agamble

I clearly misunderstood. Verifying that I am now on the same page as you, in replacing the relay socket, I simply cut the wires from the existing socket, solder on female connectors and attache to the appropriate post on a new relay. When replacing the relay do I want to use a 30 or 40 amp relay?

I am all for cutting an connecting directly to a relay if it will help with the issue, but before that route I would like to make sure I have tried all other avenues. I was able to get the fan on twice for about four seconds each time, but am unable to do so any more. Each time I had to disconnected the battery then reconnect. Once with the switch and second time was after removing the relay and cleaning the relay socket with an electronics cleaner. Would the fan diode be an underlying culprit for this?

Let's keep it very simple. First, ignore the discussions above, since they pertain to the '91 and '92 HO models. Hornbrod mentioned somewhere in there that the Renix aux fan is controlled differently. That's key information. That sensor that was supposed to thread into the tank of your radiator is nothing more than an ON-OFF switch. Below the preset temperature, the switch is open (off). When the coolant temperature in the tank reaches the preset limit, the switch closes and activates the relay, which in turn activates the fan. Since you no longer have the bung in the radiator, you don't need to maintain that sensor/switch. Don't throw it away, but remove it and set it aside. Go to Auto Zone or Advance or NAPA and buy a new connector that matches the one on that radiator sensor. Attach wires to it, plug it into the harness where you removed the radiator tank sensor, then run the two wires to a toggle switch in your cab. It doesn't matter which way you connect the wires to the toggle switch -- it's all the 12-volt power to the control ("trigger") side of the relay. Done. I got male connector that matches the female connector to the fan switch, attached new wires and ran them to a toggle switch. When I pluged the connector into the harness and flipped the toggle switch nothing happened, the fan would not come on. I thought maybe it was the fan motor but was able to jump it and it ran just fine. I recall that the fan should kick on when the A/C is turned on, when I moved the climate control knob to max A/C the fan never came on. Would these two things be tied together?

Perfect, I felt I was making it more complicated than it needed to be. Thanks for the response took away a growing head from all the searching. In fact after a long search I found a post of yours on another thread where you had the same answer.

Reviving this thread, electrical is not my strong suite. On my 89, the previous owner converted from the closed to open cooling system, the radiator that was purchased had threads for the temp. switch. The plastic tanks have started leaking so I ordered a CSF 2-core all metal, it lacks the thread port for the temp switch. I want to go the simpler route and add a manual switch in the cab, and this is where I am having trouble. Again a reminder, electrical is not my strong suite; I have read of what appears to me three different ways of accomplishing this. Option 1 is following this info found at http://www.olypen.com/craigh/auxfan.htm :You can tap into your fuse box for a 12 volt source ** (you will have a choice of hot all the time, or ignition on, so you need to decide which you want to use), and run a wire from here to your switch. Then from your switch, you can run a wire to the Fan Relay. The Orange wire (pin 2) is the relay control wire (some models may be Yellow, but you won't have both), this is the one you want to tap into with the wire from your switch. There is enough slack here to easily use a press on wiretap, or a crimp on splice tap. This will not affect the automatic functions of the fan in any way, but will allow you to turn it on manually. Option 2: Locate the temperature switch and follow the wires back a couple inches. Use some push on wiretap connectors or any other prefered method to tap into the wires or if there is no more temperature switch just cut off the weather pack and solder the wires directly (would like the option of going back). Then run the wires into the cab and connect to the switch. Option 3: Wire 12v to one pole on your switch. Then take another lead from the other pole to the oragne wire on the elec fan relay. Splice the wire from the switch in with the orange wire. the orange wire is from the temp sender/computer that tells the relay to turn the fan on. If you supply 12v to this lead (very minimal power drawing--you can use small gauge wire) then the relay will switch turning the fan on. when the switch is off the temp sensor can still switch the relay one because the orange wire is still connected to the relay. Wire a toggle switch that will connect the the two wires together on the temp sensor on the radiator. That is all that sensor is, an on/off switch. Just tap onto those two wires with an on/off switch. Options 1 and 3 appear to be the same, with a difference in 1 taps into the fuse box and 3 does not. Option 1 is the method I want to do, where I am struggling is how to tap the fuse box (I am assuming this is the fuse panel under the dash????), how to connect to the Orange wire on the fan relay. I am visual learner if any one has pictures of this setup, I could better visualize what is being said.

