Rich69

Is there a newer type of headlight which would fit the truck and draw less amps say Halogen or LED?

Will try it Thanks!!

I have an 89, My headlights won't shut off - Ever!! Thought it was the headlight delay relay, replaced it, worked once and now have the same problem. I was thinking I I should try replacing the head light switch next? Any suggestions on trouble shooting or what might be causing it?

Where are you in NJ? Morris Plains here.

Would go depending on the date.

Cool Build Dan, Would like to see it at The North Jersey Jeep Club Meeting Aug 19th

Did you align the toe in with a tape measure? Check the caster angle with an angle finder? On jack stands check for play at every joint. I run the stock stabilizer on my xj and have never had a problem. I agree do not try to solve this with a stabilizer.

I ran the MJ all winter wo a fan switch or any electric fan for most of the summer. Recently I was heading down the shore and knew I might get caught in traffic so i quickly wired a temp switch and set it on the top fo the dash. I picked up the newer T-stat houseing a while back with the 3/8" port. I took some temps with an infra read sensor after running the truck all warmed up. I found the tstat housing was about 205*-210*. I found the radiator close to the height of the missing bung at about 185* so the question is what is the best on / off temp for the new fan switch. I was trying to find the spec on the thermostat as it should be above that. I would geuss the stock t-stat is 190 or 195 anyone know? Any suggestions on the on / off temp for the new switch? Jeggs and summit have a bunch of differnet switches which may work.

Is there a chance you can post the schedule for this Rig. I would love to see it in person some time... Will you ever be out east?

What year Saab is that out of? I really like that soloution. Cheap and easy and I can use the stock sensor......!

Sorry If I wasnt clear. My dash, center consol, seats and door panels are complete including the window cranks. I am looking for the remaining plastic trim panels to trim out around the doors and the back of the cab.

Your getting closer to selling me on the Manual switch. I'm guessing the reason I have read many have had problems findind the right switch is because the coolant coming out of the head is much hotter than where that bung is located halfway down the radiator. again I'm guessing for this to work right you would need a switch witch turns on off at a higher temp then the stock switch. ffpiercecracker1, I couldnt pull up the price from that link, I was looking t this switch: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-16749/overview/

Wow an IFS setup

Really wish my MJ had an interior. all thats left is the door panels, the dash center console and seats. Looks great.

Ok Checked out the swapped in radiator form the XJ has plastic ends so Soldering on the bung is not an option. Back to finding a switch which will work with the existing aux fan.

I can solder the bung onto the radiator now Its just a matter of finding the bung, which might not be so easy. I will sweat it off a closed radiator I find in the junk yard. Found this on NAXJA think I'm gonna try this route. "You do not need to "relocate" the fan switch. Assuming you bought a radiator with brass end tanks, all you need to do is cut a hole in the back of the end tank, right where the hole was in the old RENIX rediator. The factory RENIX radiator has a cast iron threaded bung soldered into the tank. The switch screws into this. I used a MAP gas torch to sweat out the old bung and solder it into the new radiator. You need to be careful cutting the hole, because with an AW4, the ATF cooling reservoir sits inside this end tank about 4/10 of an inch inside the tank. I cleaned the tank and drew the circle with a Sharpie, then drilled a ring of small holes. I connected the holes with a cylinderical bur bit on a die gringer. You do not need to screw with any hoses or adaptors to do this. I used the renix presure bottle as a overflow bottle. I just screwed a small hose fitting into the bottom bottle hose fitting and connected it to the port at the cap. If you go this route and already have the tools, the cost is zero dollars."

Good information... I don't want to have to watch the tempreture all the time. I will forget about it and overheat. It might be a good temporary soloution for me and having an override to turn it on would be nice but Id rather take human error out of my overheating. I may run a temp switch is there a relay for the fan or the power to the fan runs directly through the switch? For now I was just thinking a super cheap way to get the existing switch working would be to braze the bung on the radiator but not sure where i would find it I will have to check the size and thread for it. I need to still get body parts on this truck repainted and get an interior. so I was hoping to fix the electric fan problem with very little coin.

I just bought a 89 converted to an open system. The CC member I bought it from did not finish the open system swap. There is no bung on the radiator for the electric fan switch. The big round switch is just hanging from the wiring loom. Has anyone just bought the bung and brazed it onto the radiator? Can I buy just the bung? I will have to check if the radiator is metal of plastic? I was thinking this would be the easiest, cheapest and the closest to stock fix. If anyone can share how they did it if you have part numbers it be great. I had read several previous threads still wondering which way I should go with this.

My MJ has no interior panels except the dash, center console and door panels. I'm looking for an entire grey interior in good shape. 201 280-9420 Rich

Great diagram, immensely helpful. Thanks for posting it.

Little late on this post but I had no Idea you could dye interior panels what type of dye did you use? It looks great, Great job.

I sold my YJ regretted it ever since. Offered to buy it back several of times.

7K that is a lot of coin. What are some of the more expensive parts?

Cool it was your grandfathers truck.

I see so you did the TPS swap so you could use the entire HO intake from the air box and hoses to the manifold?