A-V

and back to this project. Work has been eating away my motivation to pop into the garage, but things seem to be cooling down on the financial front so I've got some energy left to the pickup. Front bumper was REALLY starting to bother me so I installed a 1988 Cherokee Laredo Chrome REAR bumper to the front of the pickup. Had to shorten it about 3cm's (err, one inch?) on both ends and I fabricated the braces from the rear bumper's old braces to fit into the front (they are totally different but fit the bumper so I only had to customize one end...). Only thing is that the rear bumper of a Cherokee isn't curved like the front bumpers are so it's a bit 'bulky' in my opinion, but it is chromed and shiny and all of that so I guess it's just what the doctor prescribed. This weekend is a lost cause (motorcycle event down south + boozing involved) so I'll get back to the Manche on monday. Hopefully fixing the oil-pan issue and finally doing the rear brake cable swap. After that it's off to the inspection bureau... ;)

Okey, since my old taillights were pretty busted up I tried a few things to see what they'd look like. Clearcoating didn't work too well, I had done this in the past but the type of plastic used by Jeep doesn't seem to cope well with a clearcoat (so I wiped the clearcoat off before it dried). Then on to cleaning. Acetone which I tried first melts the plastic, so that was a bit too heavy for this job, but another thinner did the job nicely (i'll check that bottle on what it was). After the total cleaning I used a spacial transparent black clearcoat paint on the broken taillight, waited it to dry and spent a day thinking and looking at it if I should do the same to the new taillights. Decided againts it as it would be impossible to undo later (and finding new taillights isn't an option here), plus black taillights on a black truck sort of disappear.. so I just cleaned the NEW taillights with the thinner and added the 3M-stick-on-crome accents (they will now stick better than to the greasy/dirty surface). And on to putting them on (also added a few crome accents here and there). I really do like the way they turned out, it seems they add the right amount of custom touch that I wanted to accent the flat black paint in the rear as well.. ;) Too bad it wasn't sunny in the pics (and they're taken with my Nokia)... they do shine quite nicely now.. Parking brake cables are still uninstalled (doing that this week), and checked the CPS - is installed right = so it's broken, ordering a new one this week.

New taillights arrived yesterday! After a good cleaning they turned out to be nearly perfect (thanks Plumcrazy!) if slightly sunburned. Now I'm trying to decided whether to paint the borders black (or silver) and I may put in a few crome accents. I got a couple ideas on the crome accents so if I go that way I'll be sure to post em all with pics :) Has anyone here clearcoated their old taillights (to hide the sunburned 'matte' finish on a couple places). I've done it in the past and it has done the trick quite nicely, but I'm always looking for new ideas... ;)

Looks very promising. Keep up the good work mate!

nope :oops: Been too busy fixing up this and that (like my friend's 1964 rambler classic last weekend) that I haven't even looked at the truck. Actually I'm edging more and more into installing my spare AMC 290cid V8 into the Comanche, haven't found a transmission to boot so it hasn't happened yet. (plus that 290cid is in parts so I need to put it together first). But before I do anything else to the truck I gotta check that CPS and find a couple bolts for the oilpan that have gone missing sometime in the past (it's leaking oil now) AND get it inspected for traffic (I need to drive it to work, getting sick and tired of freeloading on my co-workers). btw. That CPS-sensor is 55euros (+15euros fixed postage rate) locally (=100USD atm) so I'm hoping it's just a bit loose (and not busted).

Thanks mate. At least now I know where to look... ;) Which years and from which engines does the CPS sensor fit from? Is it just 1986 or other years as well and does the 4.0L sensor work? (would make it easier to find the right part...)

Thanks for the positive feedback again :;) However I ran into some problems over the weekend (as I was gonna get it inspected TODAY.. of course..) The truck produced a very annoying problem over the weekend. I was testdriving it to a local Cruising event and while on my way to the gathering spot the truck stalled after some 7 miles or so. Since I hadn't had this happen before and the truck really just stalled on a straight road going some 35mph I though that the gas meter had gone and even though it was saying I had 1/4 tank of gas I phoned a few mates and they brought me 4 gallons worth. I filler her up and restarted. Turns and starts wonderfully, but doesn't run or even promise to do so. After some poking around and putting some gasoline into the throttlebody (the carb looking thingy) and still not running I took out a sparkplug and after inspection it looked just like it should I tested for spark and found none. So I started juggling the wires a bit, here and there while starting but nothing. I called up another mate to have me towed home to work on it and once he arrived the truck started fine and ran smoothly. No problems. I drove a mile and it stalled again and the same problem. starter works fine, no spark. So we started towing the car home, gave it a few tries to jumpstart it while towed - nothing. After some 15 minutes I turned the key and whoah, it started and ran fine again but after stopping by the side of the road it stalled again. So got it towed home, had a few drinks and started looking at it. Started fine, no problems, ran for a minute or two and stalled again. No matter how much I looked around couldn't find anything wrong / out-of-place. So my question is, what would cause this sort of a problem with the spark? The truck had a lot of work done on it but nothing lately and it's ran just fine until this weekend. Any ideas on what to check? Any known problems with 2.5L+renix which would cause symptons like this? Any help would be appreciated. Someone noted on earlier tech posts that it might be the crank position sensor...? Where is this on the 2.5L? Replaced it on my wife's 4.0L earlier but didn't see the sensor near/in the same place on the 2.5L...?

