"Small Lift"options... A discussion of the future

[SuperWade2]

As soon as I get my engine swap rolling and finished (something upcoming very possibly), the next big thing that I'm thinking about is Lift/tires...I don't want to go huge (or huge $$$) and I don't want a "home-made" type setup...I'd like to clear 31"s (I assume 31x10.5?) without worrying about rubbing. What are my options out there for this type of setup?

 

I know the 3.07's in the D30/D44 I have will be a problem but I drove around town in my TJ on 33's for a while with 3.07's and it was "bearable" until I had my D44 swapped in and 4.56's installed Front/Rear. The one off road trip on 3.07's and 33's was an eye opener (in a bad way) and sure helped push me to accelerate the D44/Gear swap.

 

Because my TJ is still going to my by "regular", main, off-road rig since I've spent so much $$$ to get it where it is, the off road in the MJ will be "mild", and leave the "hardcore" stuff to the TJ.

 

"Someday" if I swap out the D30/D44 (4.56/ARB's, etc) out of my TJ for D60's or whatever, there is always the possibilty that I might be able to use some of the "innards" of those in my MJ. (Since I have a stock D30/D44 already).

 

If there are any TJ guys out there, here is my TJ Setup, more or less current...I think I'm going to get the ORO Swayloc for myself for Fathers/B-Day... :D

 

1999 TJ Sport 4.0L (3 Spd Auto) Forest Green

Solid Axle HD D44 Rear (4.56/ARB) | AlloyUSA Grande30/30 (4.56/ARB) Front

RE 4.5" Tri-Link Long Arm | 33x12.5 MT MTZ's | Teralow 4:1 / 2Lo | SYE/CV

Currie HD Steering | AtoZ Rockers | Kilby Gas Tank Skid | Kilby Steering Box Skid

Jeep Medic Engine Skid | Hanson 60" Front Bumper | Rear Hanson with Square Tire Carrier |

Superwinch EPi 9.0 | 1" PA BL | M.O.R.E MML | sPOD / The SOURCE | Rockhard4x4 Ultimate Sports Cage

[Eagle]

As soon as I get my engine swap rolling and finished (something upcoming very possibly), the next big thing that I'm thinking about is Lift/tires...I don't want to go huge (or huge $$$) and I don't want a "home-made" type setup...I'd like to clear 31"s (I assume 31x10.5?) without worrying about rubbing. What are my options out there for this type of setup?

You can run 31s on an MJ with no lift, if you stay with stock Jeep rims. The tires WILL rub the lower control arms when the steering wheel is cranked all the way over toward full lock. BUT ... all the lift in the world will NOT correct that problem, because the control arms are still going to be pretty much in the same place. The two obvious solutions are (1) aftermarket rims with less backspacing; or (2) replacing the straight MJ lower control arms with WJ LCAs that have a bend in them to clear the tires. Running wheels with less backspace means that when the suspension "stuffs" the tires will hit the bodywork rather than tucking inside as they do with the stock rims. Therefore, the most elegant solution is the WJ lower control arms.

[SuperWade2]

As soon as I get my engine swap rolling and finished (something upcoming very possibly), the next big thing that I'm thinking about is Lift/tires...I don't want to go huge (or huge $$$) and I don't want a "home-made" type setup...I'd like to clear 31"s (I assume 31x10.5?) without worrying about rubbing. What are my options out there for this type of setup?

You can run 31s on an MJ with no lift, if you stay with stock Jeep rims. The tires WILL rub the lower control arms when the steering wheel is cranked all the way over toward full lock. BUT ... all the lift in the world will NOT correct that problem, because the control arms are still going to be pretty much in the same place. The two obvious solutions are (1) aftermarket rims with less backspacing; or (2) replacing the straight MJ lower control arms with WJ LCAs that have a bend in them to clear the tires. Running wheels with less backspace means that when the suspension "stuffs" the tires will hit the bodywork rather than tucking inside as they do with the stock rims. Therefore, the most elegant solution is the WJ lower control arms.

 

I have EVERY intention of keeping the 15x8 Gambler Rims (5.25" BS if memory serves me correctly) that I am running now with whatever tire I upgrade too, and I do like the looks of a "small" lift...3-4" or whatever looks "nice" with 31's, but also functional when I take it off road...