Steering 2.0 Cont. – (C-Rok Steering Repair Kit, Redhead Steering Gear, and Borgeson Intermediate Steering Shaft) Installed the Borgeson intermediate shaft. Multiple posts reference to the shaft rusting if you don’t paint it. I thought about painting it black, in the end I just could cover up the silver, so I went with a clear paint. In the installation instructions to connect the shaft to the steering gear spindle, you are supposed to mark where the socket screw makes contact, remove the shaft, then cut a groove for this screw to clamp into. When I installed the shaft I noticed that the screw was able to clamp down on the recessed area of the spindle (smooth section without any splines) giving it plenty of bite. To mount it to the steering column, there are two mounting screws, one required that a hole be drilled into the side of the steering column shaft, the other you tighten the screw down against the steering column shaft to secure it. Without either the shaft would readily slip off, when I tightened the one it was quite secure in place. As I was not able to get a drill into position, and I didn’t really want to tear the column out to drill a hole, I felt if one held secure, both with be just fine. I read of a lot jeepers omitting the drilling and using both screws to clamp it into place without any issues. So for now I will keep an eye on it and it appears to be working loose I end up drilling a hole like stated. I was also able to install the pump and hoses for the power steering, all that remains it to fill and bleed the system.

As for durability, I would say good, not great. I have hauled a few items in the bed since applying the bedliner. For the most part it has held up great, the only time it was scuffing and being scrapped off was when I was hauling a couple axles in the bed. The one saving grace for that is touch ups are super easy.

Mine operates along the same lines, as long as the control lever is on cool, air entering the cab is the same as the outside ambient air. I use to have the problem with the trans tunnel heating up the cab. I ended up laying down some dyna mat, significantly reduces the amount of heat coming through the trans tunnel.

Steering 2.0 – (C-Rok Steering Repair Kit, Redhead Steering Gear, and Borgeson Intermediate Steering Shaft) About year ago I developed a case of death wobble, initially to fix the issue I swapped out the stock steering and track bar for a 1-ton steering setup, complimented with a double sheer track bar. This seemed to fix the issue for a while. After time went on the death wobble occurred again, very intermittently. . As my commute is mostly surface streets, I could avoid the triggers for the death wobble. After completing the front axle swap, I took the Comanche for a front end alignment. The drive across town was interesting to say the least. Every little bump would initiate death wobble, I found myself decreasing speed after each subsequent event. I was eventually driving 20 m.p.h. and even then I could feel the shimmy of death wobble from small bumps. I thought all new components in the front end would have addressed the issue, so I was hoping that it was really out of alignment. At the off road shop the tech noticed something that had escaped me (always good to have a fresh outside eye). He pointed out a crack running on the inside of the frame right above the sway bar mount. Now in my defense this area was covered in power steering fluid as the box and reservoir leak really bad, dirt, and whatever else found its way there, so it wasn’t very obvious. A few shop rags and some vigorous wiping we found a few other cracks (a second one on the inside of the frame, and two on the outside of the frame, all around the steering gear area). When someone would turn the steering, the whole frame would flex about an 1/8 of an inch. I think we had found my underlying issue. After limping the Comanche home, I cleared away some parts to get better access to the frame and assess the damage. Now that I knew the full extent of the damage, time for repairs. First order was addressing the frame, after reading and talking to a few people the consensus was to drill 1/8” stress relief holes at the end of each crack, grove the cracks, then weld them up. Not my frame, but it gives you an idea of what I did on the frame. I ordered the C-Rok Frame Repair Kit to add a bracing system to support the now welded frame. The kit comes with an outer plate, an inner plate to replace aluminum spacer, and steel sleeves to insert into the frame. Install is straight forward and the instructions that are supplied are clear and easy to follow. Since the steering gear and reservoir leaked, I ordered replacements. After researching the Durango box upgrade and finding mixed/contradicting/incomplete information and reviews, I ultimately decided to play it safe. I currently sit on 31” tires and don’t plan on going above 32” tires; a stock replacement appeared to be a good option. So my search for a good replacement began, after surfing numerous jeep forums, I repeatedly found reference to Redhead Steering, a company that refurbishes steering gears. I found only good reviews, so I placed an order for a power steering gear box. At this point I thought if I am splashing cash, and replacing all the old parts, why stop, so I made an order for the Borgeson steering shaft replacement. As of right now only the steering gear is in as I needed it in place to mount the C-Rok frame plates. If you look close you can see the inner plate between the gear box and frame. This should prevent any frame flex in the future.

