beaterheep

by putting the plate where he did it should be around a stock length. however i don't see that design as very safe, as the shock plate isnt meant to be used to hold the axle in place. get some regular u bolts and fab a shock mount to weld to the axle. i mounted my shock plate to the top plate when i did my spring over and it rode like shiat, made some tabs from 3x16 steel and welded them to the axle, bolted a cherokee 4" lift shock to the upper mount and let it hang, guestimated where to mount the lower mount and welded it on. ive got full compression and droop with no binding and it works out great, at full flex from the ground to the center of the rear wheel flare ive got about 4'6 extended and 2'7 compressed, so yeah, it flexes out nice. ill try to remember to snap a pic of the mount tomorrow for you...

i patched a fist sized spot on my frame right above the pass side spring hanger. used 3/16" steel and went 4" past the rotted area. havent had any problems

timing is off, if i remember right those are a 2cyl?? clean the plug, make sure all your grounds are clean and tight, i believe the cdi box controls the spark on those??

got the new-to-me plow frame setup on the arb bumper, ended up fitting friggen awesome, tomorrow ill slap the pump together and mount it all up---fyi i paid a whopping 100 bucks for the arb(its for a toyota, made my own brackets and youd never know it is for a different truck) and i got the plow blade, frame, push plate, pump, wiring, controller, lights etc etc for a whopping $25. i love massachusetts...

I'm liking the fsj gate, any specs or write up on how you made it work?

i just built mine, some 3x4 angle iron, weld on d rings from tractor supply, and some scrap 3/16" plate for side caps, bashed both my lower quarters the other day so ill be using some scrap 2" square stock for side rails too. i also countersunk a hitch in my bumper, but now its too high for my trailer even with a 5" drop hitch, so ill be mounting a lower hitch

that looks like a factory longbed rollbar, shortbed bars mounted to the forward slanted part of the wheelwell

mine did the same thing, i set a prybar on the cps and just barely tapped it with my hand, that was 3 weeks ago and its been perfect ever since, think mabye it was just corroded...

if you don't mind a bit of a roadtrip I'm in belchertown, probably 45 mins from you mabye? I'm sure i could create something thatd work for you if you want

only once in a rare while. usually it fires right up

blue wire with a bullet connector is positive, black wire is negative, comanches came with 2 blue and 2 black wires for either single or dual liscense plate lights

so, noticed this today when leaving my parents house, went to start the tank and it fired up and almost immediatly died out again, happend 3 times then it started, revved to 3k then leveled out and was fine, did it again later in the day, its been fine since and was fine before it happened, I'm thinking the iac must have been sticking? going to clean the whole throttle body tomorrow, any other ideas??? its an 88 4.0 ba-10 trans/231 t case

looking to lift the manche, need either the rear bolt on soa or some lift leafs, anyone have anything?

yep, mine broke the exact same way, my solution was zip ties lol

triggers a miantenance light at certain intervals, i ripped mine out. its useless

cleaned the fuse box with brake cleaner. replaced missing or broken fuses, made a new fuse holder for the brake/haz slot. holy crap everything works, well, after i ripped out all the old stereo crap, trailer harness, and wires to no where thanks to the old owner....new clutch master goes in this week

looked at it better in the daylight today. clutch master is leaking..dammit.. part is cheap, looks easy to do, hoping i don't need to replace who whole fusebox. for now i jammed a rag above the fusebox to keep the brake fluid drips to a minimum can you replace the fusebox seperatly or do you need to replace the whole harness?

yep, thatd be what my box looks like, and the missing spot in those pics is the burnt spot on my fuse box, so ill be doing the fused jumper trick to test if that works, have to probe the dome/dash light fuse spots like he mentioned and see if i can get it going, if not then ill tap into the parking lights for a dash light power source

ill search for that pic. think ill pull the fuse box tomorrow and check it out better, i know it shifts great and seems to have a newer clutch, don't see any signs of leaks either so hopefully it was a past problem and not a new one!!

very little if any greasy goo. actually looked like someone had whacked the fusebox with their foot at some point, as most of the fuses were cracked or broken, i replaced all of them and thats when i noticed the bad fuse spot for the brake/hazard. one terminal is fine, the other is burnt/melted. the fuse was stuck in there good, had to pick it out

no ac, no options, everything is manual lol, kept it simple. looked at the trailer wiring the p.o. did and its all seperated and done right, think ill remove it anyway, but that dosnt look like the problem. blinkers, reverse, and parking lights all work good, just the brake lights/hazards blow the fuse, so i know the rear ground is good, i put a 15 amp fuse in it and it worked for awhile then poof no more. grrr....

its a stick

sidebar- the "etr" fuse(clock and radio from what I'm reading?) blows as soon as i stick a fuse in it, any fuse, amp rating dosnt matter, p.o. has the radio wired off the "clock" position in the fuse box. wtf? thinking if i rip out the radio and wiring ill find something weird, as for the brake lights/hazzard lights issue i may just use an aux fuse block to replace that one melted fuse area, i need one for the aux lights and so on anyways...

lol, i though of that. figure if it dosnt start smoking anywhere then theres no problem right?---fire extinguisher at the ready--- anyone else have any ideas?

ok, so i figured out a bunch of the stupid little problems, but these have me stumped. first of all-brake lights/hazard lights- blinkers work fine, parking lights work fine, headlights work fine, reverse lights work fine. when i put a fuse in the brake light/hazard light fuse spot they work awhile then the fuse melts/pops, the socket the fuse goes into is also slightly burnt looking. what could cause this and can i bypass that fuse slot and just add a fuse inline? seems that the burnt slot is part of the problem. second-dash lights- they don't work, at all, high beam and blinker indicators work but the dash lights themselves don't. fuse is good. any ideas?