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SuperWade2

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Everything posted by SuperWade2

  1. Not that anyone cares any more, but 34MM FOR THE WIN on the lower ball joint /drag link castle nut... now getting the thing off will be an entirely different story... SW2
  2. :needpics:
  3. If I had one that big, I would use it...Don't have it either...
  4. It's bigger than 1 1/4"... Smaller than 36 MM I'm thinking maybe 1 5/16 or 33 or 34mm... none of which I own...yet... Sw2
  5. Well, it seems that most of the other stuff is Metric... The Top Castle is either 19 or 22 mm, and I think the drag link bolt was the other... If I remember right, the 1 1/8 SAE I tried last night was too small...
  6. about:config Without the space between the "t" and the ":"
  7. Does anyone know off hand the socket size for the lower castle nut in the bottom of the knuckle? Somewhere between 32-34mm maybe?
  8. block off plate? for the disco? Yeah, I am going ahead and doing the inner seal thing for my One Piece Axle from my TJ...
  9. Yes... Along with the Ball joints, I'm am replacing the Hub's and Rotors/Pads and Axle Shafts as soon as I get the Inner Seals and Block-Off plate... But for sure the Anti-Seize.... SW2
  10. I went back out with the 4" bolts and beat on em some more (since my kids aren't going to bed anyhow) and finally got the thing to pop off... What an F'in nightmare... makes we wonder if I am going to be able to do the ball joints, but I have it taken this far apart, so it would be silly to stop now... SW2
  11. Just got done trying that with some 4" bolts that I picked up on the way home... Not even a BUDGE... After I get the Kids to bed, I'm going to try one of these two methods I found on JeepForum and JeepsUnlimited...
  12. To say nothing of the ball joints. Dayem, a CA MJ shouldn't be that rusted, unless you wheel it underwater in the Pacific. Somethin ain't right. :roll: Well, The rotor on the Pass Side is now Off... I just went crazy and smacked the crap out of it some more. I actually removed the 36MM nut, hoping that I could pull the hub bearing/rotor off as suggested, but after removing the Nut, I still had NADA movement anywhere, so I kind of flipped out and just started bashing the Rotor all over as hard as I could (I think I blacked out a little bit)... anyhow, it FINALLY started to move and I was able to finally break it free... But now the Hub Bearing won't budge (All 3 Long Bolts have been removed)...at ALL... Any Help? As far as the Rust, I think this truck sat for a good while. According to CarFax (assuming it's accurate), the Truck had 150K+ in 1993 and I'm @ 205K now, so I think at some point between 1993 and 2007 it sat for a while, or only had 4000miles a year. Once/If I get the Hub/Bearing out, whats invovled in removing the shaft. I assume I have to open the Vacuum Disconnect box on the Tube and disconnect something, right? SW2
  13. I'll try to get a pic later this afternoon (back at real work now) Any chance that I can re-use the Hubs from my 99 TJ? I'm thinking at this point about tossing the Rotors and replacing with new anyhow and but if the rotors are "fused" to the hubs, then maybe I need to do something while I have it torn apart. I'm still wanting to do the Shafts from my TJ, but not sure if I'm going to do that now or not. SW2
  14. Might as well continue the line of dumb questions. How do I get the Nut off since the Axle (this is the passenger side) is spinning when I try to remove it it and I already have the brake calipers off. New 3 lb Dead Blow Sledge and more crap beating and it hasn't moved a bit. Now I'm getting pissed... this sucks... now I know why I've always paid to have this stuff done... this isn't even "fun"... Wade
  15. Was getting ready to try that next... Just the 3 bolts for the Hub, right OK, here is maybe a dumb question... does the Big 36 MM Nut need to come off before the Rotor comes off, or just the Hub? Maybe that's my problem...
  16. I assume I would be looking @ the front side of the studs where they go through the holes in the Rotor... if so, there is nothing like that on there. I'm going @ lunch and buying a bigger hammer...Worst case scenario is that I F' up my Rotor, and Hub/Bearing... at least it will come off one way or another. :mad:
  17. OK, I soaked the whole thing in PB Overnight and BEAT the CRAP out of it AGAIN and thing is NOT NOT NOT budging even a speck..it is TOTALLY fused to the hub apparantly. Any other advice other than get a bigger hammer and keep PB Blasting it? Wade
  18. I PB'ed the heck out of the whole thing before I gave up last night...
  19. Yup 4WD... and I beat the crap out of it with a deadblow rubber hammer and it didn't budge...
  20. OK... so I'm admittedly very new at most things mechanical, but I'm trying to learn as I go... I started the process of doing my Ball Joints this evening, and got stuck pretty early on... I have the Brake Caliper Off and now just trying to remove the Rotor so I can move forward to the Hub and bearing, etc... It seems that I should still be in the "easy" part of this disassembly/install, and I'm already stuck. BTW, I do have a service manual, and it just says "Remove Rotor from Hub" as if this thing is supposed to pop right off in my hand. No laughing please. SW2
  21. Where does one buy any of that stuff?
  22. Thanks, 99% sure they are stockers and not a combo... my selection of local AutoParts stores blow, but I will see what the local guys have... I looked @ Ebay and see em cheap but shipping cost 10x more than the part with those guys... Wade
  23. Both of my Headlights seem to have an obscene amount of water and moisture under the lens. I suspect this is common, and I should probably just change out the light assemblies. Should I just post on the Classifieds Froum and get something used and hope they leak less than my stockers, or are OEM New replacements cheap enough that I should just go ahead and get ones... if the latter, any recommendations for Online shopping locations... Thanks Wade (SW2)
  24. When I got my 89 MJ, the previous owner didn't smog it before I dropped the cash and drove it home... it had passed in July (I purchased in Dec 07), so I wasn't too worried...I just took it to the Shell station down the street, $45 (or whatever I paid for the SMOG test) and 60 minutes later, I was smogged legal and on my way. It's not that bad... at least we don't have full vehicle inspections like some area's back east... SW2
  25. ... I'm getting ready to think about doing this on my 89 when I have the front end apart to do my Ball Joints.... Is it really as easy as pulling the shafts from my MJ, throwing on the Outer Tube Seals and tossing in the Shafts from my 99 TJ D30 and overfilling the fluid? (Or doing it correctly and pulling the inner seals). I'm sure I'm oversimplifying... Wade
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