cmcolfax

Lookin' good El Jefe. Now where'd ya get them sporty wheels? :D BTW... I have the 5th for ya... 'cause ya gotta have a matching spare! Sorry I did not get to clean them all nice-nice before you picked them up. -cmc-

C'mon Jeff... ya coulda linked the "action" pic! Rear DS is getting measured today. Sorry for this thread not being Comanche... but it is funny! -cmc-

I run the 30 x 9.50's on my ZJ w/ a 2" BB. Jerry (tjbliley) runs 31 x 10.50's on his WJ w/ a 2" BB. I like 'em. The ZJ is not a wheeling rig, but they are a reasonably aggressive AT, with excellent road manners. All of the reviews I have read say they get loud if you don't rotate them. I have +/- 5000 miles on mine and no noticable wear at all. I run 'em at 30psi. I think Jerry has about the same mileage, but more wear b/c he uses his WJ for towing. HTH -cmc-

I love how all of Jeff's pics have a BudLight can in them... kinda like mine always having a Silver Bullet in them... :cheers:

Ya... it's not actually gonna DRIVE like that... just holding it together to push it in and out of the garage. Swapping in another t-case and a t-case drop next week to get it drive-able. Needless to say, Jeff and I :cheers: and :rotfl2: whenwe looked at it. OK... Jeff can have his "homebrewed lift" thread back now... -cmc-

:eek: -cmc-

I quality intake setup like a K&N FIPK will add a little. Mated to a quality header and exhaust system will add a little more. But if you wanna make a 4.0L go fast... http://www.jeep4.0performance.4mg.com/ http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/ http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/stroker.html :D -cmc-

All I have ever ran in my 4.0L's. My XJ had 144K when I sold it. My ZJ has 109K. Prolly run the same thing in my 2.5L YJ when I get done. I am picky about my oil too... I run Valvoline MaxLife. Every third oil change I add a bottle of DuraLube http://www.duralube.com/itemInfo.cfm?itemID=57 Gotta get back in the habit of a bottle of Chevron Techron in the gas tank one tank before the oil change too. And I only run NAPA Gold, Purolator PureONE or WIX Premium filters. More info than you could ever want about oil filters is here: http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html And even MORE info than you could ever read about engine oils is here: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ -cmc-

Heh. Three different people, on three different boards have asked about being 110% sure we put the clutch disk in facing the right way. I am gonna :wall: repeatedly if that turns out to be our problem. -cmc-

[thread hijack] Tell me more... I have always run Valvoline and recently switched to the Valvoline MaxLife in my 4.0L's with 100K+ miles. But... in my last oil change used Pennzoil... PepBoys had it on special... a case was FREE after mail in rebate. :brows: I run either NAPA GOLD, Purolator PureONE or WIX Premium filters. [/th] -cmc-

Ummm... didn't know that. I was 100% certain... since it was clearly stamped "Flywheel Side". But now I am second guessing myself... :roll: Chit. I didn't know... always had flywheels turned when doing clutches... in my CJ... :wall: -cmc-

PICS: Yes, I know the flexplate/tone ring is backwards in the pic, but it was easier to show the relationship of the spacer this way. Sitting on my PartsAmerica invoice for the new clutch kit... -cmc-

First of all... a HUGE THANK YOU to Jeff for all of his help this weekend! And to Jerry for showing up twice just when we needed something! :cheers: :bowdown: :cheers: As for the description of the problem... well said Jeff... in fact I think I am gonna paraphrase that write up when I post up on a coupla other boards. Pics will be up in a few minutes... just gotta put them up on my Verizon site and link them. After doing a little more thinking last night... I can't seem to get the "spacer" out of my mind. The TOB is attached to the gearbox and rides back and forth on the input shaft inside the bellhousing. It has a finite amount of travel. With the flywheel/clutch disc/cover assembly in it's current position (directly to the crank, no "spacer") the TOB is travelling all the way to it's maximum distance before it even begins to compress the fingers on the cover and sandwich the clutch disc between the pressure plate and flywheel. Which is why it releases fine when the clutch pedal is depressed. But does not fully engage when the pedal is released, thus causing the clutch disc to spin, loosly contacting the PP and FW, resulting in the burnt clutch smell and light smoke :eek: instead of it being tighly gripped between them. It seems to me, if that "spacer" was installed between the crank and the flywheel, it would push the whole assembly .5" toward the gearbox. And the TOB would have to travel .5" LESS. Since the clutch disc is LESS than .5" thick, that would allow for a tight "sandwich" between the PP and the FW. BUT (and this is a big but) there is no mention of a "spacer" in the Haynes Manual, the FSM or Jerry's online parts list. Any help here would be GREATLY appreciated... we won't be tearing back in to the driveline for a coupla weeks, so we have time to over-think, over-research and over-engineer a solution. :roll: (And I'll make sure to stock up on BUD LIGHT instead of COORS LIGHT next time! :brows: ) -cmc-

I guess my biggest concern is figuring out how to get it home... It is +/- 60 miles of either hilly backroads or Interstate highway away. Dunno if I wanna try to drive it, and if I do, which way would be the better choice. Once it is home, I can hose it off and crawl under it to check for OBVIOUS things. :wall: -cmc-

Chuck......where 'bouts in Henrico are you? I work over in Sandston, live down in Chester :waving: Welcome aboard! Jeff Jeff... West End... Station 10... and I am the same "cmcolfax" from Richmond Jeepers! 8) -cmc-