robfg67

Guys, the front axle came from the same '94 Cherokee and here are its specs: Dana 30 High pinion - reverse cut - 27 spline, 1.16" diameter shafts, 7.13" ring gear & 5-260x u-joints- this axle is vacum non-disconnect. Will this be a direct replacement for my stock Dana 30?

He wrote: I do have a Dana 30, and I have been saving it because it fits TJ Wranglers also. We usually get about $650 for it, it's a very desirable axle. So if you'd like to make an offer, I'll consider, but otherwise I'm holding it out for a TJ job.

Pete, when you say find out what kind of TJ, do you mean model? I know the Rubicon has a Dana 44 in the front, but I thought all other models had the Dana 30.

Guys, this story gets better & better. I emailed the seller back exactly what Pete suggested-if it has good brakes & larger u-joints, I'll take it for $250 and he writes back to say: "OK, that will do! I've been holding onto it for awhile, so that works. And yes, brakes are good and it's got the larger ujoints" Pete, I owe you a cold one! Will this Dana 30 axle & brakes from a TJ Wrangler be a direct replacement? Do I need to use my brakes & rotors? Lastly, other than a stamp or tag is their an easy way to determine that this axle has 4.10 gears?

Perches are for the shocks?

Pete, I wouldn't blame you if you are laughing right now. I thought the leafs had to be relocated for any size lift. So no need for perches to be welded!

I'm sure this guy is trying to recoup some of the money he 'lost' on the rear axle, but $650-he's out of his mind! Pete, I'm interested in better gears for more 'pep' and a modest 1-2" lift for a more 'aggressive' appearance. I was thinking spacers for the front and new shackles for the leafs.

Pete, thanks for the info on splines. I just wasn't sure if this is something I needed to address now. I guess my leafs are ok. They are 20 years old and somewhat rusty. The shakles are intact and there are no strange noises. Is there anything obvious I should look for that would indicate trouble?

Hey Mitch, the shop that's selling it is located in Providence, RI so I can pick it up myself. I understand that this 8.25 is not as strong as the 8.8 or Dana 44 but I don't plan on using the truck for any serious off-roading but want the added "pep" of 4.10 gears. Get this, I know I need to get a Dana 30 front axle with matching gears, so I emailed the seller and asked if he had one. This is what he wrote back: "I do have a Dana 30, and I have been saving it because it fits TJ Wranglers also. We usually get about $650 for it, it's a very desirable axle. So if you'd like to make an offer, I'll consider, but otherwise I'm holding it out for a TJ job."

I plan on heading out to my local JY this weekend...so should I be looking for ZJ rotors & calipers? I've never seen a Liberty in a JY. I'm aware that I also need to bring the axle somewhere to have the perches welded on. Do I need different leafs for this axle for a SOA? If so, is Motion Offroad a good source for new leafs? Lastly, what is all this talk about splines. Will I also need one of these too?

I got it for $5. I have my next project!

Pete, the pads are new and the rotors are good. Would this disk brake conversion write-up apply to this 8.25 axle? http://www.links4jeeps.com/writeups/d35 ... index.html

If I win the auction & swap the rear axle, can I just change the gears in the front Dana 30 stock axle to match? I don't plan on doing any off-roading.

ZJ or WJ?

My stock gears are 3.07, so if the price stays reasonable, I'll bid on it. Also, it's only about 40 minutes away. What is the 'going rate' for this axle and what vehicles would be the best donor for rear disk brakes?

Why is the 97+ preferable? What about the spline? I'm quite a newbie with this!

Can this axle be swapped with my stock Dana 35 fairly easily? Would I need weld perches? Would I need to change splines? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... Track=true

I wonder if it comes with a top!

Went to Holland's “all you can carry for $50” event on Saturday and did ok. Most of the parts I grabbed came from a 1990 Cherokee that was just added to the lot. If not for that Cherokee, it would have been a bust. I was last there in early spring and they have the same 8 or so Cherokees and they have been picked clean. • Turn signal switch with harness (my hazard light switch was broken) • Leather wrapped steering wheel with Allen-wrench head cap • Door Ajar switches • Fuse box (some of the contacts on my box are broken) • Center console heating duct parts • Wiper motor & linkage (my wipers are slow & erratic) • Hood (my hood’s paint job is bad) • Weather stripping for drivers’ side door (cold air would rush in through original) • Silver/Black Bezel Cluster (upgrade over my plain black bezel) • Fog light switch (still looking for fogs) • Ashtray with lamp (back-up or future sale) • Cigar lighter (back-up or future sale) • Under hood relay cover with both push nuts (keep the spaghetti wires clean) I was also hoping to find a booster/master cylinder from a WJ Grand Cherokee but there were none to be found.

Success tastes good! I removed the rotors by using the bolt and the magic of power steering. I removed the 3 bolts off the rear of the hub and the axle shaft (with hub attached) came out with just the tap of a 3 pound hammer. The u-joint swap was a piece of cake but I need to get new dust shields as they were rusted to pieces. Thanks for everyone’s help.

Does anyone know if the 3 bolts in the rear of the hub need to be in or out in the method Superwade references? I want to give this one a try.

That's not very encouraging. I have the u-joint puller tool for only 2 more days. Time to PB Blast some more.

aemsee, I'll take your advice and replace the 3 bolts on the inside of the hub so I don't split it. Let me restate your instructions on hub removal to see if I understand... 1. Straighten wheels 2. Attach the 36MM socket wrench on the hub nut 3. Start engine 4. turn steering wheel to force wrench to loosen nut Can you let me know if I understand you correctly? A picture would be great.

Ok, I Removed the three bolts that hold the hub on from the rear as well as the cotter pin and axle nuts and the rotors aren't budging. I just got finished soaking the front and rear of the rotors with PB Blaster and I'm calling it a night. I'll hit it with more PB in the morning and try again after work. I'll also stop by NAPA to see if they rent the three jawed puller. Thanks guys!

Hey CW, no "chinese nuts" on the studs and I don't own a three jawed puller. Perhaps I'll try to pull the u-joint with the shaft in place. The young children need to get the ear muffs ready because this won't be a child-friendly experience!