DIY Bedliner - (Rustoleum) After painting the Jeep, I saw that the rubber on the bed cap door has rubbed away the paint on the tail gate, the good thing is that it also rubbed away the rust that would form, as such I wasn't in a big hurry to address the issue. I removed the bed cap as I was moving around some items in the bed of the truck, I noticed some surface rust forming on the bed rails where the cap rests, as well as in certain sections of the bed where the paint had been rubbed away. While the cap was off I decided to take care of the surface rust issue. I followed the rattle can painting tips that I used when painting the body, here is the link to the write up that I followed: http://www.pirate4x4...ee-purty-d.html The first decision was what bed spray to go with, I am in the middle of my axle rebuild so the more expensive bedliners were not considered. I read mixed reviews about Dupicolor bed spray on adhesion, texture and color. I chose to go with rustoleum truck bed spray, reviews appeared to be much kinder towards this prodcut. As it is always said, prep work it the real determining factor of how well rattle can turns out. The project was done over a weekend, I used a 200 grit to rough up the paint, yet leave the factory base coat, then smoothed it out with 400 grit. I found that spraying at different distances affected the texture, the further away when spraying, the rougher the texture. I tried to keep the spray distance to about 6", this layed down a textured finish to that of about 180 grit sand paper. When reading about others applying the product, multiple people had problems with the nozzle no longer spraying bed liner, the fix was to hold the can upside down. The can recommends two coats, I ended up putting down three coats. I was able to do the bedrails, entire bed, and top of the tail gate with three cans; holding the cans upside down allowed me to get out the majority of the product.

Empty Post

Did a small upgrade today, when I was in the picknpull the other day removing the clutch pedal from the cherokee, I also grabbed the footwell lights and brackets. The hardest part was finding where the foot well light harness was hidden in my jeep. After good search found them taped up on the harness its self. Once located all that was left was to plug them in. And final product Something simple, but it will be nice to see a bitter better at night .

Clutch Pedal Two weeks ago I noticed that my clutch pedal was feeling funny, I chalked it up to me just not paying attention to how my clutch normally feels. Well on my drive home from work I depress the clutch pedal to shift from third to fourth when I hear a pop. At which point I cannot get the transmission into gear, which come to find out isn't a bad thing. I quickly pull/coast over to a side street, get out to inspect. No fluid leaks or broken lines, but no matter what I can't get the clutch to engage to shift into gear. I called a buddy for a tow home. Once home I proceeded to check the clutch master cylinder fluid was a dark grey, must be bad I think, swap it out no change. Well maybe its the slave, at this point I super glad I converted to an external, swap that out, still no clutch. I notice that no matter what I do I have maybe a quarter of an inch in throw from the pedal. So I think something must be wrong with the pedal, I pulled it out only to find this. A trip to the pick n' pull is order. Out of the 12 cherokees in the lot one was a standard transmission, I was able to get the pedal. While disassembling the pedal I noticed that my old clutch pedal was missing some parts. First part I noticed is not of great significance, apparently there is a spring that attaches onto the mounting bracket and connects to the pedal, second there is a inner sleeve with two bushing (they look like this) The pedal I pulled out of my truck had one bushing, no wonder it feel really wobbly all the time. With the new pedal in hand I set to wrok of replacing the clutch pedal, (side by side, sorry for the blurryness) Everything was reassembled and the clutch feels much better than before. Having the right parts and pieces makes all the difference.

