vzehler

I bought an aftermarket ACC kit. I think it ran me about 100 bucks shipped or so. I think the quality is pretty good considering the price. I wouldn't say that it's quite as good as OEM but it's impossible to find anything comparable to OEM at a reasonable price. The only thing that was a pain was getting it trimmed and fitting 100%. Yea, thanks! I bought a 97' Cherokee for parts that was blown up. I switched out all the old sheet metal for the Cherokee front end.. It was pretty straight forward having everything I needed there. The mirrors worked too with a little trimming. I'm definitely happy with the looks. Makes the older truck a little more stylish.

Very very tragic.. Prayers for all.

Thank you! :cheers: Actually, I wanted something a little bit darker than the original grey with a little more flare. So, I went to the local paint supply and settled on a "Dark Grey Pearl" which is a Toyota color. I did 4 coats of the base, then I did 4 coats of clear with additional white pearl mixed in as a mid coat and 3 additional coats of plain clear so when I wet sanded and buffed I wouldn't cut into the pearl clear and cause any splotches. The pictures really don't do the final product justice, it REALLY pops at you when the sun hits those body lines. Anyways, adding the additional white pearl in the mid coat of clear actually lightened up the appearance of the base. It's still a little darker than the original like I wanted, thankfully.

Yea, that was the goal when I bought the truck. I really just wanted a good, reliable, respectable looking truck to daily drive so I can keep the miles off the Rubi (and money in my wallet). Thanks again to everyone for the compliments.0

Thank you for the compliments! :cheers: I didn't really like the truck cap to begin with so Ive got it sitting in the backyard collecting spiders. I don't plan on ever putting it back on because I have a roll bar that's going in the bed as soon as I blast a little rust off of it and re-paint it. If anyone is interested in the truck cap in the pictures, Ill let it go really cheap. Yea, the Moabs are a sweet wheel, I picked up the set of wheels and tires for $300. :brows: I did do all the work myself with a helping hand on spraying the paint from my pop, its not 100% flawless but I saved a buttload of money and I'm proud to have accomplished it, turned out much better than I anticipated. I lifted the truck with the M.O. 3". The rear seemed to net quite a bit more lift than the front, so I ended up installing a 3/4" spacer up front to try to level it out. It still has a noticeable forward rake but I thought it would be best to let the new leafs and coils settle before I make any more changes. Oh, for sure! I got pretty fortunate with the rust.. For being a rust belt truck it was very minimal. Surface rust at most underneath.

Ive been working on the Comanche pretty solid since June. Totally took apart, restored, and put back together. I sandblasted the unibody and re-painted it, new lift, newer wheels and tires........(nevermind, I would list new parts all day long) I've still got some compounding and polishing to finish up on the paint job and a few other odds and ends. But all in all, I'm happy to get it back on the road. Now, some before and after shots. This was the day I brought it home (before) 97 front end conversion (a little later) Interior (before) Interior (after) It has 97 Cherokee 2 door buckets in now. Another How it sits today (after) I didnt waste my time with doing much to the front bumper. I'm going to be replacing it when the finances permit.

I've tried to call them more than a few times over the last couple months and have never gotten anyone to answer. I never left a message to return my call, have you? I ordered a lift from their Black Friday Sale 2008 and had to wait about 5 months for the track bar to finally come. The rest of the lift was delivered pretty quickly. They actually forgot about the track bar being backordered and they made it right in the end but it still kinda left me with a bad taste in my mouth. They are members here on the forum. Hopefully someone can chime in with a little more useful information on the current status of their business.

I would but the the coil thingy that rolls the window up and down for the manual ones are toast... Ive yet to find a set that is in tact at a junkyard.... :headpop: I would rather have the manual windows to be honest. Less electrical crap to fail in the future... Aside from that I'm not fond of the master control switch and the idea of having all the unused switches.

Weeellll.. I've done it this time! I've been looking for a set of straight, rust free doors for a longg time. I finally found a near perfect set off of a 1990 Cherokee. Only problem is that they are equipped with power windows where my Comanche is not. Can anyone tell me how to wire them to work

The perfectly good Comanche that they destroy in the movie "War of the Worlds"? I knew I didn't like Tom Cruise for a reason.

