thedave360

WOW! I'm glad I read this. When I turn my ac or heat, it only blows through the defroster. I was about to start taking apart my dash to see whats up. I guess I just have to replace some vacuum tubes and maybe a blimp. Thanks!!!

I like where your going with this. I think I'll drain the oil in the t case and see if it looks like someone dropped a bottle of glitter in it. If so, then I'll remove it. but before I do anything, I'll jack it up and try to move the front ds while its in 4hi and 4lo. I hope to God in heaven that its a motor mount. I'd rather do that, than rebuild a t case right now. I have neither the time nor money for that. Thanks for the input guys!!

I Took a little trip tonight. Did some wheeling in 4hi, mostly mud and muck. Hit some pavement, switched to 2wd. When I got back on the gravel road I stopped to put it into 4hi. The lever wouldn't click in. :( I tried fishing it around and got it into 4Lo. When I put it into drive and let off the brake, the truck lurched forward and made a loud BANG then stopped :grrrr: . I was almost certain I just heard my transfer case die. I tried again to get it to do something. It will move in 4hi or 2wd. But it will not stay in 4lo, and if I try to force the lever to stay...it will kick it out into neutral. Also, I'm not completely convinced that the front axle is getting engaged when I put it in 4hi. :ack: Any thoughts as to what happened? ...more importantly, what I'll have to fix?

well! I finally got the bearings changed. It seems like the oil pressure is back :thumbsup: I changed the oil pump, which almost killed me after the second bolt came out and it dropped like a brick. The main and rod bearings were a snap, no big deal. I was extremely methodical not to mis match any caps or install them backward. I also changed the Timing chain and gears. Can someone explain why there is a spring and pin inside the bolt for the cam gear??? And all this was done with the motor in the truck. It was probably about 10 times difficult than having it on an engine stand...but I wasn't set up to pull it out. So, with the increased pressure from the new bearings and the new oil pump I seem to have blown one of the gaskets on the oil filter mount. Didn't notice it until I let the engine warm up one cold morning. Theres a pretty sizable puddle under where the filter is. Apparently it had been leaking for a while since I changed the bearings cause the tranny and oil pan were coated in oil. Thankfully someone posted a link to how to do this in a previous thread I started. Since its Christmas day I won't be able to get a new gasket set now. Next next day I have off I'll get that done and let everyone know how it goes.

Let me get this correct. If the factory put the "M" to mark .010" undersized, I need to get .010" undersized bearings...correct :dunno:

Any advice to make my life easier when I'm changing them? Any thing else I should change while I'm in there, besides the oil pump (I already changed the RMS)? I'm kind of a noob at this but, I need to change the crank bearings and the bearings on the connecting rods right?? I know they have different bearings for the 4.0 with different (correct me if I'm wrong) thicknesses, so which ones do I need? Would it be a good Idea to change the cam bearings too?? Or do I have to take the cam out to do that. Because if so, I'm planning to change the timing chain and water pump while I have this thing torn down, so I guess I could take the cam out then. But it might not work that way. Any and all advice will be much appreciated :thumbsup:

I'm pretty sure you are correct. In most cars that are unibody the roof is important structurally...so you can't just make it a convertible, the rest of the frame/body needs to be stiffened up somewhere else. I guess if you did a good job tying in the rollbars for the top to the unibody it would probably work pretty well. You might have to get a CJ's rollbar kit and bend it to fit and attach it to the truck's structure.

Thanks for being blunt guys. I guess I was just being overly optimistic in that I wouldn't have to re do the bearings. I've never changed bearings before. From what yall have said, it can be done with the motor in the truck. Any advice to make my life easier when I change these things?? What about the cam bearings, can I change those while I have mostly everything apart, or does the cam have to come out for that? Don't worry I'll change my oil pump while I'm down there.

Thanks for stating that eagle, Ive been wanting to say it to, but didnt want to offend. The very least that needs to be done is drop the pan and put in a melling high volume pump. I bought one for my Gr Wagoneer 4.2 years ago from Autozone. Put a pump in it, and re check pressures then go from there. If you still have little to no pressure, time for a bottom end rebuild. I appreciate the replies guys! I agree, the 17 year old electric gauge and sender and 2 $10 oil gauges say I have no pressure. But besides that it does NOT show ANY SYMPTOMS of having no pressure, so I'm thinking I either have to clean out the port or I'm hooking up the mechanical gauges wrong :dunno: ...because its been doing this since I bought it, it should have blown up by now if it had no pressure. I spoke with my cousin who drag races, he said I should bleed the air out of the Mechanical gauge's line so that oil is actually going to the gauge and see if I have pressure. Since this doesn't cost anything i'll try this as soon as it stops raining over here. If I have pressure after that, then it means I just don't know how to hook up oil gauges :dunce: ...If still no pressure, well then I'll be in the market for new bearings and a new oil pump.

I think thats the most Comanches I've ever seen in one place :brows:

Yeah, I see what you are saying. But it doesn't have any other symptoms of no oil pressure. Its not running too hot, no noise from the top of the engine, and no connecting rod hanging out the oil pan... just the gauges. I only use mobil 1 oil filters :thumbsup: So what do I do about a plugged gauge port?? Is there anything I can spray into the port to clean it out...Maybe WD-40, or would that screw something up?

