Brett486

Oh and the kicker, I have a classic car show I'm entered in Sept 8th, so I have to get this done asap.

Hey fellas, I've searched the forums and can't find any answers. I'm building my own lift kit based on a suggestion from a guy on "All Things Jeep Comanche" on facebook and I've come to a standstill. Here's what I've got for it so far. RE RE1300 3.5" Coil Springs for the front. I'm keeping the stock 2WD leaf pack in the back and putting on Chevy 2" drop shackles, which should net me 3" lift in the back. My question is which shocks should I get? It will primarily be my DD and maybe some light off-road use, until I do a 4WD conversion. Eventually... Also would y'all suggest any other suspension components for the front to avoid death wobble or steering problems? (Stabilizer, pitman arm, adjustable track bar) Attached are the shocks I've been looking at. TIA.

I might go grab em’ all. These should be there a bit, he said they haven’t moved in 5 years, so I don’t think he’ll crush em’.

Per side. I just picked up one driver side for mine.

I’ll be selling them for the same price I pay for them plus shipping. Not trying to make money. it took me four years to find one replacement tail light that wasn’t $250 on eBay. I'm putting this out there to see if it’s worth me buying up the last three tail lights from my local junk yard. (I took the one I’ve been looking for, obviously). Just trying to to pass on the lucky find. I found them for $100 each.

Found some OEM tail lights in good(ish) condition. Does anybody need? I pulled one driver side, but there’s more. This is just to see if anybody needs em’.

Damn auto correct. Not planning* prerunner*

4.0 with a stock Dana 35. I plan on regearing and possibly upgrading the diff. But for now it’s all street use. Not it planning on heavy off-road since it’s 2WD. Like I said, maybe pretender style with sand in mind and light trails. Also I'm not opposed to trimming. Had my eye on some flat fenders, which require trimming. Just don’t have the $$$ To buy a lift, wheels/tires and flares.

Alright y'all, I have scoured the forums to try and get an idea on what size rim and tire I need for my setup. I just need a little guidance from those that have done this before me. I'm about to install a 3" or 4.5" lift on the truck and I want to get the best size tire/wheel combo that I can fit, preferably without major fender trimming. I'm looking at either 32" or 33" X 11.5" by R15". Which do you think will work the best with these lift options? Also, depending on what tire I get, should I get a 15X7 rim or 15X8? I also have 1" spacers already installed. Also forewarning, my truck is currently 2WD, so I'm thinking of a PreRunner look. Thanks in advance.

Added! 3rd Comanche in DFW.

word. pm sent.

He guys, I'm looking to find a gauge cluster with working gauges and a tachometer to swap into my 88' MJ. The JYs around here suck so if anyone is around a pick'n'pull and can find an XJ or MJ with one that would be awesome. Please let me know. Thanks, Brett

could also be the tps (throttle position sensor), my 88 was idling super high, had it checked and came to find out that the tps lever was ABOVE the throttle control, where it should have been BELOW for accurate readings. pulled it out and put it in the right place and the idle dropped considerably. I had to tweak the idle up a bit cuz it dropped so much.

Haha good to know, I will definitely point them down. Thanks Pete, but I already ordered them. :dunno:

Yeah I'm trying to be diligent about keeping all the receipts for as long as I can, because I didn't do it for my Acura when I was modifying it. I'm sure at a certain point I will get tired of counting, but for now at least I have Comanche Club to keep an online record of everything I do to her. :thumbsup: I'm trying to be as accurate and thorough as anotherjeff, but that guys craaazzy with the things he has done to his rig. As far as I can tell, I'm at about 2200 with things I've added and changed plus original price from the PO. And I'm quickly realizing that it is in fact a, fix one thing something else breaks, situation (changed spark wires last night and then had to roll start it). But it's definitely fun, and alot more interactive then my Acura (because I can actually get to it, to work on it). So I'm definitely in the madness.. err Club. :cheers:

Found a set of both high tone and low tone OE horns on teamcherokee.com for $20. They have the Original bolts and brackets so I don't have to rig anything up, just wire in and go, so I went ahead and did that. $35 with shipping, so not that bad.

