1974CJ5

I knew a guy that made one out wet vac parts :nuts: , it worked really well, but it did look like wet vac part stuck on the side of his jeep (it was a 80ish CJ). So if you don't care what it looks like, there is one idea.

:agree: I think sometimes the guys on here are so car savvy they are burned out on the discovery part of the conversion processes! I am a graphic designer and all day I am looking at images, and working with computers and walking to printer, and putting up with latté drinkin' types. Don't get me wrong I love my work but, there is something about getting greasy and making things better than they were before and accomplishing things that are so foreign to me that really makes my weekend. Now if I could just weld and fabricate! Don't mean to highjack, just glad that someone has the same perspective I have.

Sweet! I will repair the vacuum leak and report back with any improvements...

I agree about steam and electronics and I am far from offended (I would be offended to find out that you knew steam hurt electronics and didn't post), but I am not sure if you are aware of what a scunci steamer is... (and if you do, I stand corrected or perhaps you were not addressing my post at all) it is a dinky little hand held device that puts out a low pressure jet of steam about as big around as a pencil, you can easily avoid electronics or anything else you don't want steam getting into when using it, this is precisely why I stole it from my wife.

Well its beginning to sound more and more like this is how it's supposed to be, but it seems to be a lot of oil. I pulled the line that connects to the rear of the valve cover and and it was clear, but I did discover that the other end of the metal line doesn't go into a hose, it seems that the hose that is attached under the throttle body (I think, it was dark) is rotted off, so the metal line is just going to nowhere. I plan on fixing this anyway, but could this be the cause of at least some of the oil?

Well, I pulled the hose near the front of the valve cover and it is just a 90 degree fitting, should there be something else there? I am beginning to wonder if the previous owner had problems with the pcv and just took it out and replaced it with a 90. I don't know enough about how things are supposed to look to know what I should be seeing.

Gosh! :eek: I wish they could all be center diff, so you wouldn't have a weak side.

you still need a O2 sensor in the exhaust pipe to keep your CEL from coming on. You can put a test pipe in it, just take it to a muffler shop, that isn't scared to do a test pipe and have them weld a sensor bung on it and screw it in. (Your best bet would be to take them your cat when you finally get it off, tell them you are making a trail rig that will never ever be driven on the street, and ask them to make you a test pipe to replace your cat with a sensor bung on it)You could also find a O2 sensor delete/simulator if you didn't want to do that, but they are expensive, and I don't trust them. With the O2 sensor out, you are running in open loop mode, which is not good for all circumstances, it probably won't hurt anything but you could be running rich sometimes, and lean others, and your efficiencies will suffer. OBDII vehicles will often still throw a CEL with o2 sensored test pipe, but these old trucks will probably be fine. bigd44889 said that you will lose some low end torque and you will, it should be minimal, but you may notice it.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=3576 http://www.marylandjeepclub.org/phpBB3/ ... 1&p=149513 Here is some posts to might find interesting, might help you but not exactly what you are looking for either.

I have oil in my breather box :fs1: . So I am assuming it is the PCV or CCV. I just thought I would post here and see what you guys thought before I just went on assumptions. I searched the forums but all the posts pertained to the 4.0, mine is a 2.5. So I was just checking, if any 2.5 guys had any advice...

My wife has a Scunci Steamer, that I thought was dinky and worthless, boy was I wrong it cleans engine and wheels like a mad mofo with out all the pressure! so I stole it from her. :D

:agree: But: I have jumped in cars that haven't been filled up in a long long time, and more often than not the fuel is still okay, not optimal by any means, but will suffice. I think its probably more likely (disclaimer: I'm no expert) that while the gas was sitting any rust/dirt/debris inside the fuel system got a good chance to settle, and when you fired it up you have clogged something, like a fuel filter or injector. A throttle position sensor can also have the symptoms you describe. You are starting in the right place, try getting rid of the fuel, and if that works congratulations!

