opsled

ahhh, well you know that there is a nice red barn that could be used :brows: He can't work on them there either cuz thats where he's gona be sleepin soon. :chillin: :brows: :chillin: pops

213,290 on the old smoker. The old dog's a little week in the knees but still gets off the porch and goes to work every day. Bought it non running for $200 at 106,000 and had to put in another $500 to get her back on the job. I've had to add another $1000 or so over the years to keep her going but to get over 100,000 miles out of a truck that gets an average of 28 to 30 mpg with less than a $2000 investment is fine with me. It's not much to look at and some like to laugh at the old POS but it don't bother me. Many will spend more on their truck in one month on payments, fuel and insurance than I spend in a year. They can laugh all they want. It does draw some attention when its sitting still and running. I've had to open the hood MANY times for people that want to see what's making all that noise. opsled

hey old man, I told ya you could take the 3800 while I build the diesel. :brows: even offered a trade... OLD???? Keep Talkin dead man. :chillin: :brows: :chillin: At least I've lived long enough for someone to call me OLD!! If you're lucky it might happen to you someday. Trade for the smoker?? I don't know if you could handle all that power and the chicks it draws. :laughin: You could probably keep these guys buisy readin the "Smoker Rebuild" thread for a couple of years though. "Old Man" opsled Damn it!! I dropped my cane!!

x2 on the :nuts: x3 on the :nuts: :cheers: X10 on the :nuts: If he keeps practicin he might get good enough for me to let him redo my smoker someday. :chillin: opsled X10 on the

Your steering stabilizer shock may be to long, bent or damaged internally. If it is it could bottom before you reach full right turn. Check it out because it could be something that simple. Good Luck, opsled

That may be a Jeep but it sure ain't no pickup and unless they can do better than the Liberty diesel on milage they won't sell many. I just put 320 miles on the old 86 Renault Comanche with 210,000 miles on it this weekend on one trip and it took exactly 9 gallons of fuel to fill it up afterwords. It's got 4.10 gears and factory tires so it runs about 2800 rpm at 55mph so it is not geared for milage. It has a small crack in one of the precombustion chambers so I have to keep the boost gauge down at about 5psi or less to keep the coolant in it. When it was right and I could run the boost up at 10 psi or more it was more efficient and I have gotten as high as 38mpg in the past. With modern diesel technology there is no reason a Comanche sized pickup couldn't get 40+mpg if they would just build one. They are available in Europe, South America and I'm sure many other places but they just can't seem to find a way to give people in ths country a decent small pickup that will get good milage. If Chrysler or whoever owns Jeep now doesn't quit messing around with it they will be having problems soon. opsled

It's probably not the deal of the century but 60,000 mile Comanches are rare. These old trucks are holding their value well unlike many other vehicles out there so at $4000 you won't be losing much if you ever decide to sell it. You could spend $40,000 for a new truck put 1000 miles on it and it will lose more in value than that Jeep will cost. I say if you have the money and want the truck buy it. There are worse ways to spend 4 grand and this one you will probably enjoy. opsled

Thats it??? Get off your horse and learn to spell? How about "opsled you're wrong it doesn't work the way. It works like this." or "well maby you have had good luck with them but I ship alot of things too and I have had the opposite experiance". No I guess not. I get "get off your high horse" and "at least get the spelling right" O.K. :USAflag: :USAflag: AMERICAN!!!!!!!!!!!!! Happy???? Maby I should look back through all your posts and do a spell check. As far as this horse I'm on. I will ride it untill someone can prove to me I'm WRONG. If my statments were wrong lets hear why but if you expect me to get off my horse just because YOU TELL ME TO I think it is you that is riding a little high on his horse. This thread started as an undeserved, undocumented BASH on a company that may not be perfect and could probably be criticized at times. But coments like RETARDED and SUCKING THE BROWN HOLE were not mine. If you are going to used those words to describe someone or something you better have the facts to back it up because guys like me will call you on them. Bottom line is if you guys are right back it up with facts and I will agree with you. If I'm wrong prove it and I will agree with you. But if all you have is BS and an empty basket the only thing you will prove is where you are lacking. By the way I hate horses and have no ligitimate reason for it. opsled

