CWLONGSHOT

He has a jeep only shop near me and can mount all size tars. he does a good job with his fanct balancer. I got my new springs in mine over the week end, I am ready for the 33's!! CW Here it is on 33's!!! CW

I also got to beat down my front pinch seams today!! With the frnder trimming I had to remove the inner fender wells, exposing the dreaded tire shredding pinch seam!! I made some cuts almost up to the junture of the two pieces. BE CAREFUL to cut BETWEEN the spot welds. Then I applied some construction adhesave behind the pinch seam. Ten the fun starts, get your favorite hammer or BFH as I like to call it and carefully hit the pinch seam in to the center of the jeep. Keep going untill its nice and flat with the remaining inner fenders. Apply more adhesive and smooth it out nice so its all smooth and factory looking. Now allow that to dry and liberally coat it with under coating. CW

Well, unless someone has swapped it out, ALL mj's came with a HI-Pinion D30, so that should be what you have. PICS would help.... Going by he numbers, it also looks like its got 4:10 gears...was it a 4cyl by chance??? CW This is a HI PINION D30: Image Not Found

I got the bracing in the rear today!! I decided to add more than just two at the bottom....I added one at the very top and one more each at 2:30 and 10:30. I used the flair mounting bolts and drilled into the pinch seam inside the wheel well. Then added a couple good coats of undercoating. Way sturdy now!! :thumbsup: :loveit: CW

Well I got a chance last night to do my rocker protection. I made it from poop pipe :D , It will be fine for this application, and it was clean poop pipe. I used sch 40, because the sch 80 was out of stock. The difference is the wall thickness, 80 is about 1/4" think while 40 is closer to 1/8". I choose the 1.25" size, because this is measured from the inside its really a shade over a 1.75 OD. I used a hole saw to cut the pieces and "birds mouth" them at athe same time. This way, they fit really nice for welding. I choose to use four standoffs, maybe I should have gont to five as thts is 80" long....time will tell if I chose correctly. For the very front and back I choose to weld directly to the "frame". As there is thicker metal here for the front LCA mount and rear spring hanger. For the center two positions, I was worried as this is a unitbody vehicle and the layered sheetmetal that makes up the frame is not as thick as the steel in a reg frame would be. So,I added two pieces of 3" angle iron welded to the frame. Then the standoffs welded to that. I positioned some jack stands under the rockers and decided what I liked for positioning. I decided to keep it was close to the body as possible. Rather than pull it out so it could be used as a step. I cleaned the frame in all positions and my friend tacked everything into position. Then removed it for final welding. Once everything was stuck together, we positioned it back on the truck and welded it to the "frame". I will be adding some more bracing to tie the rails to the body. I did not have enough to do this last night, but I will add it soon.I will use 1" - 1/8" wall square tubing. Running from the back end of the cab to just in front of my front most mount. This way I can hit the bracketry AND the pinch seam. I will bolt thru the pinch seam and weld to the bracketry, then weld to the rails on the bottom. I think it came out really good and is MUCH stronger than I expected. Everything I read said you MUST connect to the pinch seam. this is where all the stregnth comes from..... I thru the hilift og there to see if I needed another stand off for the bed area. it seems pretty strong. this shot the rear tar is just off the ground and there was about 1/8" of deflection in the rails. As you can see I positioned the jack so it was between the two rear stand offs. Now...if we can only get this rain to end....I could get some paint and under coating back on it!!!! CW

Well, replacement rockers at least. I read a thread somebody wrote some time back over on www.NAXJA.com , about using a rear tail gate cap for rocker protection. Well its only aluminum so its not really much protection,. but its really nice to cover rusted out rockers!! Its DeeZee part number 2143B for a 2002-06 Dodge Ram pick up. The contour/profile is almost exactly the same as the XJ/MJ rockers!! When I got my MJ, the rockers where not that bad, but would have been if not taken care of right away. There was small rust holes for most of their length. I removed all effected metal, back to solid steel and cleaned and prepped area for RUST BULLET. This is much like POR15 but a top coat is not required. I left it like this for about 4 months. Tonight I decided to tackle the diamond plate rocker covers. They are WAY long for the MJ, but almost perfect on a four door XJ. I positioned one end so it tucked up under the flair about 2". Then marked for the cuts at the beginning and ending of the door opening and then again at the end of the cab. For the front cut its to remove the lip/fold that is the back side of the cap where it would screw to the back of the tail gate. In the door jamb area the lip of the diamond plate is a bit too much for the front portion of the door. So I just bent it up so it would ride up the vertical portion of the rocker. This allowed the whole panel to be tucked up nicely against the body for a nice tite fit. At the rear of the door, I choose to just cut the lip and flatten the piece so the plate extends up higher on the body behind the door. At the end of the cab, I just cut to kinda match the contours of the cab. Then I attached everything to the MJ using some BLACK Silicone at the door jambs and lotsa pop rivets!! You can see the area where I bent the lip up vertical so it fit tightly to the body. Its the forward portion under the hinges. Here is the Pass side finished: Here is the Drivers side all done: I ran out of light so I do not have any really good shots in day light, but I like it and it looks very nice. Almost like they where made for this purpose!! Took me about 3 hours start to finish. NEXT will be the actual ROCKER PROTECTION!!! Gotta get some more stock. I need the 3" and 1" angle iron. then I can get going! CW