Yea that's not there on mine, however there is a wire running to nothing, so I guess the PO removed the horn for whatever reason. On the bright side I fixed the horn button to where the relay now makes a clicking noise in the fuse box. So that's some silver lining. To rockauto I go..

Alright guys, I hate to keep starting threads like this but I've searched high and low and can't find a clear solution. I desperately need to get my truck inspected (EXP 6/12) and the last thing on the Texas DPS list that I need is a working horn. So I've disconnected the horn button panel from the wheel and there are two wires. One running from the column to the button and one running from the button to nowhere. I know that the second slides into a hole on the column but still does not activate the horn while the truck is running. I've looked under the front bumper, drivers side and cannot find the horn. I'm lost and this is my only day off.. I need HELP!!! Horn: Under the front bumper: So as far as I can see the only thing under the front bumper is the front left turn signal. There is nothing below it, not the horn or anything for that matter. Please, any help would be much obliged!! Thanks, Brett

So I have a high idle problem, and while I think this is mostly due to a loose throttle body spring, i also think that the fact that my vacuum hose lines are held together in the middle by duct tape could also be a factor. Engine bay: Duct tape connection: So my question is, If I replace both vacuum hose harnesses, will that help the idle out? Parts: Rockauto #46003 Rockauto #46004 - or - NAPA #7151366 NAPA #7151367 Also, is this easy to DIY at home (aka plug n' play), because I see what looks like rubber cement around the connection to the valve cover and I'm not really sure what it is or if it's important. Thanks a lot guys. -Brett

The thing I can't figure out, is where that clip is and do I just pop it out? Is it the A connection? Or the B connection to the second rod? That's what I'm having trouble on figuring out. Thanks, Brett

So I got a lot gone today.. First, I headed to the local O'Reilly and picked up some parts I needed to pass inspection. Here's the list: 14.99 A Torx set so that I can work on the truck 3.89 1156BP Mini lamp 7.78 1157BP Mini lamp (X2) 3.99 1157NA-BP Mini lamp 3.89 194BP Mini lamp 19.98 H6054 Sylvania Sealed Beam 3.19 FLR536/552BP Hazard Flasher ------------------------------------------------------------- $62.47 Total I then replaced all of the fuses, including the Hazard Flasher Relay. And once I did this the turn signals worked, hazards worked, some of the brake lights worked & the reverse lights did NOT work. Hence why I bought all of the light bulbs. So I figured that while I was in there changing the light bulbs I might as well pop in new bulbs for all of them. So brand new headlight sealed bulbs went in, new front side marker bulbs (which were empty before), front turn signal bulbs, rear taillight/turn signal bulbs & reverse light bulbs. So now all of my lights work :thumbsup: - including the dash lights - except for my cab dome lights, which are both non-existent. Next-up: I began working on my door locks situation, but got to a point where I couldn't go any further and have not been able to get any advice on yet.. This is what I got too.. So if anybody has any pointers on how to detach the old lock cylinder from the rod so that I can attach the new locks please help me out and let me know. As of now that door panel remains off and I still can't lock my door. :fs1: - Brett

Ok cool, so do I need to pry the plate off first so that it falls down into the door? And yea you might be right, I'll just have to wait till I take the panel off before I can say there is no rod or not. Hell yea man, if we could work something like that out it would save me on shipping for sure. Let me take off the panel on the DS door first to see if the rod is lying in the door like Jim said, and I'll let you know. See this is as far as I have gotten on it so far, but I gotta go to work so I'm going to just shove it all back in and manually lock it from the inside. :hmm:

ok so i am changing out my lock cylinders today. i have got to the point where the u clip is off and i can pull the lock most of the way out. but i can't seem to get the rod out of the hole very far, or disconnected from the lock itself. any suggestions? also my DS door came with no lock, just a hole and I reached around in there and couldn't find the circular end of the rod like the other door. is there anywhere i can find this online? no JYs nearby worth a $#!&.

http://www.jeepsticker.com/mj.htm <-- that is the best place to look that I've found.

So I was taking some pictures trying to get a grasp on what I got on this thing and this is what I found: Looks to be a Dana 35. And my fuse box, that I'm about to put new fuses in. (also note there are extra fuses in that I don't think I need, as well as a drip behind it :( ) hmm...