agamble

Steering – (1-ton and Double Shear Track Bar) There was a clunk in the front end of the truck that had been present for a long while. After replacing the control arms with a set from a 99-04 WJ, a sway bar (with new bushings) from a V8 ZJ, and inspecting all the components for wear and tear, it was still there. One evening driving across town I hit a pot hole and the death wobbles started, there is nothing more freaky than having your truck wander the road while you hold the steering wheel dead center. After having it occur while driving 65 mph on the highway while being in the middle lane of three lanes of traffic, it was quickly decided to fix the problem. Upon my arrival home I placed an order for the 1-ton steering upgrade from SeriousOffroad (I had the 1-ton steering from JCR on a previous jeep and loved it, however Serious had the same parts but in place of the reamer you can get inserts) and a double sheer track bar from IronRockOffroad. Both instructions are very straight forward, first remove old parts (taking care to retain the mounting hardware for the old track bar mounting bracket). I started with installing the track bar as it was alot easier to access with all the steering components out of the way. Simply mount the new bracket on with the old hardware, then measure the length and install the track bar, keep the nut loose for final adjustments after a test drive. The steering instructions are very simple and direct. The steering knuckles and pitman arm need to be drilled out to 7/8" for the 3/4" inserts to slide into. To drill the knuckles I used a 5/8" bit then stepped up to a 7/8" bit, taking care to keep it centered and not let the bit wander. The knuckles were soft as butter and drilled out in 10 minutes. The pitman arm I knew was going to be harder so I had removed it and mounted it into a bench vice. Well after 30 minutes of drilling burning through my bit and making no progress I opted to take it to a machine shop. After going to 4 different shops I finally located one that was able to drill out the pitman arm. While at the shop I went to put the insert in and it would slide in easily, the machinist says here let me see it, walks to a press and pressed it in, all good i think. I get home and go to pit the tie rod into the pitman arm and crank it down, only to find there's not enough space to thread the castle nut on to put the cotter pin in. After a few email with SeriousOffroad its decided that its best to remove the insert open the hole so the insert slides in by hand. He says he'll mail a new insert, great. After waiting almost two weeks, no insert ever comes. So I revert to plan A, using a dremel I slowly removed material on the inside of the insert until I could get the tie rod to seat flush and snug, taking care to keep it centered so it won't wallow out over time from every day use. Once I am satisfied with the fit out comes the grinder and i slowly grind away material from the top of the pit man arm. Stopping very frequently to see if I cab thread the castle nut on enough to insert the cotter pin. Once the nut was threaded on far enough I finished the install, did a driveway alignment and took it for a test drive. Its been 3 weeks since it was all installed, the clunk is gone, and the steering is better than it was before.

Does that mean your temp gauge was indicating correctly (~210* op temp) before that day? Also, do you know the p/n of the gauge temp sensor you used? Yes, it was indicating correctly then just stopped. I don't recall the temp gauge sensor p/n.

I have swapped it out twice. I thought that the first time but even with a second brand new thermostat it stays the same. Honestly that has not occurred to me, I might try a different gauge and see if that helps.

Hopefully someone can shed some light on my problem. Them temperature gauge in my 89' will never rise above ~180 degrees when at operating temperature. Now perhaps I am creating a problem where there isn't one, but all the jeeps I've ever owned have operated at ~210 degrees, including this one at first. One day it just stopped climbing past the 180 mark. Every once in awhile if it gets warm after driving for 20 plus minutes, if I shut it off then start it up, the temp gauge goes to 210 for a bit then drops to 180. I have replaced the thermostat with the recommended 195 degree, the gauge sending unit, the coolant temp sensor (on the block by motor mount), and checked grounds. Am I missing something?