Last night I did the rear flairs. They also came out better than I expected. but I had WAY more rust than I thought. (don't you always!!) I need to add some bracing as I removed most on the inner wheel well as it was badly rusted. BEFORE: During (rust): DURING (Trimming): During ( The trial fit) : DONE: CW

I completely agree with 87. Some pics would help explain what you are talking about.... CW

Got any pics...I cannot visualize wht you did here??? CW

Tar size I am running now is 31" the pics with the factory steel wheel are 33". The lift in the front is somewhere between 4.25 and 5.25 inches. I think its closer to the 4" mark myself. The rear is approx 5.5". CW

Dirty, Thanks for the tips!! I decided to leave part of the "bend" in the fender for stregnth as I really don't need it for tar size. (rather not regear this one) I relocated the center support uo to the center hole of the reloacted flair and everything is almost as solid as it was before I cut!! The pinch seam is next on the adjenda. This week end to be precise. They can really destry a set of tars if you don't!!!! I also do it as you describe, but I add a generous amount of construction adheasive behind the seam before beating it over and more after wards. You need to be careful of the spot welds there as well, don't cut them!!! With rubber gloves, smooth out everything and allow to dry. Comes out really nice and factory looking!! The rear flairs are being moved because of rust. Its likely they will need to be moved up as high as you describe. Thats Saturdays project as well!!! CW

This worried me as well...hope thay work out for you. Personally I would limit the flex they have to endour....IE NO OFFROADING!!! Good luck, CW

Roadless, Unsure as to the amount of lift I have. Because I am using well used 3" Rustys coils and I am the third owner! :eek: :oops: They have sagged quite a bit. I am thinking I am getting somewhere between 1.5 and 2" of lift from them. Then I have the acos spacers, they give 1.5 with out adjustment, then I have the spanner turned down about 1.5 - 1.75" more. So if you do the math....I should be somewhere between 4.5 and 5.25" of lift. New coils are going in this week end. 4" lift ones. Then I will adjust the ACOS's to get the front about 1-1.5" lower than the back. I trimmed the fenders last night, so now I have to do the leveling with a level!!! :nuts: ;) Then next week its 33" tars for my baby!!! CW

A 10.5 " width tar will clear with 4" of BS. As far as the BS is involved. Meaning it will do nothing for the amount of lift your rig has. The trouble on MJ/XJ is when you want to run a wider tar. It hits hard at the lower rear edge of your sheet metal. I am in the process of fitting a set of 33X10.5x15 tars on 15x7 outlaw II rims. I have a 33x9.5x15 as a spare. Using spacers I was able to see just how the wider tar and rim will fit on my rig. Here is a shot with 31" tars and the factory opening. (Flair removed) The rims here are 15X8 with 3.25" of BS. To little BS for the MJ/XJ IMHO, but its what I had.... Here is a shot of a 33" tar with same lift and 5.25" od BS. Here is a shot with same tar only using spacers to "mock" it up as if it was a wider rim with a wider tar: Hope this didnt confuse you more.... :oops: CW

Your speedo cable needs lube. Its a pain in the arse to do. Try removing the gages and spraying in some dry lude. Trouble is you never know where the dry/unlubbed spot is. It could be at the bottom...... CW

Thank you for taking the time to look at my COMANCHE!!! DISCLAIMER: Image Not Found Here it is the day I brought it home. Not much to look at, but everything starts somewhere!! Here is how the MJ looks in the SPRING of 2007: Image Not Found Image Not Found Here we are, AUGUST 2008 Here it is in Spring 2010 Late Summer 2010 Its gone thru a couple stages to get where you just saw it... Below is where my story starts. Hope you enjoy the continuing story... :cheers: :popcorn: CW --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I trimmed my front fender's tonight. It came out better than I expected!!! Here it is before: Here it is after: I moved the flairs up about 1.5". Now for the rears.... CW