HIgh Idle - (Butterfly Screw Adjustment) Awhile back I had a bad idle problem, when the truck would idle the RPM needle bounced/surged between 1200-1400 rpm, constantly, within 1-2 second intervals. In my attempt tp figure out why I started by following everyone of cruiser54's tips for the renix. I refreshed all the grounds, cleaned the throttle body, cleaned (then broke) thus subsequently replaced the iac, tested the tps (was within spec), replaced the O2 sensor, and tightened all of the intake/manifold bolts. At a loss of what else to do, I wrote a post in the Tech Section of the forum, several guys threw out other ideas of what to do and look for. At their suggestions I found that when I had swaped out my valve cover I had placed the elbows in the wrong ports, switched them to the correct one, still high idle. After reading through various jeep forums I kept coing to one last thing to check, the butterfly adjustment screw. Everything that I had read up on said its not to be played with but lost of people do anyways as a quick fix. I went and inspected it and found it like this: Clearly someone has been playing with it, this lead to an inspection of the butterfly gap Upon the advice of another member here, that gap was too large and a gap of .003 was recommend. I read multiple things on how wide the gap should be, in the end I went with the adivce of .003 and the general consensus that only a bit of light should get through. A new sest of feeler gauges were purchased and the screw was adjusted until the .003 feeler gauge could barely slide between the butterfly and the throttle body wall and only a bit of light was peeking through. The screw adjustment was a success, its been about a month and the idle has remained at 600 RPM, regardless of the operating temperature.

Thanks for the suggestions, I think I will try both of your guys suggestions at some point in the near future. I am still enjoying the fact that it has a normal idle.

Okay, well it is currently set with the clearance of .003". I adjusted until I could barely (not having to force) slide the .003" feeler gauge between the wall and butterfly. Thus far it has been working great, my idle is down to 600 rpm at start up and when at operating temperature, adjusting the butterfly has resolved my issue. The PO must have adjusted the stop screw as a quick easy fix to an idle issue and never addressed the real issue. Then at some point in my repairing and replacing old worn out parts, I must have addressed the underlying issue and his band-aide fix was brought to light. Again thanks to all who have given help and input in this issue.

Should the clearance be different, if it is not correct I'd like to know. I would rather go back and fix it correctly and be done with it than have a band-aide fix and have it evolve into a bigger issue donw the road. I arrived at the clearance that I have right now through a number of factors, First, using your renix tip for adjusting the butterfly, I know in the post you never give any space measurements, it simply states close all the way and open until the faintest movement is detected. Second in a previous post you made on this thread you asked if I had a set of feeler gauges that go down to 0.003", in response to that post I asked if that is the gap measurement that I neede, you must have missed the question, you never responded to that one. And finally reading through mulitple forums on adjusting the butterfly (most seemed to treat it as a quick easy fix to idle problems), with the knlowdege the butterfly needs to be open as minimally as possibly I recall reading a post that you want only the faintest of light getting through.

Okay, made a stop at the auto parts store to purchase a set of feeler gauges that go down .003, also purchased a new throttle body gasket while I was there. Using Cruiser54's renix tip #14 adjusting the butterfly screw I closed the gap between the throttle body wall and butterfly. Try as I might I could not get the allen wrench to turn, in the end I had to use some vice grips to grip the screw and turn in it. I went until I could barely slide the .003 feeler gauge between the wall and butterfly, here is what it looks like now. Correct me if I am wrong, I recall reading somewhere that you want only the faintest of light getting through, after adjusting it I shone a flashlight through to verify. As of right now it appears that adjusting the butterfly has solved my high idle issue. I started it and the idle was between 600-800 rpm. I let it sit and idle to half of operating temperature and it never climbed above 800 rpm. I will give it a good test drive tomorrow to see how it the idle behaves once it gets to operating temperature. Still can't get the idle to stop pulsating in the 200 rpm range. But as of right now I am considering this a small victory. Thanks to everyone that has helped me with this issue, if tomorrows drive proves its not fixed, I know where to come to continue trouble shooting.

