grommet side to the transmission. After some finessing I was able to get it to work - it probably won't last forever but you know, it was free. Reverse Switch: I just cut the connectors off both the AX15 end and the Peugeot end and used quick disconnect connectors. I was out of shrink tube so I wrapped it all up in electrical tape. While I was at it: I had an oil leak so I changed the oil pan gasket, which thanks to advice on a thread I posted it was easy to remove the oil pan without the transmission in. I went ahead and replace the rear main oil seal and the oil pump as well. Conclusion: So glad it's done and I love this thing. I love the way the shifter feels and I think it's a lot quieter. Also huge bonus, I can use second gear lol. I'm so used to having to baby second gear that I still flinch when I shift, anticipating gears grinding. It's not all perfect though - there is an oil leak someplace. It seems to be coming from inside the bellhousing which is making me think the seal on the transmission is bad. I used Mobil-1 10w30 in the AX15 per some recommendations so I can't tell the difference between it and engine oil. It could also be the rear main seal which would also totally suck because that was a huge pain to change. Reverse gear is being a pain to shift into as well, we may need to bleed the clutch again, or something could be going on - I dunno. Right now I'm just happy it's running :yes: Jess

Yeah, new slave came with the clutch kit and based on research here I went with a Luk kit. I filled the oil pump with oil before installing it, tho I think half of it spilled on my head while trying to get it reinstalled. But yeah, I'll prime it.

Thanks for all the replies & info guys, appreciate it! So I took all your advice and found an AX15+NP231J out of a 91XJ with 150k miles for $700. Considering the minimum I was going to be able to get my BA10/5 repaired (not even a full rebuild) was $850 and it has 300k on it, figured it was probably worth it. I know, probably should have went for a 94+ version but, this is what I could find. I placed a large order for parts (ax15 mount/new clutch kit/oil pan+valve cover gasket/rear main seal/oil pump/some other crap) so it's been a lot of waiting. Indeed, the oil pan slipped right out once I was able to pry the concrete-like gasket apart. Replaced rear main seal & the oil pump, slapped some red paint on the oil pan got it back together yesterday. Hopefully it won't leak like a sieve when I'm able to start it up in a couple days. Mount comes Monday and clutch kit comes Tuesday and hopefully I can get this thing mounted and see if it even works lol.

Sorry, back on topic sec... I just realized I have the engine jacked/blocked up via the oil pan for support since the transmission is out. Where do I support the engine since I obviously can't take the pan off with a jack under it :P

Hey thanks guys for the info on the oil pan - I'll probably get to that tomorrow. As for the AX15, you guys may have convinced me. I'll see for sure when this guy gets back to me. In the meantime, I know there is a lot of guides on doing the swap but does anyone have a recommendation for a particular guide?

Hello friends! So the internal bearings went on my BA10/5 (89 MJ) - I pulled it yesterday and I'm waiting for the phone call on the damage. Yes, I'd love to swap it for an AX15 but I'm not sure if it's financially feasible at the moment. We'll see when he comes back with the estimate, if the difference is a few hundred dollars then, maybe. Anyway, my oil pan is leaking and all I read is nightmare stories about getting it out. After looking at it, my Dad seems to think that it would be easier to get the oil pan out with the transmission+backplate+flywheel pulled. Is this a possibility? I would just go for it, but it's my DD and I'm in a bit of a time crunch (another reason I'm hesitant to attempt an AX15 swap). Last thing I want is to break the seal and not be able to get the pan out. Jess

Not between the battery terminals with the battery attached. I'm checking continuity between (what I believe to be) "Fuse Link F" (eyelet from the Starter Relay to the Ignition Switch) to ground, but theoretically it's between the two terminals since the Positive cable is connected to the Starter Relay. With the key off there is no resistance, in the Run position my meter goes up to 50%, when the key is turned all the way to start it moves to 75%. I'm just wondering if that's normal behavior. I've blown two alternators and a battery so far, trying to hunt down where the short is, or what's going on. Spent yesterday looking through the electrical manual and it helped, but I'm not an expert at electrical diagrams so I can't decipher what is normal behavior.

To be reading continuity between the negative and positive terminals when the key is in the Run position?

Thanks 88whitemanche, looks like your right. So I'm assuming I shouldn't be reading to ground from the relay?

Oh crap. I actually put it up on my Drive account first and couldn't get it to post inline so I put it on my Dropbox where it is showing in my post above. It's shared publicly but I guess it's only showing it to me because I'm logged in. Sorry about that. Here's a link to it on my Drive: https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BwTuZs0NEH5iRVNZNGpsQnE3WWs/edit?usp=sharing

Thanks! If I'm understanding that post correctly, the "little box thing" is a grounding post? So I should be reading to ground from it? I haven't had a chance to go out and investigate my truck but what that article talks about sure sounds like my little box thing.

Howdy folks, I'm having some electrical problems in my 89 MJ 4L and I'm hoping some of you guys might have some ideas... It started when I got sick of my battery dying, which would happen on occasion when I would forget to turn off my stereo since it's not on a switched circuit for whatever reason. Anyway, I noticed a spark when attaching the positive terminal to the battery after charging it. Using a meter I discovered there is a direct short between the neg and positive battery connectors. I pulled fuses one by one and that didn't fix it. I then took the nut off of that little box thing near the battery and started reading those eyelets one by one until I found a direct short between the Alternator wire and ground. I checked for a short between the wires to see if the wire melted or something, nothing, so I took the alternator out and found it was directly shorting to ground. I replaced the alternator, wired it in, and checked to make sure it wasn't grounding to the negative terminal again - it wasn't... Good to go I thought!! So I buttoned everything back together, put in all the fuses, connected the negative terminal and when I touched the positive, sparks again. So I started troubleshooting again and discovered that my subwoofer has a short on it. I found another short on one of the older wires connected to that little box thing, its the eyelet that splits. I know that's not very descriptive but it's all I have at the moment and it's the only wire that splits on that terminal. I found the 25a fuse that (at least half of) that wire runs through. Unfortunately, I had to rewire some of my fuses into a new fuse box (due to the CMC drip corrosion) and of course, it's the one fuse not labeled. I then (by accident) metered the wire that runs to my brand new Alternator and discovered that it's grounding again! I hope I didn't fry it when I put all the fuses back in. One other question I have is, what is this thing? (in the red square) I called it "that little box thing" which I'm pretty sure isn't the official name. Should I be reading to ground from some of these wires? One half of the positive terminal is connected to it so I have assumed not. Maybe this is all normal and my battery just died one to many times. Any help would be much appreciated, my trucks been out of commission for like a week because of this and my battery dying - it's starting to get frustrating.

Sorry for another post, you guys are probably sick of me by now! It appears the front oil seal on my BA10 is leaking and if possible, could use some advice on replacing it. My guess is that those bolts need to come out and the plate needs to come off but I'm afraid to unscrew things because I don't want the whole transmission to just fall into pieces :P