Yeah, the XJ had a lot more power and was better off the road, but my wife tends to keep on the road and she's got a 25km commute to work. 18MPG vs 32MPG. No real competition there with gasoline costing 3 times as much as it does in USA... And the Patriot has been a big positive suprise to me so far. Excellent daily driver as among her other choices were a new Mini Cooper, Seat Leon Cupra GT and a Chrysler PT Cruiser. Also testdrove everything from Kia Sportage to Honda CR-V's and the Patriot stood out quite well. It's a damn good Jeep. However I'm very much awaiting for monday when I'm having the Comanche inspected/registered. I tend to like older cars myself.. ;)

:D pretty nice welding job...

hmm.. there are ways, but all of them risk the paintjob that's under the stripes. it depends a lot on what kind of paint was used, how much was used and if the stripes were clearcoated after they were painted on. If it's just spraypaint job without clear coats it usually comes off with a mild thinner chemical quite easily. Then again it might be some industrial paint which won't come off until the paint underneath is gone... Pretty nasty situation in that case...

looking sharp :cheers:

New daily driver for my wife has arrived (replaced the 1989 Cherokee Limited). Spent several hours working on the Comanche and getting the missing parking brake cables today. Hoping to get it inspected by the end of this week.

No such luck with the dealership. Final comment was: "Sorry, we don't have it in stock and that part is no longer manufactured." (and I was asking for 1986-89 rear parking brake cables). Kinda funny isn't it since after my second round of calls (for those 1987 cables) I managed to find the cables new and in stock at that Jeep specialist. Cost is 150USD delivered to my home and they should be here tomorrow (I'm in a rush...). Expensive, but I'll know they'll fit right out of the package and they'll be here in time for the re-inspection. So problem solved, this time... :) Thanks mates!

Thanks for the info - I'll look for 1987+ rear cables too then (my front cable is OK). AND Thanks for the offer mates. I'll be sure to let you know if I can't find them locally for a reasonable price. All in all this whole issue is getting so annoying, becouse it's the last thing that's holding the truck in the garage. Problem with Jeep dealers in Finland (and I'm guessing other parts of Europe too) is that they always sell many different marques and have no stocks on Jeep parts whatsoever. So no JEEP-only dealerships. Like the local Jeep-dealer in my hometown, they sell Jeeps, but also Chrysler, Dodge, and get this - Citroen, and even better - Toyota is their main marque. :nuts: So in other words, no stocks on Jeep parts - means they have to special order everything from some central European warehouse (in Germany I think) which makes every part expensive (and it takes 2 weeks to get anything). This is why I first try to get parts from US-Car-stores which sell generic parts (sort of like JCWhitney's for American Cars if you know what I mean) and if I get lucky they find the part number and the part for a reasonable price and get it delivered in a few days. If not, next I go to a Jeep specific dealer who's prices are about twice what the generic dealers have (that 120 bucks), but he usually has the parts in stock and service is excellent. Delivery is also very fast, usually the next day. If he doesn't have it and can't get it (like these cables) I usually ask the Mopar-fanatic stores, which sometimes stock Jeep items and sell their stock for a reasonable price - fitment of the parts is somewhat risky as if the stock part doesn't fit, they usually order from the dealerships and get their cut and I end up paying the postage fees back and fourth (=more expensive than going straight to a dealership). If it's in stock it's a day or two, if not it's a week or two.:roll: So if none of the above have the part I need, THEN I'll go visit a dealership - which is the last thing I haven't done yet. If they fail, I'll let you know.

My 1986 model Comanche is in dire need of brake cables for the rear (after the split-up). The old ones are too corroded to work and I'm having problems finding new ones (actually it's the only thing stopping me from getting the car driveworthy & inspected). Problem is that Chrysler, Crown and other manufacturers do have a part number for 1986 rear cables but they only stock a part that's for 1987+. How different are these? I'd love to know before ordering the cables and paying $120 for them... Any chance it's the same cable for 1986 as well...?

here's the pic of that badge, it attaches with 2 plastic screws from the back. cost was some 5USD

I'm aware of this and I was hoping someone would point it out ;) My truck is one of those built in 1985 (I have final assembly date marked in the engine compartment with a white marker and all tags I've found are 1985, except for the VIN which is 1986. :D