Shortening, lenghtening or retubing driveshafts, PTO shafts, axles, axle tubes, etc is not hard or complicated work and you don't have to be an aircraft certified welder to get it done. I've done quite a few in my day and if you are working on a tractor, mud truck, POS beater vehicle or something like that alot of this stuff isn't that critical but if you want it to go down the freeway at speed without vibrations or your talking about something that is going to be running under severe loads you need to have it right. The quality of the job is based on the needs of the application. opsled

still waitin for rear some end pics :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:

Dam Straight, I'm sorry I sound like a jack but I hear the same thing over and over again. I just shipped $500 worth of Mod Yamaha snowmobile parts to Sweden this morning that would have cost over $2000 for the guy to duplicate himself (if he could even get them). Shipping via USPS Prority Mail Air International was $102 for a box the was 17"X14"X11" and weighed 25lbs. He will have his parts in 6-10 days. It's a major pain to box an item like that so you are assured that it get there in one piece along with the B.S. customs forms I have to sign as true. The guy complained about the cost of shipping (here we go again) and I had to send it as a gift with a value of $40 so he doesn't have to pay import duties and HIS!!! country's 30% TAX!!!!! I don't mind at all doing these things for people to help them out but I sure as HELL won't listen to them bashing an AMIRICAN company that is trying to deal with THIER country's crap and service them. Canada and Mexico have been sleeping next to the biggest dog in the yard for over 200 years and have NOT had to bust a knuckle to protect themselves for over a century because of it. Any problems or issues they may have with the US or it's companies are completely self imposed and they should step back and realize that FACT. Lord knows we are far from perfect but if you look around and see what the rest of the world has to deal with we have it made in the shade and it's because we WON'T have it any other way. And nine + times out of ten people that have problems with shipping (no matter who the carrier or the country) are having them because they don't do the paperwork right. PERIOD END OF STORY :USAflag: :USAflag: :USAflag: :USAflag: :USAflag: opsled

Shipping "out of country" is a pain no matter who you use. I use UPS for almost everything I ship within the continental US except for small items then I use USPS. UPS is much easier to use, faster, usually cheaper than USPS and tracking and insurance are included. I have never had a problem with them. Every time this subject comes up the first thing that happens is a bunch of Canadians start crying about brokerage fees, customs fees, value taxes ect and start bashing UPS. I'M SICK OF IT. When you live in the US you don't have ANY!! of these charges. THAT SHOULD TELL YOU SOMETHING. ALL these charges are directly attributed to YOUR GOVERNMENT!!!!!!!!!!!! and their B.S. rules. I have Canadians ask me all the time to falsify customs documents and mark the item as a "gift" so they don't have to pay tax on it but then want it insured for it's full value. I won't do it!! and they get mad at me?? If somthing goes wrong it will be the shippers @$$ (ME) that is in trouble. I got a Canadian Postal Money Order from a customer in Canada that my bank had to send through their collection process to get the funds. It took three weeks and cost me a $20 collections fee. A CANADIAN POSTAL CHECK has to be sent to collection???? AND UPS is screwed up????? There is no doubt you guys are getting hosed with all these fees and taxes but it is not the fault of anyone but YOUR GOVERNMENT. If you don't like it quit using them or don't buy anything from the US. If you want to change things go talk to your government but quit blaming others for your problems. opsled

One friend said try fastening a stainless steel hose clamp around each end of the driveshaft just to see if things change, and attempt to do a redneck balance by moving them in or out. Don't know about that. But many thanks for your words of wisdom, and I feel like I'm finally zeroing in on the problem. Thats a good idea (wish I would have thought of it years ago). Getting it to balance that way probably won't happen but if putting a few clamps on the shaft changes your vibration it would be an indicator that you are on the right track. opsled

EXACTLY!!! Listen to him and TRE's will be EASY!!! Works every time if done right. Pickle forks and TRE pullers are a waste of time and money. You can knock out 10 tie rods with a hammer to every 1 you do with a fork or puller. If you can't get a good swing with a hammer use an air chissel with a blunt end on it. opsled

