CWLONGSHOT

I made mine. I cut and wended in a piece of extention tube into my bumper. then added some triangulated pieces that attach to the frame in two places each. I built it more for a extraction point than for actual towing, but I would not hesitate to tow a med trailer with it. CW

In my TJ with 33"s I generally use 9 and 10 pounds. that is heavier than the MJ and works well for my kind of wheeling and terrain. You can see my one rear tire in the pic, its not badly pinching the sidewall and is really grabbing the rock. While the front @ 10# is micely bulging the sidewall and thats got 2# more air and it is heavier. Image Not Found I went to 14 first, that did not even bulge te side walls! 12 was not much better, 10 got a good bulge going up front but not in the rear, so I went down a bit more, back there. But I think you may be right at 8#, that is a bit low, 9-10 should work just about as well and afford a bit more bead retention power. I hit a number of rocks and logs a bit faster than I would have liked, but no problems. I do not worry too much about blowing a bead as I have a 20# CO2 tank, that makes short work of any bead problems. Image Not Found CW

I am VERY pleased with the flex from them!!! But I DEFFINATELY need to look at my bump stops!! the front is at least a inch too short and the rear is NOT THERE!!! Any one know where I can get a set of 4" extended MJ rear bump stops and a couple hocky pucks for the front??? I won't wheel again untill I get the bump stops, I don't need to rearch my new springs!!! :)

My local club had a trail run today. It was to a local trail, fairly easy one, perfect for my MJ!! It did REALLY well for being open at both ends. I walked right up a number of places, where YJ's and TJ's slipped and slid. There was one guy there in a LandRover Discovery. Its got some funky center diff, he was about stuck on everything!! I was able to get him thru a couple harder spots with judicious use of the brakes!!! I aired way down. I went to 8lbs and I only have 31's That. combined with the LWB and MAN this thing can climb!!! :bowdown: ;) Here is some pics. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found CW

Nope, they REALLY are tail gate protectors!! Dodge is making the gates REALLY thick these days!! :eek: CW

QUOTE: 1: where can I get the gray plastic clip part that the bulb goes into that holds it into the dash? When I did my gage upgrade I went to the parts store and asked for a bunch of lights for the dash. They supplied me with them already IN THOSE GRAY SOCKETS!! You will need two sizes to change out all lights a sockets. WAGNER LIGHTING PRODUCTS # PC194 (bigger ones) and #PC74 (the itty bitty ones) Hope this helps, CW

Well, replacement rockers at least. :D :oops: I read a thread somebody wrote some time back over on www.NAXJA.com , about using a rear tail gate cap for rocker protection. Well its only aluminum so its not really much protection,. but its really nice to cover rusted out rockers!! Its DeeZee part number 2143B for a 2002-06 Dodge Ram pick up. The contour/profile is almost exactly the same as the XJ/MJ rockers!! When I got my MJ, the rockers where not that bad, but would have been if not taken care of right away. There was small rust holes for most of their length. I removed all effected metal, back to solid steel and cleaned and prepped area for RUST BULLET. This is much like POR15 but a top coat is not required. I left it like this for about 4 months. Tonight I decided to tackle the diamond plate rocker covers. They are WAY long for the MJ, but almost perfect on a four door XJ. I positioned one end so it tucked up under the flair about 2". Then marked for the cuts at the beginning and ending of the door opening and then again at the end of the cab. For the front cut its to remove the lip/fold that is the back side of the cap where it would screw to the back of the tail gate. In the door jamb area the lip of the diamond plate is a bit too much for the front portion of the door. So I just bent it up so it would ride up the vertical portion of the rocker. This allowed the whole panel to be tucked up nicely against the body for a nice tite fit. At the rear of the door, I choose to just cut the lip and flatten the piece so the plate extends up higher on the body behind the door. At the end of the cab, I just cut to kinda match the contours of the cab. Then I attached everything to the MJ using some BLACK Silicone at the door jambs and lotsa pop rivets!! Here is the Pass side finished: Here is the Drivers side all done: I ran out of light so I do not have any really good shots in day light, but I like it and it looks very nice. Almost like they where made for this purpose!! Took me about 3 hours start to finish. NEXT is my actual rocker protection!!! Maybe one of you needs this, Good luck. CW

