87manche

No body damage yet? :???: Your not trying hard enough 87' haha... :cheers: Oh there's body damage, but nothing severe, and nothing that couldn't easily be hammered out (rear quarters) It's just a shame that I'm going to be cutting into rust free undamaged fenders and bedsides. Oh well. 33's are on the must have list now. 33's and 3" ought to be fun. I may got with 32x9.5's if I have to cut too much. Pizza cutters are cool.

A lift shackle for a cherokee will not produce the advertised lift. MJ shackles are bigger than XJ shackles from the factory. If you want to go shackles look at full sized chevy drop shackles.

I told myself I wouldn't cut the fenders until they got body damage, but I want 33's. I promise I'll make it look nice :)

well, they've also got nuts to thread bolts into :)

do you have the nut that went on them? take it to a home depot or something, they've got a panel of studs to screw nuts on so you can figure out size/pitch.

Id replace those with studs. There's a reason. It's likely so you can use the bellville washers with the nuts, so there's some "spring" in there.

I used whatever they had, it's not collapsed or anything. It was goodyear hose, it's for windshield washer fluid and vaccum according to the parts guy. http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDeta ... mber=65111 $20 get's you enough to do it all.

I almost bought another one the other day, but she would have killed me. lately I've been looking for a Diesel rabbit pickup. Cause I like to drive odd things, adn I want to make my own fuel :)

didn't know if he was up to removing the rockers. It is the best way to do it, then you can soak the rockers and the pushrods and make sure they're clean.

i've taken to replacing the hard nylon lines with rubber when they break. I cut them where they go into their repsective connectors and then just replace the length of the tubing with rubber hose, routed how I want it, to the other side. Eventually I'll have no silly nylon vacuum lines, and life will be good.

my junk is going to get 33's on 3" soon. 33x10.5 TSLs on stock rims so I can tuck them in the fenders. Yes, I own a sawzall. it will be a shame to cut up a rust free MJ. Don't look Eagle.

agreed, you'll be at the upper limit of what a half-tons suspension and brakes can handle. When you do get a flatbed make sure you get a load equalizing hitch, that will vastly help out your rear suspension.

that's what running pennzoil will get you, parrafin based oils=the nasty.

my 4.0 likes 10w40.

that's nasty, but not the worst I've ever seen. The first hing you NEED to do it plug all of the oil galleys with shop rags. You don't want any of that crud getting into the block oil passages. Then I would scrape up the majority of it with a small putty knife, then attack it with solvent, brake cleaner, seafoam, naptha whatever your choice. i'd then pour some oil down the oil passages to flush out any solvent that got in there. Then drain the pan and go about putting it back together with fresh oil.

Do they look at the bottom side of the intake? ( FL has no inspections in my part of the state :D ) I've got no inspections here as we're rural farming, no idea if they inspect the bottom, but I imagine that since the EGR is primarily for emmisions control that they would inspect that part specifically.

it's going to the EGR solenoid. You can sleeve it with rubber line and just hose clamp it.

I did all new brakes on mine when I did the axle swap, it's cheap. I bet I've got $200 in brakes and that includes new hardlines on the rear axle and a new rubber line in the rear. New Calipers, pads, rotors up front New wheel cylinders, shoes and hardware out back. my drums were good so I reused those.

31's will fit with stock suspension on a 4WD model. and stock rims. ust rubs a bit on the LCA's, and that's easily fixed with 2 washers in the steering stops.

I'd take a long hard look at the balljoints being way too tight.

wheeling in NC, almost blew the motor first day, 4 hours from my brothers house and 14 hours from mine. It's what the nearest parts store had, and kept me wheeling for 2 more days. would I have chosen it over a $10 stocker no, is it far and away a better unit, hell yes. It flows substantially more air than my brothers stock unit, and it has less current draw and isn't as noisy.

true, but it will likely fail any kind of visual test.

x2. I'd still switch it so it could be turned off at highway speeds, just to save wear and tear on the $80 fan. So just run 12V to a single throw switch from a switched source in the fuse box. Then you'll only need to run one small guage wire up to the relay, and everything else can be done in large guage wire up front. I think I used 12GA

I've got a hayden 10 " It fits just right, and pulls way more air than the mechanical fan at idle. I can feel it sucking air in from the grill when it's on and I put my hand in front of it. Required some minor trimming to get it to fit flat against the rad, the upper rad support was in the way a bit. Best 10 PM at a campsite mod I ever did :)

if it's not leaking it's dry