oldseddie

I use stainless safety wire around a mandrel to form my own. Baling wire would probably be fine to. Use an appropriately sized pipe for a mandrel.

As service manager of a Jeep dealership during the years these trucks were made, I spent a good bit of time addressing braking problems. It was a poor design as when you nail the brakes the front end dives and the back end rises causing the valve to reduce rear braking. Not a good thing. It is my theory that this is why they quit making them. They were already priced too high for the market segment and adding antilock brakes would have made them even more expensive.

I have a stack of obd2 ecm's sitting around. give me the #'s and maybe i'll have the right one. I got a 97 w/ax15 doner so I don't need them for my project.

Are the WJ arms the right length for a stock height MJ?

I believe your problem lies in retaining the proportioning valve in the rear axle. It has a return line to the MC and there is provision for it on a Comanche MC. Did you replace the MC with a Comanche one?

I intend to make a set of rear flares to match the 97+ front flares. It will require cutting up cheeokee flares to make a plug from which the mold will be produced.

I will consider any condition as I intend to use them to make a mold for Comanche rear flares.

If you use automotive carpet, you can use a heat gun on the back and it will stretch/ shrink and generally conform. I just learned a new trick with the Durango seats. The mechanism that limits the forward travel of the seat back is the same one that helps the seat lean upright. A little work with a dremel and I now have pick-up seats.

I have an 87 cluster with full gauges all work. I just swapped it out for a 93 I had picked up a while back if you're interested. The clear lense is a little scratched but would polish out or you could use your existing as they are all the same.

I have checked out your quad cab. Gonna be the first of many I predict. Would you have left the roof full length if you had it to do over or would it have complicated things? I may have to do one at some point.

I'm over 6' and have been around Comanches since their inception and always preferred the bench seat for the added legroom. I'm really liking the headroom and legroom. It's all bolt on with stock Comanche mounts and 1" tubing.

I read somewhere that it couldn't be done but they sit low and have great legroom rivaling the factory bench. Even though the don't lean forward they slide forward enough to give access to jack and gear stowed behind seat. They are comfortable as well.

I appreciate the response. I plan to have an aeroquip line made up but If I can use the late model mc in my old renix pedal assembly, with the external slave it would be easier.

Bump time. Surely someone knows if a renix era MC will drive an external slave ax15 or not.

I no longer need one. I actually found one locally on Craigslist.

I am watching this as well as intend to do this on my 89. I just wanted to mention that you can alter the tank with a heat gun to clear obstructions. Just 'sneak up' on it till it becomes pliable.

Does anyone know the difference between the three different clutch master cylinders offered for the 4.0. Is it the size of the bore, or a change in design of the pedal assembly? I'm getting ready to swap my ba10 for an ax15 and intend to freshen up the hydraulics while I'm at it. I have an 87 truck and an external slave ax15 and want to use the best MC for my application.

Full or short? I may have a full one.

You could have a weak relief spring in the oil pump limiting the pressure to 40 lbs. If it was excessive bearing clearances it would vary with engine speed.

I appreciate all info. I hang around Johnson's as we are old friends. Kenny enjoys crushing cars too much. They are supposed to call me if certain models show up. Seeing as I already have an extra ba10 cross member, I may just try altering it to resemble an ax15 only stronger. I guess I just need the shift linkage. Oh and a late model bearing cover.

I'm in Fairview. I hate to say Asheville as people might get the wrong idea about my sexuality. I am considering altering the extra ba10 cross member I have. How much do I need to thin it to accommodate the ax15?

I have everything I need but these items for my ba10 to ax15 conversion. I might even turn loose a set of tail lights to get them.

You can test the evap and condenser by pulling vacuum on system and then closing the isolation valve on the vacuum pump and see if it will hold. I think you can do this on a bench before installing these items.

Did you add washers to the spacer. You could have the gear box in a bind.

If it is an early model with a mechanical fuel pump, you have a hole in the pump diaphragm.