So, my oil gauge says about 10psi while accelerating and nothing while idling...so I put on a mechanical gauge. Its one of the ones that has the clear hose and is made to go in the dash board. I cranked it up and i have no pressure on the mechanical gauge. If I revv it up I can get it to about 25, but as soon as I let off it goes to 0. I can see oil in the clear line trying to make its way to the gauge...but it never does. While its idling I can see oil in the hose near where it goes into the block just kind of spirting back and forth, no solid stream. The thing is, my oil pressure has looked like this since I bought it in March. I had even put a similar mechanical gauge on it then and it did the same thing as today. I've been driving it pretty hard since I bought it. So my question is, is there any way that I actually don't have oil pressure? It would seem to me something would have let go by now. If I do actually have oil pressure, how come I can't measure it???

Thanks for the input guys. If it gets 11-12 mpg, I can live with that because its not my DD...I just wanted to make sure I didn't have something wrong or was messing up the math for the tires. How do I know which injectors from ford will fit my 4.0? I assume this would also come with a nice increase in power.

so i finally got the speedometer to work. I filled up the tank, and noted the mileage. After I made a few 20 mile trips over a few days, and a bunch of slow off road driving, I filled up again and figured out the mileage. Now, the difference in mileage was 133, and I filled up with 12 gallons...this comes out to 11 mpg. BUT, I have 31" tires and my speedo hasn't been adjusted. So I made a trip that I know is 2 miles, and the odo only measured 1.8 miles. Doing some math, I adjusted my mileage to 147 miles, this comes out to 12ish mpg. The truck seems to run fine other than the crappy mileage. Any other ideas, am I missing something?? 92 'manche 4.0 auto 4" lift 31" tires

I don't think it was the piston that messed up the driver's seat. What ruined the driver's seat was probably the same thing that made the gm have to change his drawers :rotf:

I know, but I'd like to tear one down just to see how bad and specifically what kind of damage gets done...just out of curiosity. Not to re build it though.

So, when I bought my jeep, the wiring harness had been eaten by rats near the battery. I replaced it (not fun), and all my gauges seemed to work fine. Then, wanting to replace the idiot lights, I got the gauge cluster out of the same XJ that the wiring harness came out of and put it in my comanche. I also changed the required senders. here's what happened. The tach never worked, then one by one, the gauges stopped working. First the oil pressure read a steady 20psi...at idle, full throttle or off...then then the temp stopped moving off the needle at all..The fuel gauge never got off "E". Then the speedometer went out. So I removed the entire gauge cluster and put the old one back in...with the idiot lights. That speedometer (the original one) worked for about 10 miles and quit. My question is, could there be some problem with the wiring harness because it came out of a 93 XJ and i put it into a 92 MJ? Could there be something wrong with the wiring harness for the dash that plugs into the main harness that would cause the speedo and the other gauges to die? It seems like the idiot lights still work though.

I don't like C4C any more than the rest of you...but I would like to do an autopsy on one of the seized up engines just to see what kind of damage is actually caused by that sodium silicate stuff.

well, I got the fuel pump in, hooked it up and everything is working great. I really wouldn't enjoy changing this pump again anytime soon. Next time (which will hopefully be a long time from now) ill take the tank down and clean it out. Turns out, if you have a 4" lift, you don't need to drop the drive shaft. Also, my comanche has no exhaust system after the catalytic converter, so I was actually able to sit under truck to situate the pump...pretty handy!

Try un plugging the MAP sensor then starting the truck. It should idle better, but it'll start running like crap around 1500rpm. My frontier had an idling problem that turned out to be a very dirty MAP. I cleaned the hell out of it, and now it purrs like pissed off kitten!! Definitely try cleaning it first before you just buy a new one.

Well in between my last post and now, I decided I would just deal with the mess and take the fuel pump out anyway. After breaking the rusted out retainer ring, it came out with no gas. Apparently you can do something like this with more than half a tank--if you park on an incline :brows: The hoses connected to it did, however, leak gas everywhere...but there isn't much I could do about that. So the retainer ring is on order from my favorite auto parts store and should be here tomorrow morning. I should have it all back together tomorrow morning-ish. The key word there being SHOULD. Now I have to get the gas smell off my arms and out my hair :ack: The little woman says its not very attractive lol.

Thanks for the info guys. I'm currently tackling the thing right now. The turning the key thing is not really working, it seems like every 3rd key turn the pump doesn't run and won't for the next couple key strokes. I would really like to hot wire the pump to run constantly, but I have a few safety concerns. There is a REALLY strong concentration of fumes under the truck. I'm concerned that if I start stripping wires and rigging a battery charger to power the pump it may start a fire with all the fumes. I'd really like to not blow me, my jeep, and my patio all to hell while trying to change my fuel pump. Siphoning didn't work. It seems there is some sort of thing blocking the hose from going into the tank :doh: . I'm almost at the point where I could just jam a screwdriver through the bottom of the tank let it drain and figure out how to patch that later :wall: ...almost

Any other ways of draining the tank besides siphoning?? BTW, thanks for all the tips! I definitely wouldn't have thought to disconnect the drive shaft!

So I was driving my Comanche today. I tried to accelerate, and all I got was sputtering. I tried to get up to highway speeds but it could only manage about 20mph and it was running rough the whole time. I pulled on to the shoulder and put it in neutral. When I revved the engine, everything sounded ok. As soon as I tried to take off in drive it would sound like its about to die. Does anyone think this isn't the fuel pump? Because it sounds like it to me. Also, has anyone ever changed one before...and if so, how did you go about doing that??

Anyone know of some places to go trail riding in Louisiana?