Exhaust – (Exhaust Manifold Cont'd) I baked the exhaust manifold and it was a stinky process. The fumes filled up the house, I ended up opening all the doors and windows trying to air out the house. I then waited for the last piece of the repair to show up, a new set of brown dog motor mounts. I went with the flex rubber bushings to help reduce cab vibes. I ran these mounts in an XJ I had previously and never had a problem. I found the idle vibes were minimal at first then dissapated as the mounts broke in. Disassembly is straight forward, just like there is more than one way to skin a cat, there is more than one way to prep for a manifold repair. I opted to go with the route of removing all the parts to allow for easy access to install new motor mounts. -Removed the airbox -Removed all of the vacuum and electrical connections from the intake manifold, I labeled them all to make for easier installation. -Pried the accelerator cable from the pivot ball, removed the throttle body (while it was off I cleaned out all the carbon build up), then unbolted the accelerator cable's bracket from the intake and swung to other side of the jeep. -Labeled and identify all injectors wiring harnesses after you've removed them. -After depressurizing the fuel rail, removed the four bolts from the fuel rail, and give it a good tug to get the injectors out along with the rail, put off to the side as well. -Loosened tension on the serpentine belt and removed power steering pump After that was done, I was preparing to fight with all the intake manifold bolts. The all were barely tighetend and came out with minimal effort. I have found with past experience its easiest to take off the bottom ones first, then top, once removed lift the intake up and out of the engine bay. Now unbolt the exhaust manifld bolts and remove that. I found out why I had a leak, the rear stud did not have the washer to distribute the pressure evenly and the exhaust bolt directly next to it was completely missing. So no amount of tightening was going to seal it up again. I got caught up in the process and forgot to take pictures until I had installed the drivers side motor mount. (brown dog supplies installation instructions that are very easy to follow.) Clean the mating surface on the block VERY well, you'll be able to see on the block where the old gasket was left and do the same for the intake. Install is the reverse of taking everything out. I replaced all the bolts with new hardware and purchased two new washers, these are a dealer specific part and it was $10.50 for two washers. After installing the exhaust manifold (all bolts just finger tight), its again easiest to install the intake by starting with the bottom bolts to get it lined up. An extra set of hands are extremely helpful, but if you do it solo take your time, be patient and it will fall into place. Once all the bolts are finger tight, make sure to torque in the right sequence and to specs. Finish putting everthing back together. At this point you would go for a test drive, however when I was attempting to get the EGR tube freed from the old exhaust it had seized, no amount of thread loosener, heat, and torque was breaking it free, I even snapped the O2 sensor when the wrench slipped off the connection. So I am currently waiting for a new O2 sensor and EGR tube. I made a post in the tech section if you are looking for a replacement EGR tube google jeep tube mopar part #33002871.

Yeah, I just ordered it and recieved the order conformation email. I found plent of mopar sites that had it.

Any one looking for a new/replacement EGR Tube (goes from the bottom of the intake manifold to the upper bung on the exhaust) I found a replacement. I was fixing my exhaust and had the threads on the EGR tube freeze in the exhaust. No amount of heat, thread loosener, or force was going to break it. I was reading about how no one was having any luck locating the part itself or correct size threads. After about an hour of searching I found the part online, just google mopar part #33002871.

Exhaust – (Exhaust Manifold) Since the time I purchased my comanche it has had an exhaust tick, the tell tale sign of a cracked exhaust manifold. This last month I have had a high idle (2000 rpm) with a whine once the engine has reached operating temperature. All research has lead to the conclusion that it is a manifold gasket leak, simple solution would be to tighten the bolts and see if the problem goes away. However this development coupled with the tick has made me decide to completely replace the exhaust manifold as well as gasket. I purchased and recieved a dorman exhaust manifold, cleaned it off and sprayed it with some silica ceramic coating, I used off the shelf VHT. I've read good things about this stuff, if using it make sure to get the flammable 1300 - 2000 degrees F. I hit it with 3 coats, letting it dry for ~10 minutes in between each coat. After the final coat it needs to sit for 24 hours before you cure it. Still deciding whether to cure it on the jeep its self or use the oven.

Heating – (Heater Control Valve Elimination) At one point I was losing coolant like crazy, after a new water pump, thermostat housing, accompanying gaskets, and a thin coat of RTV gasket maker the coolant leak slowed significantly. However I was still finding that I was losing some coolant from a slow leak. The other day I found that my heater control valve was leaking.... I was looking into replacing it, however the replacements are known to start leaking rather quickly as well. I know that after 97' chrysler did away with the heater control valve on the cherokees and most forums were recommending to eliminate it all together on the 96' and newer when they started leaking; I opted to elimiate it all together. Four less spots to leak coolant from. Elimiation was very easy; take out old heater hoses and heater control valve, replace with longer hoses (5/8" from thermostat to upper heater core outlet. 3/4" hose from water pump to lower heater core outlet), and cap the vacuum line. There is some debate on whether eliminating the heater control valve and having coolant always flowing through the core will increase in cab temperatures. From what is out there it appears to be personal opinion. I will find out this summer when it gets warm, I figure if its to hot I can cut the hoses and splice in a new heater control valve.