And updates as well. Inspection went well, even though got rejected due to 3 things wrong with the car. Rightside hand brake wasn't working enough (propably cable rusted stuck), rear licenseplace light was missing (hadn't thought of it at all) and chassisnumber (VIN) wasn't stamped into the metal (just the normal tags from factory, and finnish car bureau tends to be really nasty on chassis numbers being 'stamped' not bolted on or printed - supposibly making it 'unremoveable or some other such nonsense). Good news is that the underbody is rust free, engine emissions are excellent, all joints are ok and brakes work fine (except that parking brake...). These were really the things I was worried about. Already got the chassis number stamped (a set of metal chisels and a hammer - used with permission of the car inspection bureau..heheeh) and the rear licenseplate light installed. Hoping to fix the parking brake cable today and getting it re-inspected so I can get my license plates... You're propably getting an idea here how strict the inspection system is... :nuts:

8) A fellow was selling them in AMC Euromeet Norway last month. He had just a few left and from what I gathered he'd purchased them from a vendor in Kenosha this summer. I really dig the badge and just had to get it for my AMC built Comanche :wrench: I'll get a closer pic of it for ya. It's a bit incorrect, due to the white part is missing from the amc emblem (it's black on this one), still it looks good.

I had the same problem and did just what JeepcoMJ commented. XJ-proportioning block up front and took out the 'extra' brake line and the old one leading to the rear and just routed a new brake line directly to the rear brake hose. Some experience on working with the brakes is required (bleeding and such) but it's not a tough job (assuming that the brake lines open up as intended). After this fix my rear brakes worked a whole lot better than they used to (no leakage). By the way, is this setup (weight valve thingy) available as a new part from somewhere?

So I'm not the only one who thought so too... nice to hear that :D

Updates! Managed to fix my problems with the truck's electrics. Biggest problem was that the flashers weren't working on the right side if you had lights on (but were working nicely without lights) and they seemed to jam every once in a while. Problem wasn't the flasher or anything else that was to be expected, but someone had jammed a one terminal bulb into a 2-terminal bulb holder in the rear lights (the middle one) and propably the same geezer had also routed a + wire for his hifi-stereo-system (with one mono speaker on the left side) from the flasher relay wire, meaning that it wasn't connecting 100% anymore due to the lack of radio at the moment. Incredible job, but he must be the same hero who after braking the oil pressure sending unit replaced it with chemical metal, a beer bottle cap, wood jabs and some airduct tape AND metal wire (the WHOLE SET! ...and the sending unit costing a total of 15 USD over here). Oh well, but the problem is now solved and I'm hopefully getting the car inspected for traffic today after lunch. Wife's Cherokee sold in 6 hours after leaving an ad on the web, so I gotta get this car running and fast, becouse the Patriot most likely isn't arriving this week and she's gotta drive something to work. She has already let me know that she isn't gonna be driving this truck to work once the Patriot arrives.. Oh well, more fun for me... :rotf: Anyone else had a similar comment from your better half? ;) btw, those clear corner lights were well worth the trouble 8) ps. center caps on the wheels are off, becouse the nuts were too long in the rear to hold the cap securely - fixing this issue today.

not only the biggest carshow, but also one that DESPISES america. i think that's the nicest things i've ever heard them say about an american vehicle besides the ford GT and... 1997??? looks more like a 92 or even earlier to me. i spy GM steering column which puts it earlier than 94ish definately Yeah, somewhere around 1992 would have been my guess too. I think the clip is done with the 'for a used car get this' idea, so the show itself might be 1997. On the subject of Top Gear. I don't think they really despise anything, it's just good entertainment. If _new_ American cars (not talking about old ones here) have been rubbish for a while it's a good thing that someone points out flaws and problems - so they'll improve and make better ones. And well, they did have some very nice things to say about the new 300C, Corvette and Viper as well as an older 70 challenger/charger (can't recall which) they had on the show. 8) I prefer my American cars to be just a bit older and I've stayed out of post 1990 cars to keep life easier. Well.. except that I ordered a Jeep Patriot Limited 2.4+CVH last week, so at least in my opinion the sense and quality of American cars has improved VERY much in the past year or two. And I do know tons of people (from Europe) whom would agree with me on this.

Howabout this? Got a Hornet taillight shipped from the States to Finland. UPS says 'not a problem, we can do it in 5 days' and they charge me about 80USD. Sounds fair to me since it's a part I cannot get locally. Two weeks later I get a call from UPS Service desk saying they have my package if I could collect it or arrange to have it shipped. Being a bit suprised as I thought I already arranged to have it shipped 2 weeks ago.. .So I ask them where can I claim it. 'From your local office'. I ask where the package is. 'Right here in Atlanta, GA'. After some heated words they tell me that the package has indeed visited my front door (here in Finland, Europe), but since there was nobody home at the time it was sent back to the originating office. UPS rocks... :bowdown: After a few calls and a week later it was shipped free of charge to my front door, this time I told them to leave it outside if nobody's home... Before this episode I always thought that I unreached they'd try again later, or maybe even leave a note or something before shipping it back to where it came from...