terrawombat

Any idea where you're going to mount the canister? Stock location on the '97+ XJs are a little goofy and every late model XJ I've owned has thrown a code or two because of dryrotted/leaking lines on those things.

Good thing you caught it before it became life threatening. Cats aren't as good as humans as telling you there is something wrong. Also, be cafeful not to poke yourself with that insulin needle. Us insulin-producing folks don't need much more than our body produces. Given the size of your cat (although quite large :D ) vs. the size of you, I'm sure one of his shots won't affect you. Just sayin...

I had numerous CL deals on "parts cherokees" fall through over the past week. Had one sold out from underneath me - guy got there 30 minutes before I did and I'm pretty sure I passed him on the highway. Another guy turned into a ghost and ceased communications with me as soon as I tried to close the deal and squeeze an address out of him where I could come look at the vehicle and pay for it. I think I finally got someone to sell me an XJ. He has agreed to hold it for me until this weekend when both him and I will be free. 1999 XJ Classic with 130K miles on the ticker. Apparently runs good and is complete except for a front axle. Going to try and borrow my Uncle's flatbed w/winch so I can drag this XJ up. Of course, I'll try to be as delicate as possible with her...don't want to ruin the engine/trans/transfer case winching it up. Has a couple of big pluses - XJ Classic interior w/adjustable headrests, power drivers seat, and NP242 transfer case (or so I'm told). Hopefully it doesn't get sold before I can get to it. I'll keep this thread updated (as if anyone actually cares lol)

I've had no problems with my account and have been actively uploading to it for the past few days. I will say that that opening the Photobucket website on a 1000MHz CPU w/128Mb of RAM is probably one of the most frustrating experiences I've ever had to deal with in computerland. It literally took me 20 minutes to copy two links from the site and paste them into a post on here.

Right where the oil pressure sender threads in.

The 4.0L on my '88 Pioneer does the same thing. Figured that with only 78K miles on it, I'd have some prem-o oil pressure, but when I swapped in the full gauge cluster I was let down. At cold start-up it hovers around 40 psi, but once it's warmed up, best I can do is maybe 20psi. Usually sits between 10-15psi. Also verified it with a mechanical gauge, so I'm thinking I have bearing issues. Just haven't had the time to drop the pan and take a look for myself. If the engine didn't run hot all the time, I'd probably just do what 1987Comanche does and just drive it till it quit... Now, you could also have a bad cluster. The first full cluster I put in must have had some sort of water damage and all of the gauges except for the tach read too low. The oil pressure gauge never moved a bit no matter how much I revved the engine, just sat around 0psi, even with a brand new oil pressure sender. My mechanical gauge was showing 35-40psi at cold idle. Even passed the test that Eagle described above, so that's not the end-all-be-all of determining whether or not your cluster is fine.

Ah, aluminum, that's what I meant...heh It'll probably make more sense when I'm sitting inside of the stripped down truck and I look at your pictures. I think if I was able to easily mount the dash, it'd be motivation for me to get back into that project...

That is about where I got with mine before I said screw it and walked away. That was several months ago. Too many other projects have come up since then, but I might get back to it this winter... Do you have any other pictures of that angle iron piece you made?

I would sure hope that any engine/transmission/rear end from 2002 and newer would be better than something offered in 1984-1986, if that's the comparison you want to make.

Started on another one. Still need to work on it some more with 120 grit to get some imperfections out. Also want to pick up some 600 grit and higher so I can get a smoother finish in the end. Before: After:

Thanks. That'll be step 2 sometime down the road. The other four rims don't have much, if any, clearcoat peeling on the painted portion so when I clean those lips up, they should look pretty good - at least good enough to throw them on my '92MJ and call it good for a while. I measured the tread depths just now and compared them to the specs on brand new tires. Three of the tires are Goodyear GS-A's and have between 45-64% tread life left, although it's actually much less than that since I normally replace my tires when they get near 15-20% tread. The other two tires are Goodyear SilentArmor and they both have 94% tread life left, practically brand new. Thinking of taking two of the GS-A's off and buying two new SilentArmor's for four matching tires that are all close in tread life. Could also present a good opportunity to strip those two rims down and repaint them.

Bought the wheels/tires. Two of the tires are brand new with about 100 miles on them. Third tire looks like it was the spare and also doesn't have many miles on it. Last two tires look like they have well over 50% tread life left. I will measure them later to figure out the exact percentages. Decided to start with the worst of the five rims. This one definitely needs all of the paint stripped off and a repaint. Figured it would be a good rim to practice on in case I screwed up. The rear of my XJ was already up on jackstands to try and locate potential rear u-joint noise so I removed one of the rims, installed the Ravine, put the XJ in 1-2, applied the handbrake a bit so the wheel wasn't turning super fast. Started with 400 grit sandpaper but it simply wasn't doing anything but scratching what clearcoat still remained. Next lowest paper I had was 120 grit, so I gave it a shot. Stuck it to a block of wood and carefully sanded down the clearcoat on the lip. I then went to 400 grit and wet sanded it until it smoothed out. Then I used some metal polish and here are the results: Before: After: Not perfect, but a definite improvement. Like I said before, this wheel needs to have all of the clearcoat and paint stripped off and a repaint.

Great idea! I'm mainly only concerned about the lips at this point. I could care less about the painted centers - they look good enough for my tastes. Don't know why I didn't think of this myself as this is exactly how I polish the lip on the back wheel of my motorcycle. Put it up on the center stand, put it in first, and polish away! Takes practically no time at all...except that pesky stick-on weight doesn't feel too good every time it goes around. Thanks!

Agreed. If they're dry rotted, I'll throw them on my '88 Pioneer for now, which I use to run errands and go to Home Depot...just waiting for the engine to explode.

Ok, I think I'm going to pick them up then. The seller said he would hold them for me and I already have "softer" wire wheel for my drill as well as some metal polish. At the very least, it'll be a good learning experience.

How did they come out? Yes, I believe the center part of these rims are painted. The paint seems to be in decent shape, for the most part. I'm on the fence with these as they don't come around very often at all...

I got pictures of the rest of the rims from the seller...

I found a set of Ravine rims on CL, but the guy didn't take very good care of them it seems - had them sitting outside for years. The tires are almost brand, spanking new, but the rims have quite a bit of corrosion and clearcoat peeling on the lip. I've never attempted to sand a rim down or repaint it so I'm not sure if it's worth the effort or not. The one pictured below might be the best looking one of the bunch...

The gold ZJ Timberline wheels you have up on your page are from the WJ Limited's. The ZJ's have the additional little spokes as shown in your silver and green examples.

hornbrod, kind of surprised you don't have a set of these on your truck: From the same place you linked the black version from. They actually have a variety of Ravine styles there. Price isn't terrible, either... Naw, too gaudy. I do have limits. :yes: If I could find a really nice set of the old school 10-spoke turbine wheels and caps that's probably what I would have............

To the best of my knowledge, the Silverstar was an option on 1998 Sahara models only. Edit: I take this back. It looks like your 2000-2002 may be correct. I was basing this off of the fact that two of my friends have Saraha TJ's with these rims and I thought they were '98 models. turns out one is a '00 and another is a '01.

360MJDude Build thread: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=18611 Youtube video: 5.9L Magnum. Very badass.

I can also take a shot of the Icon wheels that I have such that it's just a single rim with a concrete/blacktop background, much like many of the images on your web page.

Correct method. Highly recommended. Lazyman's method. Not recommended.

Icon On the Grizzly rim - they come in two colors - silver and gray. (Edit: But I'm not sure if they came in both colors for the XJ. My comment is only for the TJ).