I am getting ready to replace the cracked exhaust manifold and gasket on my comanche; it's an 89. I figure while I am in there, I might as well replace the manifold bolts. I have been doing some web surfing and come up empty handed on the creect bolt sizes and lengths I would need. I have found several posts with bolts sizes and lengths for the 91 and newer cherokees. Would ours be the same as the 91 and newer or something different. Thanks for the help.

What did you do for the transfer case shifter? I like that the shift knobs match. I am not going to lie, I would like to steal your idea so my transfercase shifter will match my hurst shifter as well.

I tested out the color on the tailgate first and was surpised at how grey it came. Then when I saw it in the sunlight, I was hooked and finished the the whole truck. I read through yours and love the bobbed bed.

Electrical – (Battery Cables and Lights) After coming out after work and having a no start a few times, only to have to tighten the battery clamps, I decided an electrical upgrade was in order. I did some research on battery cable replacements and knew that the 6 guage stock cable wasn't going to cut it. I've read of several people going with 2 gauge, and others with 4 gauge. The general consensus was 2 gauge was best suited for heavy demand, and 4 gauge was a good upgrade for stock applications. I am all stock with no after-market accessories, so 4 gauge was sufficient for me. The setup I ran is below: Positive battery terminal = B+; Negative battery terminal = B- Battery clamps are brass wing nut terminals. Battery Cable Cable Length Cable Termination B+ to starter motor 40" 3/8" on both ends B+ to starter motor relay/distribution 12" 3/8" on both ends B- to engine block 40" 3/8" on both ends B- to inner fender 12" 3/8" on one end, 1/4" on other Engine block to firewall 12" 1/2" on one end, 3/8" on other Old cables, notice the small grounding cable for the block to firewall. Final setup (feel free to ask for more pics if needed) When I bought the truck the previous owner had installed a cheap projector headlight setup, most horrible thing I've ever seen. The blue lights were awful for night driving, you could barely see anything. And when you were caught in on coming traffic the glare of the lights were blinding. And to top it all of the wiring was messed up somewhere as the headlights wouldn't turn off unless you shut the truck off. Obviously they had to go. I first upgraded the head light harness. You can make your own http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoHeadlightLoom.htm Or go the route I chose, and run the LMC harness. You can pick them up for $29.99 here http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/csd/full.aspx?Page=48 part number 36-3580. It says it fits a chevy blazer but it's the same as the eautoworks harness. Second upgraded to H4 housings. There are several options to go with when upgrading the housings. Remember to take into consideration state laws as some housings are DOT approved and others are not. I looked into several options: DOT Rampage http://www.quadratec.com/products/97009_501.htm IPF http://www.quadratec.com/products/97017_1600.htm Delta http://www.quadratec.com/products/97009_121.htm Hella http://www.quadratec.com/products/97009_02.htm Non DOT Autopals (look on ebay for Autopal 200mm H4 housing) Hella http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=744 Cibie http://www.clearcorners.com/products/cibie/ I went with Autopals as there is no vehicle inspections where I am at, so no need to worry. Oddly enough when I purchased them there were said to be DOT approved. Third get some good bulbs. I used the bulbs 60/55W that came with the housings. Plenty bright with out blinding oncoming traffic. but you can use what ever you find appeals to you. For installation of the harness and housings see this excellent write up: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f59/my-h4-upgrade-114440/ For my installation, I used self taping screws to ground the head lights right into the radiator supports behind the head lights buckets. The picture is dim but gives a btter ideas of where I placed my grounds. Another install pic

AMC 252 4.0L Engine – (89’ Jeep Comanche) Original Engine was rebuilt at 172,389 miles. To eliminate the common problem of blow-by created by the towers located under the aluminum valve cover, a new steel valve cover (99’ Cherokee) with baffles was used. A new style valve cover gasket with replacement grommets needs to be used. To allow for an easier time locating and a more ample selection of oil filters, an oil filter adapter with SAE threads (95’ Cherokee) was placed on the engine block. Engine oil; I run Mobil 1 full synthetic 10W-30. I average ~5K miles per year which means I see about 2 oil changes per year. The extra $$ spent on full synthetic engine oil is worth it.