The offsett center section on the 8.8 is nothing to be conserned about. ESP when you considder the legnth of the MJ drive shaft. If you want to gain width and just want to try it, its up to you, but just so you know, it will not make any difference, if the drive shaft is slightly toward the right rear wheel. I have a 8.8 in my TJ and that has a super short drive shaft. That offsett pumpkin, dosen't hurt anything. The longer the shaft the more any possible angle problem is negated. As far as the 1.25" shorter legnth, you mention you will be getting steel rims, why not just let the 4" of BS work for you and not worry about it? the fact that the front and rear track are different won't hurt anything either. Have you driven behind any chevys or ford vans lately? They are wider in the front on purpose!! CW

Pete, Just two stand offs? How much deflection do you get? I think I will incorperate the pinch seam into mine. But I am going with three at least because mine is a LWB. I was worried welding to the "FRAME" as its meerly layered sheets of steel in the center sections. the front and rear will be attached at the rear spring hanger and the front at the LCA mount. I am thinking the center one nearer the rear as there will be no pince seam there for added stregnth.... Any body else with some pics?/ I really would appreciate them... CW

THANKS It does help... Any pictures??? That would REALLY help explain what/how you did it!! CW

Guys, I am going to begin some rocker protection for the MJ. I have a couple pieces of 1.75" tubing for stock. My plan is to cut the two long pieces about 84" in legnth and three "standoffs" to attach it to the "frame" about 12" each. I will attach the rear mount near the front of the rear leaf bolt and the front mount, just behind the front lower control arm bolt. I have selected these areas because of the thicker steel there to weld to. I would also like to add a center mount as mine is a LWB and a seven foot rocker guard is a bit long! :eek: My question is two fold. 1) Whats your opinion, on my plan. OR what would you do different? 2) How should I attach the center mount, sleves thru the "frame" and bolts. I cannot really just weld it on there...can I? CW

It wasn't too bad....$400 and change...but she is HAPPY. there is ALOT ot be said for a happy wife!! I scored myself a new 12V cordless impact gun as well!!! I have been looking for a new cordless drill and thought one of these might fit the bill. It was $125, takes a 1/4" bit, turns at 2550 rpms and provides 1175 in lbs of torque. http://www.toolbarn.com/product/hitachi/WH12DMR/ Best of all, its the same batt as my old drill and that means I can keep my old friend!!! I had called Hitachi and was told the batts for it where no longer avalible. the new ones are a different shape, but identicle stats and fit and funtion fine!! Back to the really important stuff...Bill and I cleaned the TB yesterday. now I have a bit of a stumble off idle. I changed out the solinoid and now that works fine but the idle is still a bit high. Its 1000-1150 idle and 800-900 in gear. Its a intricate process to adjuat idle...don't wanna screw anything up but would LOVE the idle lower....guess its another trip to SVE!!! CW

I AGREE!! Its the DISCO not the T-case!! I believe www.GOJEEP.com has a write up on maitaince of this unit. Not hard, check the vacuum lines as well. Check the pass side inner fender. Is there a little bracket with a blue thingie attached? It should have a wire or two and a air line into the bottom. This is your switch to turn the light on the dash for 4WD. If no, yours may be the wired version all on the disconect at the axle. In any event, its most likely that your front axle is NOT disconnecting when the T-case is shifted out of 4WD. Annoying but not a huge deal if the front is still open. CW CW

If the rain holds off....I am going to try to get the mount. But at the very least, I am going to try to add an additional hanger. I also need to adjust my center hanger as I am running a straight muffler and without the offsets it dosen't hang correctly. Juan, there is a couple NAPA's I forgot to call. I'll try them when they open this AM. In the mean time.....Sandras washing machine crapped out!!! No agitation, wish I HAD NO AGITATION!! :roll: :mad: CW

Thats kinda what I'm hoping for....man it ran aweful for a few minutes after the cleaning!! :eek: :D If the rain holds off long enough this AM, I'll get back out there and finish..... Thanks again for the help!! RE, I just may need thet solinoid, if mine don't work!! CW

THANK YOU EVERYONE!! I checked everything today. i re checked the idle and the lines. I forun the solinoid for the EGR was faulty as well as my TB was FILTHY!!!! I cleaned the TB, discoed and plugged the feed line into the solinoid and the idle is beautiful!!! I have a box of small parts from the XJ I chopped up I believe I have one of these dohickeys...hopefully it will be working! :) The idle is a tad high now...I'll adjust that after I replace the solinoid. In case it changes anything... CW