I can tell I am not near as knowledgeable as any other person posting on this thread but... Wouldn't a heavy flywheel help with the low end torque to race on up in ridiculously high gears? Do you have plans to add down force to the rear end? Since you have no weight back there. Are you going to be higher in the back than in the front, or have some sort of front lip to help keep drag off of your undercarriage? I think this record is attainable for this truck. The doubters; using the corvette as an example is valid, but those cars are more interested in 0-60 times than top end. German spec VW's that everyday people are driving on the autobahn are turning ridiculously high top speeds for the hp ratings they have. More knowledgeable posters feel free to tear this a new one, Just if/when this truck makes history I wanted to make sure I got a post in here! :D

maddzz1 that is a good idea about the classifieds section, I always freakin forget that there is even a classifieds section on this forum., I will do that if my already planned trip to pullapart this weekend turns up no results.

:agree: I apologize for the sarcasm, the post just hit me the wrong way on a couple points. One of the things that I really like about this forum is that there isn't much back and forth trash talking, (look on a honda forum yeesh!) I don't want to be viewed as trying to be like one of those people, so I do apologize. Back to the issue, I think the possibility of the temp sender (switch or whatever you want to call it) being bad is probably very likely. I need to check that before I move on to anything else (it's not getting hot now, but I don't want it to not be working and it really get hot.) Can this be checked with an ohmmeter?

Um, okay, it's not my intention to get in a pi$$ing match with you, but don't insinuate that my post is BS! and expect me to not retaliate! If you truly are trying to help, I really appreciate it, and with the assumption that you are really only trying to help; here is the information: "If the engine / cooling system was hot enough to turn on the light, or even hot enough to be at normal operating temperature, removing the radiator cap WOULD have resulted in a geyser, the radiator cap being launched, and your father getting scalded." Well that just didn't happen. After a 40 min round trip drive with only about 10 minutes to cool down after the first 20 minutes, and then an additional maybe 2 minutes of cool down before the radiator cap was popped, I don't see much chance of cool down. Plus a thick rag does wonders on saving you from getting scalded when removing a radiator cap. "If your radiator was full but not getting hot, is it possible it was frozen?" What was the air temperature, and what temperature is your anti-freeze good for? No not frozen, the coolant tested at -40 degrees taken with a tester. The temperature that day was 10 degrees Fahrenheit (which could result in a cool down faster than average, but not enough to significantly lower pressure in that amount of time I wouldn't think. Also, is it possible that your water pump isn't pumping? Or that your thermostat is stuck, either closed or partially closed? This could be possible, but I don't think it would be very likely since I have driven it everyday since, and no overheating has occurred.

I would recommend rust bullet (summit racing has pretty good pricing). POR15 is a great product, and I don't blame you if you use it but: Rust bullet requires alot less prep and is tough as nails and no need for topcoats as it is uv resistant (available in grey and black i believe ((I used the black))). I did the entire frame of a CJ5 after I sandblasted it (not required) with 2/3rds of a quart of rust bullet, and I think it was 30 bucks or so (don't quote me on that). If you let it run and it dries you will be at with a hammer and screwdriver to ever get it let go, and then it comes off only because you removed a thin layer of the metal is it attached to. It bonds to skin just as well, so if it dries on you NOTHING will get it off. The best solution to get it off your hands is to put on rubber gloves and get your hand really hot so you will sweat under it. Also make sure you don't shake the can, only stir or you will battling air bubbles! http://www.rustbullet.com Check it out, I am a fan! Read the FAQ on the website, but it will work if you just sand it real good and brush it on. Pretty hardcore shiznit!

Sounds like your really recall the swap quite well, and know your stuff. You will probably rue the day that you let me know that you did this swap already when I start hounding you with questions... since you and many others have been a huge help already, you guys have even got me down to what model year I am looking for. Thanks alot to all of you. :bowdown: Maybe one day you guys will start on a CJ and I can repay some of the help...

Thanks for the heads up, on that I will begin my search... Would the rest of the drivetrain make a difference? For instance: Mine is a 1987 2.5 w/ ax4 and 3.55 gears So if I got one out of a say 88 2.5 w/ax5 (or an automatic even) and 4.10 gears would that still be compatible? Or should I wait until I find all the stuff I am going to do for my drivetrain swap? Which I will be driving it for a while before the perfect donor vehicle for the perfect price is located I am sure. :doh: Or is the only dash available for a 2.5 xj or mj of that era going to be the idiot light type like the one I already have?

