mjbret13

Any good ways to take everything apart to clean and lube?

I have recently replaced my speedometer cable in the mj today. It drove fine on my way to work, but on the way back it started to bounce more like it skips cause bounces between 60-65 although I'm keeping with traffic flow in the fast lane doing roughly 70. The cable is out of a 90 Cherokee that had roughly 168xxx on its clock and was a 4wd model with the aw4. Mines a 2wd pegout. What could the problem be?

Just had this happened to me earlier in the week. Got it fixed yesterday. Cracked the factory weld.

Power lock model xjs I know for a fact had two relays in the passenger footwell side panel responsible for power locks. If mjs have those then I suggest checking those. Also the passenger door is the master lock control and drivers is just a slave. Xjs are well known for a slight current loss in the passenger side front door harness which caused problems with all the other locks. The addition of two more relays will solve this issue if you have it. It's a must have if you want keyless entry.

First off it's an 88 eliminator 2wd with 217xxx miles. It likes to melt fuses for the blower- it gets warm with the selector in the off position, the clock/radio memory fuse has no power coming to it. No evidence of leaky clutch master. Back when I bought the truck I had to run new wires to the gauge lights and hvac center light, as when it was factory if I jumped power from fused hot on the head light switch to the orange wire to the lights, it would blow the fuse. I have an extra headlight switch plug in good condition waiting to be installed as I am just using spade connectors on the switch. I already have a head light harness installed. I like the simplicity of a basic jeep with no power options since I had an 89 xj loaded with options but everything worked as it should. The eliminator is another story and I'd love to get it fixed. So far I have added load carrying relays to the blower circuit which are only triggered by the factory wiring and gets there power from the battery with a 20 amp fuse just like factory and it so far haven't gave me any problems even on the hottest day of the year.

Mine was somewhat a similar story. When I had bought it , the PO pulled the head 5 years prior to me buying it. There was a head in the passenger seat wrapped in garbage bags and tape, the top of the motor was only protected by its hood, and a garbage bag full of little bags that were luckily labeled laid on the floorboard. After waiting for parts, I had it running within 2 weeks.been driving it since.

I've locked my keys in so many times I've figured out to slim Jim it with a coat hanger in less then 5 minutes. Gotta love having new window trim.

I'm just going to get another harness and redo all of the factory grounds within the engine management harness. That should solve all of the grounding problems that reek havoc with engine problems.

Since discovering my problem is caused by the c101 connector I have since then cleaned the hell out of it and it's been running fine since. I am on the look out for the engine wiring harness out of a 89.5-90 xj or mj just so I can eliminate the c101. Also clear up that spot on the firewall. Plus my harness has hardly any of its wires bundled together like they should anymore. I do admit installing the wiring cover off an H.O has cleaned up the wiring a lot.

Picked up this beaut back in March '13. 88 Comanche Elimitantor 4.0 5speed 2wd . Suffered from a cracked head and had been sitting for 5 years in a field with a used head in the passenger seat and a Dana 44 in the bed along with parts. PO started the 4wd swap by swapping in a non disconnect front axle out of a Cherokee. Unknown gears at this time. Cleaned up the cylinders, slapped the head on and she started up and passed good ol' California emissions. Haven't done much to the jeep since I bought it. Just slapped the cooper at's off my old 89 xj which are 30x9.5 which have very good tires. Also swapped in my stereo system. I will post photos once I dig them up.

Seemed to fix the problem for now but I still have a high ohm reading between ground at the battery and the TPS sensor. I have cleaned the c101 connector the best I could do in the cold and dark last night. Reading went from 12 to 10 ohms of resistance but I want to make it as low as possible. I think I'm going to give my self a project and lable all the injectors and remove the engine side of the harness and clean all the grounds to get it lower. Even possibly install a grounding jumper to bypass the c101 to see if that helps. Is there any good write ups to remove the c101 or should I just pull the harness off a 89 or 90 xj or mj?

88 comanche. Was running fine till a trail wheeling trip on New Year's Day. Lately it loves to high idle at 3000 rpm. There are no vacuum leaks or loose manifold bolts. Lately it would randomly idle at 3000 but shutting the jeep off and starting right back up had been solving the problem. Yesterday I replaced the IAC which gave me no problems during the test drive. After letting the jeep cool down I went to drive it, there it went back to 3000 rpm idle. The TPS was adjusted the day before per cruiser54's instructions. I have also done the ground refreshing.

I am having the same exact problem with my 88 also. So far I have replaced the iac and adjusted the TPS per cruisers instructions.

Yesterday I got my head lights and markers working. Had to get rid of the head light switch and use a toggle. Triggers the factory relay for markers and the relays in the homemade headlight harness. Also ran new wire to the gauge lights and climate controls. I have cleaned all the grounds and added grounds. If I get another factory head light switch connector I can get it re installed. Wasn't thinking when I cut one of the wires too short from the plug to splice back in.

Just joined Comanche club today sing I bought my first Comanche 2 weeks ago with a cracked head. Since then I've gotten a new head on. Now here's the problems. There was no power to anything. The relays would click and motor will crank but everything inside cab is dead. List of dead Gauges Hvac Radio Cluster lights Warnings Hazards Brake lights Parking lights Interior lights Turns So far replacing fuses have fixed Brake lights Gauges Warning lights Turns Radio Glove box light works now also. There is still no gauge lights or parking lights.