O.K. Unless I missed something in your desrciption of the problem I think you are getting dragged down to many different roads. You said this is a vibration that comes in and then goes away with changing speeds. You didn't mention any handling issues while this is going on so I will assume they are not there. If this is a vibration with no handling issues to go along with it you can eliminate any steering, ball joint, suspension problems. Tires can cause very bad vibrations but a bad tire CAN'T be balanced. You have balanced your tires and moved them from front to back with no change in the vibration. You have eliminated tires as the problem. You did change gears and that would have been my first guess except you said the problem was there before you changed gears and is now just more pronounced. So I don't think your gear change is the culprit but you are getting close because what you did had an effect on the vibration. Wheel bearings can cause vibrations but they are usually constant and don't go away with changes in speeds. They may get better or worse with slower or faster speeds but they don't go away. Front wheel bearing problems will also cause handling issues which you didn't mention so I would eliminate them. You didn't say that this problem started after a spring change or anything else. You said it just started recently and and has been getting worse. You say you have some slop at the slip yoke in the tail shaft of the trans. You may have an issue in the tail shaft but they all have a little slop so what you have may be normal. A drive shaft is a hollow tube that WILL amplify even the slightest imbalance. Just taking one out and putting it back in can cause one with a problem to start acting up. They are the only thing that I have seen that will cause what you are describing. Alot of the time it is pinion angle or trans/diff problems that are the culprit and the shaft is amplifying them but you didn't change any of these before the problem started. I have had this identical problem on a Chevy G-van. I had maintained this vehicle since day 1 and it had over 300,000 miles on it with no drive shaft issues. I had put in a new engine, trans, complete rebuild of the front suspension, new rear axle, tires, brakes ect. It all of a sudden started with a vibration that came in a 60mph and would leave at 70mph. I had been over absolutly everything on this truck and the shaft had brand new joints. I finally took the shaft in and had it spun and it was bent. It was very slight but enough to cause the problem. The guy who retubed it said it was probably bent from the factory and that it is a common thing for him to see. He said they are balanced when new but every time you take it out, change a joint and put it back in you are changing it's original balance which can cause them to start acting up. I could not make this truck vibrate on the stand but it was very pronounced on the road. The shaft was retubed and balanced and the problem was solved. My 86 Comanche diesel also had a vibration similar to what you described. It's problem was a worn yoke on the rear diff. One of the little ears in the yoke that hold the U joint centered was worn and allowing the shaft to off center itself about 1/16" from the pinion centerline. The shaft was orbiting ever so slightly around that centerline and causing the vibration. Pull the shaft and have it spun by a drive shaft shop to check for balance and straightness. That is the only way to eliminate the drivshaft as the problem. Make sure your U joint sits snugly and centered in your yoke. If you still have problems after that you should look into the tail shaft on you trans. I have been bending wrenches for many years on everything from 1150CI Cummings diesels in trucks to weedeaters and have seen alot of weird stuff. Oddball problems like yours need to be solved with reason and the process of elimination. opsled

Vibrations that come in and go out repetedly at the same speeds or conditions are normally drive train related and the most common are drive shaft or U joint issues. Engine, transmission and rear end issues are usually more constant but can increase or go away under acceleration or decelleration. Drive shaft issues tend to do more as you describe and come in at a certian speed then go away again at a higher speed. Check your U joints in the drive shaft REAL good. you may have 1 froze or partially froze joint that will cause what you are describing. Make sure that the rear jount is perfectly centered in the axle yoke. I have seen where the yoke has worn and can allow the drive shaft to "off center" it self from the pinion centerline and cause the exact issue you are describing. If you think that these things are good take your drive shaft to a drive shaft shop and have them spin it to check for balance and straightness. Even though you may think your drive shaft is perfect there are many things that can cause them to go out of balance. Balance weights can fall off, internal rust on the shaft can come loose and cause an inbalance, some shafts were never straight from the factory and were corrected with balancing and every time you change a U joint you are effecting it's problems. I have been down this road many times and the driveshaft or U joints are usually the culprit. Good Luck, opsled (Lord and mentor of JeepcoMJ) :brows: :brows:

Huh, kinda dissapointed, after all that waitin around I figured you would at least have some pics of that chick's rearend after it's all fixed up. Now that would be worth seein. :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: