maddzz1 Posted March 21, 2008 Share Posted March 21, 2008 What would cause this. It only seems to happen when I have been driving and my truck is warm. When I pull in to stop the oil light will flicker on. I am not stopping short or on a hill. I check my oil and it is full. Am I somehow losing some oil pressure when the oil warms up and thins out? I will also replacing my fram oil filter after reading the other thread yesterday for a napa gold (made by wix). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted March 21, 2008 Share Posted March 21, 2008 I will almost guarantee the problem will disappear when the FRAM filter disappears. However -- yes, of course your oil pressure goes down when the oil gets hotter and thinner. And the pressure goes down at idle because the oil pump isn't spinning as fast. What type and weight of oil are you using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddzz1 Posted March 21, 2008 Author Share Posted March 21, 2008 I will almost guarantee the problem will disappear when the FRAM filter disappears. However -- yes, of course your oil pressure goes down when the oil gets hotter and thinner. And the pressure goes down at idle because the oil pump isn't spinning as fast. What type and weight of oil are you using? I am using 10W30 quaker state, but after seeing you post "parafin" in another thread I did a search and think I will change that to a different type when I change the filter. What weight and type should I use? 89 4.0 140,000 What do you think about adding a quart of something like slick 50? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88XJSport Posted March 21, 2008 Share Posted March 21, 2008 I would check the pol pressure with a mechanical gauge. The factory senders I don't trust 100%. Nice avatar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddzz1 Posted March 21, 2008 Author Share Posted March 21, 2008 I would check the pol pressure with a mechanical gauge. The factory senders I don't trust 100%. Nice avatar. How would I do that? I need to replace my leaking rear main when the temp goes up a little ( I have never done this before and a little worried about scatcing the crank), should I change the oil pump while I have the pan off since it is probally the original pump? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy in Maine Posted March 21, 2008 Share Posted March 21, 2008 I am not sure at what pressure the factory sending unit light comes on or what the thread pitch is but something like this might work to confirm what the pump is really putting out. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddzz1 Posted March 21, 2008 Author Share Posted March 21, 2008 I am not sure at what pressure the factory sending unit light comes on or what the thread pitch is but something like this might work to confirm what the pump is really putting out. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku Thanks. I plan to do a cluster swap this summer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted March 21, 2008 Share Posted March 21, 2008 I will almost guarantee the problem will disappear when the FRAM filter disappears. x2 That's what happened to me. The filter failed and the oil pressure gauge dropped to 0 if I wasn't revving the engine above 1500. It became a "dance of the pedals" at every stop for the next 8 hours. I was convinced that my pump was failing and when I got to the Badlands I threw in some heavier weight oil. That helped a bit. When I got home I learned of the issues with fram and swapped it out. I immediately got all the pressure back. :mad: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy in Maine Posted March 21, 2008 Share Posted March 21, 2008 I personally do not use Fram filters but I have to ask.... These Fram guys have been building all sorts of filters for a long time now. They must know how to do it better and at least as well as WIX/Mahle/and the other guys. I am sure they also must have some sort of QA/QC department there and can read what is written about them. Is it a money thing so that they can sell them for a couple of bucks cheaper at Walmart? Why do they even bother make crap when they could make a quality part that could sell for more money? They would probably sell more of them if they were any good. I guess I just don't understand it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddzz1 Posted March 21, 2008 Author Share Posted March 21, 2008 From what I read fram hasnt actually made filters in years. They have another company make them for them that also produces alot of other brands too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanchedude Posted March 22, 2008 Share Posted March 22, 2008 I am using 10W30 quaker state, but after seeing you post "parafin" in another thread I did a search and think I will change that to a different type when I change the filter. What weight and type should I use? 89 4.0 140,000 "parafin" if this is in reference to engine oil it was misunderstood by the poster. the term is "paraffinic" and is a indicates the products little or no afinity to change ,in other words its viscosity stable. Myth : Paraffinic Oils Oils from paraffin-based crude are loaded with wax and create engine sludge, varnish and/or engine deposits. Fact: "There are two basic types of crude oil, naphthenic and paraffinic. Most conventional engine lubricating oils today are made from paraffinic crude oil. Paraffinic crude oil is recognized for its ability to resist thinning and thickening with temperature, as well as its lubricating properties and resistance to oxidation (sludge-forming tendencies). In the refining process, the paraffinic crude oil is broken down into many different products. One of the products is wax, and others are gasoline, kerosene, lubricating oils, asphalt, etc. Virtually every oil company uses paraffinic base stocks in blending its conventional engine oil products." Many people believe the term paraffinic to be synonymous with wax. Some have the misconception that paraffinic oils will coat the engine with a wax film that can result in engine deposits. This is not true. The confusion exists because In lubricating oils, this wax is removed in a refining process called dewaxing. Wax is a premium product obtained from crude oil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted March 24, 2008 Share Posted March 24, 2008 Hey, comanchedude - I'll take care of my posts, you take care of yours. Quaker State oil is crap, and it does leave a gunky, varnish-like build-up inside the engine. If you want to believe that's not paraffin, it's your money and your engine. I won't let the stuff near anything I own. 30 years ago Quaker State was the only oil I ran if I couldn't find Amalie. The stuff they sell today is not at all like the stuff they sold 30 years ago. Back to the question of what to run: for an older, high-mileage engine, I think 10W30 is a bit light. I always ran 10W40 in mine, even when new. Around 200,000 miles I changed to 20W50. Then I switched to full synthetic and I've been running Castrol Syntec 5W50 (when I can find it) because the 5 weight when cold provides better start-up flow in cold weather. I'm not as worried about that in summer, so if I can't find 5W50 I'll run 20W50. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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