I noticed I had a typo in my last post, to date I have not touched the butterfly even though I said I had. I don't own any feeler gauges at the moment, but I can own a set here soon. 0.003, is that how open I want my butterfly to be? It has been a joy chasing this mystery down (thats thick with sarcasm). Although the one good thing is I have become very familiar with mulitple systems of my jeep I otherwise would have ignored.

Your tips that can be considered the renix bible. Ever since purchasing my jeep I have referenced your tips, to date they have not steered me wrong. I have refreshed all my grounds, cleaned the throttle body, cleaned, then accidentally broke, thus subsequently replaced the iac, tested the tps (was within spec),adjusted the butterfly, replaced the O2 sensor, and tightened all of the intake/manifold bolts. To date I have not cleaned the ECU contacts or messed with the butterfly adjustment screw. When reading your tips and post in various forums when helping others, messing with the adjustment screw is a big no. So I have not messed with it, waiting until it becomes a last resort. I found a old post on cherokee forum from 2011, where a guy was hae the exact same problems that I am having (you were helping him) and he ended up adjusted the butterfly screw. Here is the link for reference http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/renix-high-idle-still-106800/index5/ About an hour ago after reading the posts I went and checked the butterfly adjustment screw and noticed a previous owner had tampered with it. The bolt was stripped and it appears that they used pliers to move it. . From the picture below is this opening on the butterfly to much?

So I checked a found that I had mixed PCV the elbows up. I put the appropriate elbow (the one with the restrictor) on the rear of the valve cover. Upon complete the swap, when starting the jeep it retained the high, pulsating idle. When it was running I was playing around with the wiring harness and unplugged the vacuum line from the MAP sensor, the idle on the jeep instantly dropped to 800 rpm and held steady. When I would reconnect the vacuum line to the MAP sensor the idle would shoot back up to 1200 rpm and begin to pulsate like originally. Would/could a bad MAP sensor cause this symptom?

Not a stupid thought, very valid. I may have possibly done that. I will have to look into that. I'll get back to you guys if that wasn't the issue, it'll be a while before I have time, and the parts to check the elbows.

Okay I am on the same page now. It is/should be the metered OEM elbow for the steel valve cover if I purchased the correct part, since now talking with you guys I am not sure if I did purchase it, as if I had it I probably would not be having high idle issues related to this. I believe it is either a Dorman - Crankcase Vent Tube, part number RBA47057 or Crown Automotive - PCV Valve, Part Number 53030495.

I am not sure what you are referring to, could you you explain a bit more.

I am having a huge conundrum. I am having issues with a high idle on my 89 Comanche. At the moment when I idling it bounces/surges between 1200-1400 rpm. When I say surges,I mean constantly, within 1-2 second intervals it will surge between that predescribed rpm. I cannot for the life of me get it to hold a steady idle nor get the idle down below 1000. To this point I have followed everyone of cruiser54's tips for the renix. I have refreshed all my grounds, cleaned the throttle body, cleaned, then accidentally broke, thus subsequently replaced the iac, tested the tps (was within spec),adjusted the butterfly, replaced the O2 sensor, and tightened all of the intake/manifold bolts. To date I have not cleaned the ECU contacts. Now this is to get a second opinion on my train of thought and next plan of action. I noticed the rpm went up when I changed out the OEM aluminum valve cover to a steel one from a 99-00 jeep Cherokee. I swapped this out as I had read that others had done this to eliminate the issue of oil blow by getting onto the air filter. Everything I read and researched, no one had issues with a high idle post swap. I know that on the older valve cover the rear CCV line acts a restrictor reducing the vacuum pressure. This leads to it becoming gunned, causing the gases to escape into the air filter instead of the manifold. On the steel one the PCV line is now putting direct vacuum on the valve cover. I threw the old valve cover out, should I concede defeat and track down an original valve cover and swap it back out. Any thoughts, suggestions, or opinions are greatly appreciated.