[pingpong]

Go with a 2" BB and bump stop it properly. I agree with eagle.. unless you change your rims, you are going to need to change your LCA's so they don't rub, or adjust your steering stops out, and decrease your turning radias

 

I found a pic of my old 89 XJ with 31's.. all it had was a MJ shackle, and a new rubber isolator

 

[Eagle]

My '88 had a 4" lift when I bought it, and I hated it. I removed it and swapped the parts to a guy up-state for some stuff off a wrecked Comanche. A 4" lift is just high enough to be a nuisance and not high enough to be effective.

 

If you absolutely must lift, look for about a 2" budget boost. You can use 1-3/4" coil spacers in the front, and a Rancho full-length AAL in the rear. I would get the WJ lower control arms, and I believe Pete did a write-up on the install (they require minor modification to fit an XJ or MJ).

[SuperWade2]

My '88 had a 4" lift when I bought it, and I hated it. I removed it and swapped the parts to a guy up-state for some stuff off a wrecked Comanche. A 4" lift is just high enough to be a nuisance and not high enough to be effective.

 

If you absolutely must lift, look for about a 2" budget boost. You can use 1-3/4" coil spacers in the front, and a Rancho full-length AAL in the rear. I would get the WJ lower control arms, and I believe Pete did a write-up on the install (they require minor modification to fit an XJ or MJ).

 

Would the 2" budget boost spacers that I took of my TJ work? Rubicon Express... I assume this would also entail getting longer shocks (since I just replaced all 4 with OE Height Monroe ones..)

 

Can you get the WJ Lowers, or so I just need to scour the Junk Yard (although never seen a WJ in any of the yards near me)

 

I REALLY like the look that BLHTAZ has going with his (3.5" RE from his Sig) and would eventually like to emulate that 'size' of lift/tire setup...

[BLHTAZ]

The set up I have is perfect for what I wanted. It puts the truck at just the right height to get in & out of without climbing or crouching and it clears the 31's with no rubbing anywhere. I looked at it yesterday when I was cutting the fenders & flares as I had the wheels turned as fars as I could to keep them out of the way and I did notice that there was not much room in the rear of the wheel well so a tire bigger than 31 would not be a good thing...although possible if you wanted to deal with a little rubbing.

[chicofuentes0224]

Go with a 2" BB and bump stop it properly. I agree with eagle.. unless you change your rims, you are going to need to change your LCA's so they don't rub, or adjust your steering stops out, and decrease your turning radias

 

I found a pic of my old 89 XJ with 31's.. all it had was a MJ shackle, and a new rubber isolator

 

 

Pinpong, how do you bumpstop it properly? Can you buy a longer bumpstop. My tires stick out past the fenders and like Eagle said hit bodywork, instead of tucking in. How can I get that to stop keeping the tires and wheels I run now?

[Motion Offroad]

In our opinion for 31" tires you want to keep it right around 3-3.5" of lift max. You can flex the tires out good with a quality lift at this height, but still keep your COG down on the trails.

 

Some thoughts based on a 3" lift...

 

Adjustable Trackbar - In our opinion anything over 2" of lift on a XJ/MJ should use an adjustable tracbar. The factory one just is not long enough. Trackbar drop brackets are justk asking for issues as well. An adjustable trackbar keeps your axle centered under your rig, and at 3" of lift it is noticeable that your axle is not centered anymore. Plus if you ran with the stock tracbar it can (and probably will) wear your tires funny over time. Trackbars are much cheaper than a new set of tires.

 

Coils vs. Spacers - A debatable topic. In our opinion anything over 1.5" of spacer is a "no-no". I'd venture to say that in my opinion the only reason spacers should be ran is to level out a lift, or for more lift after a heavy duty aftermarket bumper and/or winch. Coils are cheap once again in the 3" range.

 

Lower Control Arms - Once again a debatable topic in the 3" lift range. At 3"-4" of lift your lower control arms should be at least 16" long to keep the axle centered in the wheel well. That's at least 1" longer than stock. Our 3" kit includes adjustable lower control arms. Why adjustable? Many guys down the road go larger and with adjustable you don't have to buy new LCA's when/if you do go larger.