Braking System – (Brake Booster and Master Cylinder, 00’ Jeep Grand Cherokee) From 84’-94’, Comanches and Cherokees came with a single-diaphragm brake booster. This worked OK for stock applications, but once larger tires and a lift are added in its inadequacy is quickly shown. Later Cherokees and Grand Cherokees use a dual-diaphragm booster, which increase pressure in the brake lines, applying more pressure to the brakes, resulting in faster stops. There are multiple ways to do this swap, I went with 00’ WJ booster, it’s rumored to give a bit better braking. There are multiple ways to do this swap and I'm not going to go into detail as there are sufficient write ups to be found, I picked the one I liked best and followed that: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=924285 It’s recommended to use a ¼” spacer to keep the push rod lengths similar. After measuring the distances between the 89’ and the 00’, I used the spacer. The Grand Cherokee MC uses a bubble flare at the connection, so new 3/16 brake lines with bubble flares at the MC and double flares at the proportioning valve are needed. Use DOT-3 brake fluid, stick with the brand names. The important thing is to always use fresh fluid from a sealed container. Buy the smaller containers for this very reason. Brake fluid will suck moisture out of the air and this contaminates the fluid. Using it from a fresh container will help ensure you always have clean fluid. Side by side (I had already cut the old push rod to use as my template) bleeding the master Booster in its new home Decals - I placed an order with Spencer at jeepsticker.com to get some new stickers (JEEP and 4.0 litre for the tailgate, 4x4 to replace the cab ones, and comanche to go along the front fender), great guy to work with, highly recommend him.

Since I have upgraded my transmission and transfer case the 4wd is not really of any use to me since I eliminated the CAD system at the transfer case. I was thinking of doing the CAD elimination following the write up on here or even purchasing something like this: http://4x4posi-lok.com/app_jeep.html However when I was surfing classifieds on craigslist I found something that I couldn't pass up. The guy had bought a HP30 from a 98 xj as an upgrade for his wrangler, but before swapping it in he needed money. So for $180 I got the axle housing (he had already welded on a rusty's axle truss, painted yellow to match his jeep, lower control arm skids, and braced the lower c's) axles with the larger 760 u-joints, brand new motive 4.10 gears, master install kit, axle tube seals, and new bushing for the driver side.

Thank you, it's a night and day difference between when I purchased it and now. It is smooth to the touch, yet appears to have a slight texture to it when looking at it.

Empty Post

I found this link to a previous owners build thread. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=36935&p=361175#p361175 However I didn't buy the jeep off of him. AX-15 Manual Transmission – (4x4, 98’ Jeep Cherokee) Transmission was rebuilt at 175,563 miles on the odometer. Due to the lack of proper tools, I had it professionally rebuilt. Do NOT follow the transmission fluid recommendations in the owner's manual, it is a misprint. The factory service manual (FSM) does have the correct information in it. Chrysler has moved along to the newer fluids as they were introduced even though the AX-15 stayed the same. The Mopar number references a 10W-30 synthetic motor oil. However a lot of people recommend using Redline MT-90, Redline MTL fluid, (The GL-3/4 rating of this fluid means it does not have the harmful additives [sulfur compounds] that cause synchronizer wear as experienced when running GL-5 rated fluids.) You can find it on-line. It is highly unlikely you will find Redline at the usual auto parts store (AutoZone, Checker, PepBoys, etc.) Transmission fluid; I use Mobil 1 full synthetic 10W-30. I average ~5K miles per year which means I change out oil once per year. Clutch – (External Slave, 98’ Jeep Cherokee) Due to the differences between the Renix era and newer OBDI/OBDII computer systems, when installing the clutch system the Renix era fly wheel and CPS sensor must be used with the newer transmission. When Chrysler changed from the internal slave setup to the external slave, the transmission input shaft diameter was changed meaning if you are using an external slave AX-15 in an older 4.0L a new pilot bearing may be in order. BA10/5 and internal slave AX-15s have a pilot bearing with an ID of 0.5934 inches, OD of 1.055 inches, and depth of 0.719 inches (OE part number 53009181). External slave AX-15s have a pilot bearing with an ID of 0.7518 inches, OD of 1.8161 inches, and depth of 0.719 inches (OE part number 33004041). A 73’ CJ, 350 V8 pilot bearing is recommended when using an external AX-15 in an older 4.0L. It has an ID of 0.751 inches, OD of 1.056 inches, and depth of 0.88 inches (National part number PB77HD or Dorman part number 14674). The 73’ CJ pilot had too large an OD to fit into the back of the engine, I found that the external AX-15 pilot bearing fit into the space, so I am running that one.