Peter already wrote that! what are you smokin? ...BOB well, it was some good stuff apparently. IT WAS GOOD....In fact that IS what it was!!! I did not notice how close it was to the X member whan I replaced those bolts in the mount. the tranny mount is oil soalked from my rear main seal leak and has allowed the tranny and T-case to compress it. Redusing the distance of the exhaust and the X member!!! Now I just need to locate a mount..all local parts places need to order...If I am lucky, one guy will be able to get me one for noon Saturday!! Thank you ALL for the tips and suggestions!!! I had my hands on the noise and didnt even know it!!! a friend went right to it after driving my rig. CW

In the four lines running to the T-case, is there any "jumpers" on these lines? What I mean is are they proprietary to the T-case or is there a "T" in there suppling vacuum to something else? In looking for my "clunking noise" I took off the vacuum fitting to the T-case. I am running a POSI_LOK, and do not need the fitting or hoses. Then I had a thought, is vacuum in these lines used for anything else? like tranny? I believe the AW4 is computer controlled but does it still need/use vacuum, right? I put the fitting back on. My idle was WAY LO!! I figured I must have a vac leak..right?? I checked as much as I could find/see. I found a red line behind the vac canister on the pass side fire wall. I discoed this and plugged the line. I now do not have any vac at the T-case. (I THOUGHT, I had done this months back when the POSI_LOK went in...my bad) There are four lines leading into the T-case and three into the disco, the fourth is a red line for supply vacuum. These lines are still in place but none are connected. I would really like to remove all to clean things up. But wanted to ask to be sure they where not utilized for something else I cannot see. Any one know for sure??? At first the idle was the same, but gradually the idle came up and now purrs even better/smoother than before. I THINK I am fine....time will tell. Thanks again, CW

Here is some more info..(Kinda makes the answers harder..sorry ;) ) Sway bar bushings and endlink.discos new, checked and greased. All control arms new as well as ALL bushings changed out. Even the PIA ones on the axle. All bolts checked and torqued. Peter, I ran out and checked this, last night. (On your request) I found the mount under/beside the T-case rusted thru. I thought this was it!! But after the repair, (Fender washers and new bolts) The noise is still there. ;( It REALLY sounds like a bad motor mount.....I still havent checked the tranny mount, but I just don't think it can move enough to make this noise if the motor mounts are fine.... I am afeared its a combo of the tranny AND T-case. HOPEFULLY, its just the T-case. Its up to my buddie Juans home Sat AM for the T-case swap..... Juan, I am heading down to Bills tonight, I want him to hear it and offer an opinion first. I'm getting the rebuild parts for the 231, as well... CW

Hey man, How did this job go? What did you find out??? Imquiring minds want to know!!! CW

This one has plagued me for about three weeks now.the noise occurs upon accelloration and when hitting a med sized bump in the road. To my ear, it sounds like its coming from the pass front tar area. but at times I can also "feel" it in the center near the T-case. I thought for sure it was motor mounts as the noise occurs upon med/hard acceloration. Motor mounts proved FINE!! I found the intermeadiate pipe loose where it exits the manafold. That WAS a noise, just not the one in question. I also found a slightly loose lower track bar bolt. This may or may not have been a sorce of a noise, but I tightened it anyhow. :) I have also removed the rear drive shaft and checked the universals as I have recently lifted this truck. They are fine. I re-greased them and reinstalled. I DID find some unwanted movement in the T-case output. I changed the fluid and found some metal particles suspended in the fluid. I also pulled the tranny dipstick. the fluid is a bit darker than new and has a touch of a burned smell, not strong smell, but not nice and clean as I'd like it. With the unit body, pinpointing the location of noises is near impossible!! HELP!! Got any ideas?? I have NOT checked the tranny mount...I am planning on swappin in another 231 T-case and rebuilding the one in there now anyhow.....Doing the swap this Sat...... CW

Be MIGHTY careful and LOTSA lube, you don't wanna break those puppys off!!! I just did mine last friday!!! Did not break them either!! :) Good luck, CW

I threw on a cherry bomb when I first got my MJ!! Its nice, not too loud. Although now that its a year later...its getting a bit louder, but you just can't beat the durability and cost!! Here is a pic; CW

As for the front end stuff, doors forward, anything for a XJ will fit your MJ. Unsure what an "overall" bar is but if there is such a thing for the front of a XJ, its very likely it will bolt right up to your MJ as well!! Out back things are a bit different...... CW

Other than the squeaking, Pete mentioned, it dosen't really matter. You could do this either way. CW