 

Rear Leafs vs. Add A Leafs (AAL's) - Depends on the condition of your factory packs and if your going to be offroading it or using it as a truck to haul/carry things. AAL's make your leaf packs sag faster, and throwing a miss-matched leaf with more/less arch into a factory pack typically makes the ride suffer greatly. We feel new leafs are the best route; thus why our kit comes with them.

 

Swaybar Disco's - EVERY Jeep driven on the road should have their swaybar connected. Driving your jeep offroad you'll get better flex with your swaybar disco'd. I won't school you on these; as it sounds like you already know based on your specs on your TJ.

 

Bumpstops - XJ front bumpstops work on the MJ. The rear is a bit more tricky and we've got a trick setup for the MJ coming on the market in the very near future. Bumpstops are important as they limit the flex and provent your springs/leafs from over flexing and wearing them out sooner. Also you typically get more flex when you hit your bumpstop as it forces the other side of the axle down. Typically not as important with a 3" lift as most tires ran with 3" lifts are 31x10.5's and they stuff into the fender well's much nicer than larger/wider tires do.

 

Just go with quality products and you'll be fine. Many vendors/manufactures think that the XJ and MJ are the same and will try to sell you an XJ lift kit. Typically this leads to poor ride quality with miss-matched spring rates and using parts that shouldn't ever of been on a MJ to begin with.

 

With all that being said, remember that we can build our 3", 4.5", or even 6.5" MJ lift kits to your exact specs based on what you do/don't want. Also we kinda have a habit of taking a few bucks off orders for ComancheClub members. 8)

[SuperWade2]

Thanks for the Reply Motion! I was looking at your kit before, and it looks like a fairly "complete" one-stop-shop setup!

[Eagle]

Would the 2" budget boost spacers that I took of my TJ work? Rubicon Express... I assume this would also entail getting longer shocks (since I just replaced all 4 with OE Height Monroe ones..)

 

Can you get the WJ Lowers, or so I just need to scour the Junk Yard (although never seen a WJ in any of the yards near me)

 

I REALLY like the look that BLHTAZ has going with his (3.5" RE from his Sig) and would eventually like to emulate that 'size' of lift/tire setup...

Yes, for the fron the TJ coil spacers are exactly the same as XJ/MJ/ZJ coil spacers. You can also run your original shocks with a 1-3/4" boost, unless your shocks are the SensaTrack model. If they are, the pistol will be riding in the area of the bore that's not grooved, and when the suspension compresses the pistol will drop into the grooved portion. That will make for a rather strange ride.

 

However, there are shock extenders that can be used that will keep the shocks in the normal operating range. You just need to be sure to extend the bump stops so you don't "bottom out" the shocks if the suspension gets fully compressed.

 

 

These are sold under the Lakewood brand, but I think Mr. Gasket probably has them, as well.

 

The rear shocks have an eye and grommet on both ends, and I don't know of any good way to extend those. The Rancho AAL is only supposed to raise the back on an MJ an inch and a half. The stock shocks might still work okay since they are a longer shock than the front.

[pingpong]

Go with a 2" BB and bump stop it properly. I agree with eagle.. unless you change your rims, you are going to need to change your LCA's so they don't rub, or adjust your steering stops out, and decrease your turning radias

 

I found a pic of my old 89 XJ with 31's.. all it had was a MJ shackle, and a new rubber isolator

 

 

Pinpong, how do you bumpstop it properly? Can you buy a longer bumpstop. My tires stick out past the fenders and like Eagle said hit bodywork, instead of tucking in. How can I get that to stop keeping the tires and wheels I run now?

 

 

What I did up front was replace the rubber bump stop with an after market one, then went and bought Ice Hockey pucks and all thread. Then I force flexed the front and added pucks. Now JKS offers and adjustable bump stop setup. For the rear pretty much the same, but they sell different hieght bump stops.

 

The steering stops are on the the back of the knuckle, and bascially you adjust them out some... you can't twist them out probrably more then a 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch, but that will limit your steering greatly

 

 

If you are hitting body parts now... adjusting your steering stops, or added bump stops will not fix that. Only more lift, and trimming can fix that