redneck23ms

thanks. i just went out and measured mine and the lowers are around 17/5" and the uppers around 16.75" that explains why the coils are bowed forward and hitting the bumpstop cups. i didn't look to see if the arms were hitting the arm pocket but i flexed it out earlier and didn't notice it. but the bumpstop cup was getting hung up on the coil before the bump hit the axle.

i'm dealing with 6.5" lift consisting of 4.5" coils and 2" spacers. and the coils are hitting the bumpstop cups and the castor appears to be off. i have RE adjustable uppers and lowers. what length should my arms be?

i'm pretty sure the front shocks will be the same.

here's a pic of mine. just got it back together today. has 4.5" coils with 2" spacer up front ans soa rear with 8.8. front is trimmed to the outised edge of where the stock flares were and rear is trimmed and folded. tires are 34"ltb's . i could easily clear 35-36's how it sits now. i might even pull out the spacers on the front.

if the spring bushings are worn out it will cause it to sit lower on one side. i had that happen on mine. instead of fooling with the string and all just climb under there and measure from the top of the axle tube to the frame on each side and see how much difference there is between them.

all the disco does is seperate the 2 piece passenger side axleshaft. when it is engaged the front axle acts just like a non-dico axle. the spider gears is what keeps the axles from being locked together while turning etc.

i don't think it would be a valve seal. if a valve seal was leaking that bad to be dripping out of the intake. first of all there would be a very bad vaccum leak at the intake and it would also be smoking like a freight train.

went ahead and cut the reaf fenders today. i cut the lower lip off then did the cut/fold for the rest of it. turned out pretty good except for all of the cancer in that area. i also cut the rear quarter panels at the body line.

did you ever find the pics of the cut/fold for the rear fenders?

how does the clayton kit attach to the uni rails? by looking at the pics its only held on by the 4 stock crossmember bolts. if that is the case i'd look for something other than that.

thanks pingpong.

this is mainly a trail rig. it will see some street time but very few miles. thankfully here in mississippi we can have the tank in the bed. they aren't too bad about inspections here. just gotta have all the lights and horn, seat belts, good windshield. everything else is pretty lax. i drove my old cherokee around for a year without doors and none of the cops ever said a word about it. again though it was also mainly just a trail rig. probably didn't put over 1500 miles on it in a years time if that much.

i actually did patch the stock tank with jb-weld but the holes were in a bad spot right under the straps. plus it had some bad pitting all over the rear bottom of it that was also going to fail soon.

there is rubber around the pump at the mounts so its not touching metal anywhere. actually my oem one still works. but the tank was rusted out and leaking. which i was planning on relocating the tank to the bed anyways. with the fuel cell i have more room in the bed and it looks better.

yes the hoses are clamped on. but so are the hoses on the stock tank. and it is mounted about as high on the frame rail as it could go. much higher than the stock tank was and alot more out of harms way. and for the record i'm not intentionally trying to reject everything said. i'm just stating my opinion. we all have one

the only thing out of spec with the way i did it is that its not covered in gas. but tell me how that is different then when the tank is nearly empty? and i agree it may not be the best pump for this setup i just can't see where it is unsafe. and i agree it will probably run a few degrees warmer mounted the way it is than when in the tank with 1/2 tank or fuel or more. and i will address the wire not being fully insulated at the connection. even though i don't see that as a big deal either since i don't go wheeling in piles of scrap metal. i will also put the pics back up so others will know what we are talking about.

you can call me a troll or whatever. and i appreciated some of the responses that i got. i only erased my posts so all of the bickering and bs would stop. there are enough quotes on here for yall to continue if you would like.

whatever dude. i erased all of my posts just so you can sleep better at night

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are yall this whiney about everything? worse than a bunch of women.

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stock xj fuel pump mounted on the frame.

no need to cut a hole for the sending unit since i won't be running one. the cell is full of foam and has a bottom sump so i'll be running an external pump.

any reccomendations for an externally mounted fuel pump that doesn't cost an arm and a leg. i will be mounting a fuel cell in the bed.

i have one that i will trade for an xj pump. my mj tank is leaking so i'm going to install a fuel cell in the bed.