Better is realitive, cheaper...not in the long run. At least not for me...my factory leafs where not the same lift. IE they sagged differently. SOA gets a bad rap because people do this with tired old million mile springs. New springs and a SOA are the best option, and with it your "cheaper" lift. I have the 4" lifted pack with a longer shackle. I sit just as high as a buddies with a spring over. Mine is cleaner, easier and rides awesome. I chose the 4.5 as I perfer a bit of the higher front to back rake. Here it is with a level setup. AKA high lift on the nose: CW

I second the Skyjacker Hydros. They are a good price and offer a pretty nice ride IMHO. :D I am running a combo of BDS in the front and Ranchos out back. All hydraulic. I won them, in raffles, so I did not have much choice.... They ride nice enough. CW

I agree, as near as I can figure it will be a nice and near level combo. I have the Rustys rear springs and 3" rustys fronts with A.C.O.S.'s making up the difference. But the 3" coils are sagging badly, so Its time to up grade. I have a set of 4" coils from another XJ project. So I am going to try those first. BUT, If that dosen't work...its out with the ACOS's and a new set of 4.5 RE coils for me too!!!! CW

OK, he is my question, I am looking for opinions here: I have a chance to get a set of 33X10.5X15 BFG MT's. I would put them on the MJ. Now there is plenty of lift, but I am conserned because when I tried the 33's from the TJ they hit hard at the lower rear edge of the front wheel openings. BUT, those where 33X12.5's on 8" rims with 3.25" of BS. I will trim if needed, BUT would like to get them to fit with out trimming. I did trim a bit, maybe an inch from the offending edge and replaced the flairs a short time back. I have longer adj LCA's on already. The last allignment, the caster was just plus of mid scale. I like my lifted Jeeps to be about max caster. I mention caster, because, I would legnthen them about 1/2" if the new coils (Read on) provide the correct amount of lift for a good balance with the rear and appropriate ammount of pos caster. I am also going to swap out my tired, second hand Rustys 3" coils. They have sagged BAD. I doubt I have even 2" of lift from them. So I will be getting a new set, I'm thinking of R.E. coils, 4.5"ers. As I am at about 5.5" lift in the back. The measurement from ground to edge of my flair is right at 39" while my front is just over 36". (Of coarse this measurement includes tar height but you get the idea of the "rake" I currently have.) So I would like another inch to inch and a half up front to get a more level posture. I have ACOS now, but they are about as high as I feel comfortable making them. Thats why I am considerign the new coils now. I may or may not leave the ACOS in, depends on what I see/get with the new coils. Even at its lowest setting, ACOS's provide 1.25" of lift. I know the RE coils run tall. As for the rims to make this whole thing work...and my REAL question. I am thinking 4 to 4.5" of BS will do this nicely and keep the rubber out of the fenders. Anyone been here and know for sure what fits and whet don't??? I have a set of five, factory 5 spoke aluminimum 15X7 rims with 5.25" of BS AND a set of AR outlaw II's 15X7 with 3.75" of BS. The factory will be not enough at 5.25" of BS and the outlaw II's may be too much at 3.75"..... OR because they are 7" not 8", they will be perfect???? Thanks for the opinions!!! CW

http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... ht=bumpers

OR do what I did!! Replace the rockers with diamond plate covers THEN rock rail protection!!! Its EASY!!! Just but Dodge 2002 and up tail gate protecters and cut to fit. The profile of them is about perfect for rockers on MJ/XJ Jeeps. Then buy/build the rock protection you like. Here is what I made: Good luck, CW

http://www.carpartswholesale.com/cpw/je ... panel.html Above is just one place, quadratec sells them as does 4wd parts wholesalers. Do a search online and you'll see many places where you can order these and many other parts and have them delivered to your door!! Good luck, CW

THIS IS GOOD ADVICE!!! All I would add is you should at the very least get yourself a CHILTONS/HAYES manuel for the make and model vehicle you are working on. Like lug nuts they are torqued in a specfic order and like listed above done in stages. NEVER should you use any sealant on head gaskets unless SPECFICALLY told to by the manufacturer. NEW head bolts are a good idea. CW

Please splain piping.... YES, I do have plans, but frankly I really do not see it adding alot of regidity. The way I have positioned the standoffs, (varing angles) it has provided mucho regidity. I had purchased two pieces of 1" square tubing to tie the rails into the pinch seams. But only bought two 48" pieces. I needed 54" pieces, so I didnt put them in. I chose the square and the extra legnth so I could rest it on the bracketry ribs that the factory molded in. That way I could weld (stitch) to those brackets, bolt to the pinch seam. Then weld the stuff to the tops of the standoffs. In this pic you can see the end of the square tube and how its too short to extend under the brackerty. I am pretty sure there is room to sneak them in from the rear still now. I had intended on doing this, but its prety damn rigid now, I don't know that its really worth the cost/effort. CW