All I can say is that you get what you pay for.. I bought a Jeep with a Rough Country kit already on it and IT WAS HORRIBLE... Terrible ride (worse than anyone could ever expect even for a lifted vehicle), very noisy, etc. I would definitely save my money for higher quality components.

Just what kind of racing is that truck set-up for? I see it has no windows, but, other than that and the roll cage and a few doo-dads it looks pretty mild.

That Comanche is b-e-a-u-tiful! I can't blame him for sticking to his guns on the price. He knows what he has and can get it from the right person. It's definitely not your run of the mill used Comanche from the looks of the pictures and if all else fails he could post it on EBAY and people would fight over it!

Why is anyone surprised at over-the-top disclaimers these days? Let me tell ya, in this world, you cover your @$$ because no one else is! Regarding the damage on that JK... Compared to some of the crazy rebuildables I see people snatch up and make look like new, its pretty amateur.

I agree with Eagle. I just finished installing the M.O. 3" kit as is out of the box and extended brake lines are absolutely necessary, especially in the back. My stock brake line in the back is stretched out just sitting there. Also, it might be helpful to know that when I installed the lift on mine, the rear sits up noticeably higher. It would be even worse if I had an aftermarket bumper with/without a winch. So, what I'm trying to say is that you are probably going to want to net more lift in the front than in the rear so it will sit even.

Oh, gotcha. Well, it hasn't been aligned yet but I didnt think that would cause the gross front to rear out of whackedness with the wheels up front. The drivers wheel is literally 2 fingers width from the front bumper and would probably rub if I turned the wheel.. Whereas, the passengers side is just fine..

I'm not sure exactly what you mean, therefore, probably not. Could you elaborate for me?

Okay. I finished up installing a 3" lift on my Comanche (Motion Offroad). Problem is: The front driver's wheel upon visual inspection seems to be oriented more to the front of the wheel well (lets say there is a 2 finger gap between the tire and the front of the wheel well). The front passenger wheel seems to be perfectly centered (let's say there is 4 finger gap). Both control arms are set at exactly 16" inches.. thats the minimum length.. The adjustable track bar is set.. What gives? How can I fix this issue..

Hey guys, I'm away from my truck right now and I need someone to help me out. I'm running by the auto parts store on the way home to pick up some new frame end bushings for my sway bar. Problem is that they list about 5 different sizes and I guess they're not really application specific. So, Ive got a 1989 Jeep Comanche, does anyone know what the diameter of that sway bar is? (most of them are listed in millimeter's)

Will they actually allow you to fit a larger tire.. Ive got a three inch lift going on which will allow me a comfortable fit of a 31. Could I fit say a 33 with the bushwacker flares?

I could probably do that on the drivers side but someone mangled the passenger side one pretty bad.. I'm really just looking to replace them somehow.. Perhaps a trip to the junkyard is in order.. Does anyone know if the cherokee's and comanches have the same ubolt plate?

spring under.. :)

I'm in the process of lifting my Comanche. I ran into a little problem removing the rear shocks at the lower mount. After a little cussing I broke out the cutting wheel and cut the nut off because it was basically just spinning on the bolt. What I found was the threads had rusted away to nothing which poses a problem trying to put new shocks on. Does anyone know where I can obtain new shock pin mounts or a new ubolt plate? Weld-on would be fine. Thanks in advance for any help.

*Contrary to popular believe, some dana 35's have a metal plug opposed to the rubber plug most people identify them by. *Invest in PB Blaster (a rust penetrant) and use it several times starting a few days before you plan on wrenching on your jeep. WD-40 is NOT the same thing. *Use locktite on bolts. *Know torque specs and do not over torque a bolt or use air tools on lug nuts. *If you remove the bed on your Jeep, you must reground the wiring harness or it will not start. *97-up front end is easily swappable to a Comanche. *97-up doors will also fit on a Comanche. *97-up mirrors will fit on 96-down doors with minor trimming. *If you do a 97 up front end swap. upgrade your flashers to heavy duty jobs. *Jeeps will potentially consume all of your excess money. *Your wife/girlfriend will get pissed because you work on your Jeep to much.

Cool... Ill try to fart around with it when I get home. Ive never image copied a disk but I'm sure it not too much of a pita. Thanks for your help guys