May/June 2014: Finally have all the parts for tranny swap. Ran out of money before I could rebuild the AX15 like I wanted, but am really wanting to drive so I go against my better judgment and put the AX15 in anyways, with all new clutch system and hosing. I spent more time trying find correct bolt threads and sizes than I would like to admit, but it's all new and purdy. I get it up and running only to find out that the syncros in the AX15 are bad. I am back at square one. I figure I'll drive it until it dies. July 2014: I notice my oil leak is getting worse, I know I just replaced all the gaskets when I rebuilt can't be leaking already. Look over the engine and realize I completely forgot to change out the oil filter adapter o-rings. I figure now is a good time to put on a 93+ adapter to allow for a wider, larger, better selection of oil filters. And it makes it easier to change motor mounts in the future. I have also been having blow by issues, so I figured if I am changing oil and o-rings, might as well put a 99' steel valve cover with baffles instead of the towers. In that goes with all new vacuum tubing as well. August 2014: AX15 is toast, lasted a lot shorter than I thought. Parked it but decided to upgrade the control arms. Found a WJ being parted out and put those. ( which I could drive it to see if there is a marked improvement liked it's been claimed) I also decided since I am doing suspension pArts, I grabbed a ZJ V8 sway bar, some quick discos and new bushings to go along. Up till now I have also been collecting parts to redo my interior as it's missing some things and was put together poorly by the PO. I finally had everything so I stripped the interior, washed the trim pieces, sanded the minimal rust off the floor boards, spray rust inhibitor, then laid EZ-cool insulation down, replaced the old stock speakers, added new (to me) carpet, and new to me seats from a 2 door Cherokee. And finally the paint was bad on the roof, tail, gate, and hood. So until I can afford a real paint job I have been working on the poor man rate can job. I have been going panel by panel, removing trim and repairing/replacing it as I work along the jeep. It may not be professional but I want it to still look good. I paint the orange peel to blend. It's been coming out pretty good. I know this thread is worthless without pics. I didn't take pics of the mods I did because I forgot about this thread. But I will post some after pics later after I take some.

I had completely forgot about this thread, didn't realize it had been over a year. Where to start is the main question. Everything with this truck has been one step forward, two steps back. In the year and a half of ownership it has sat in pieces waiting for repairs for just shy of 12 months. Most of the down time is to collect my pennies and get new parts, I am of the mentality of do it right once. July of 2013: I noticed the old saggy leaf on the passenger side when ever I turned or the weight shifted made a clunk or popping sound. Looked underneath and found the leaf broken in half. I ordered some hell creek 3.5" springs to replace them, some 3.5" coils, and new procomp es9000 for all for sides. I even purchased shock tower eliminator a for the front. August 2013: Relocate jobs to NM, suspension upgrade on hold. In NM monsoons notice when ever it rains it rains inside my truck. So first things first I get a new windshield with the 97+ rubber stripping, the old chrome was peeling and looked bad. Once that's sorted out I begin the suspension swap. I pull the turdy-five out to swap rear springs, as I go to put it back in the axle tube spins in my hand. Well I can't have that, so I purchase a ford 8.8 with LSD, 3.73 gears at the local picn'pull. October 2013: After saving and buying all the parts (single income, twins = little spending money) I replace all the 8.8 parts except gears and carrier. Welded on new spring perches, I stayed spring under, shock mounting tabs, and add Cherokee shackles to compensate for lost lift withe the thicker axle tubes and spring perches; it's up and running. Great to be driving it. November 2013: Decide to get a working gas gauge. Pulled the fuel sending unit and it's toast, so I sent it off to be rebuilt/refurbished. Figure might as well make the fuel system fresh and new while it's down. I replace the fuel injected with Bosch 4 holed, new fuel filter, new fuel delivery line ( had to have custom built, yeah they don't make them for an 89' anymore) fuel pressure regulator. Wait until December until for the sending unit to come back, install it, it's up and driving. March 2014: The Peugeot is on its last legs, I begin sourcing parts for an AX-15 swap. Spend months looking for an AX15 in the JY can't find one prior to this (dime a dozen I thought, nope if it had one when I came along it had been striped out of the jeep). Source one on the World Wide Web, while I am waiting for it, the Peugeot dies. Tranny swap is in full effect. I grab a newer np231 from the JY and rebuilt it completely, source and locate all the parts to swap in an external slave. This was much harder than the few write ups let on.

I may be mistaken, but I thought the 4.0L and 2.5L engines aren't a direct swap. The engine bay dimensions are different.