That is a great write up!! Thanks man! In another post some guys where telling me how plug and play these things are, but I didn't think they were to that extent, The tach even works without modification! New project for this weekend!

Well holy crap I must of witnessed a miracle! Like a statue of Mary crying blood! Your guess is wrong the radiator was full even after what little bit (now when I say little bit, I mean not geyser like, but the expected amount) came spewing out. The quote "It aint hot" was his way of saying the engine wasn't hot. The coolant was quite hot, but not steaming, shooting radiator cap into orbit hot. It is a 1987 with a 2.5. Unless of course no one, not even superman, could own a truck manufactured in 1987 with a 2.5 in it. Anyways, Are there any write ups on switching to the full cluster with gauges? Also so I am assuming that the fact that the overheat light comes on when the key is turned to the on position (not after starting) is only verification that the light bulb in the dash still works, no verification on the actual switch correct?

This situation happened to me a couple weeks ago: I am driving to town, about a 20 min. drive and I notice my temp. light is on (seeing as that is all my truck has is a light no gauge which is just freaking sweet ::dripping with sarcasm:: .) I quickly pull into a parking lot; turn it off, pop the hood, and jump out. I am looking in the reservoir (which is full) and looking for steam and using my "skin thermometer" (my hand) to see if the engine felt or looked hot, no perceivable problems. I know the thermostat was open because I was getting heat from the heater. I am a hot coolant coward since I poured 5 gallons of water on my arm that was past it boiling point before in my life, and so far that is the most pain I have ever felt, you skin falls off over the course of a week, leaving what looks like a thin white membrane covering your muscles... gross painful not going there again! So I decided, well I will limp it home and watch for steam. Well the light would come on for a few seconds and then go out, and repeated all the way home. So I get it home and still no signs of overheating, my dad who has no fear of anything except lightening (this is not me bragging about him either, he's one of those people that has only survived this long because his guardian angel is apparently really really on top of things, and you don't want to be too close to him no matter what he is working on.) He just grabs a rag and pops the radiator cap off which its still at whatever temperature it was 2 minutes after I shut it off. I am partly expecting coolant to come out like old faithful, but it didn't it just come out under normal pressure. At which time my dad had it all over his hand, and said "Nope, I't aint hot." And ever since he took the cap off under pressure the light has never come on again, any ideas as to why this is?

mjeff87 thanks for the link to your write up, I promptly bookmarked it, every minute of knowledge saves hours of cussing, and hundreds of dollars! Do you think that dodging added PIA of the interior/dash harness process is worth giving up the little bit of extra power found in the newer 4.0's? I was thinking of going with an 89 or so model xj anyway, I just wondered what your opinion was. The proper 89 model should provide me with a 4.0, an ax15, and a np231.

I knew what you meant. Power outlet is easier to understand than Lighter well. Lighter well could be interpreted in text only message to read like: Lighter, well. I think some folks were confused as to whether I meant the outlet/lighter well, or the actual handled piece that has the coil that heats up in it. I know what you mean about it being funny, kind of like KFC used to be Kentucky Fried Chicken until someone decided that the word fried is bad. One of these days marketing departments might figure out we are not stupid, but I doubt it because every light duty truck in the world still has IFS :mad:. (which is why I love MJ's.)

If it is the same part that fits the XJ with the same motor and year. http://www.cyberjeep.com has them for 89.99 I would also check out walck's they usually have really good prices and get most anything that is made. Their website is pretty shakey so I would just call them @: 610 852-3110 In my home town O'reilly's autoparts are almost always the cheapest, if you don't have an o'reilly's you probably have a CSK (same company). Thats the best advice I know of, other than trying a used one from the JY. If you have a pullapart near you that has the part (http://www.pullapart.com) the cost would $5.78 plus $0.57 for a warranty on it.