martywarner Posted March 9, 2008 Share Posted March 9, 2008 ok so here is the deal the heat on my 89 2wd 6cyl is not working the motor does not get that warm either the temp gauge goes to about 75 degrees celcius thats like 167 fahrenheit and thats loaded, empty, idle,wide open doesnt matter its gets a little warm but not really. any ideas would be helpful. also does any one have experience with the fibreglass fenders he sell for the manche do they fit well? i want to build a semi prerunner deal and like the looks of masscrawlers mj. i had a little incident with the ditch up north and need some front end beutification. and i bent the axle and had to replace it with one out of my spare truck. thanks marty :Canadaflag: this is the garage door in my garage -18 and snowing..nice just for fun this is what a turbo on my pete looks like when it lets go at 20,000 rpm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerocorey Posted March 9, 2008 Share Posted March 9, 2008 Try a coolant flush. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martywarner Posted March 9, 2008 Author Share Posted March 9, 2008 i didnt flush but i dropped the coolant and changed the t-stat had a hard time getting the air out not sure if it is all out or not nt the level stays the same and doesnt fluctuate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerocorey Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 T-stat won't affect the heater much. There's a bypass in the t-stat housing around the t-stat where the heater core takes its heat from. The idea is that coolant won't go to the radiator until the engine is up to temp but you won't have to wait for the t-stat to open to get heat in the cab while the truck warms up. I'm having a similar problem, but I don't know what temp I'm running at because I have idiot lights instead of gauges. I did a few good coolant flushes and my heat has gone from completely inoperative to sucking pretty bad. I need a new heater core. I'm gonna try bleeding the system a little more before I replace the core. Anyhow...my thoughts are that if your heater core is clogged it could stand to reason that other parts of your cooling system could also be clogged. Perhaps poor flow is causing problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martywarner Posted March 10, 2008 Author Share Posted March 10, 2008 ya it only blows heat through the ddefrost and dash vents and freezing cold to the floor when that is selected. i am kinda dissapointed my 87 4cyl made amazing heat. gonna just keep fiddleing with the damn thing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerocorey Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 If it's making heat in defrost and vent, but not in floor, then the heater core isn't the problem. The heater core doesn't care what level you select the heat to come out through, it just cares where you put the temperature lever. I don't know why it would blow heat everywhere but at the floor. I'd dig under the dash and see if something isn't assembled tightly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 Check the vac reservoir. It might be cracked from the impact with that ditch.. Its a globe looking thing in the right fender behind the bumper.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martywarner Posted March 10, 2008 Author Share Posted March 10, 2008 ya i thought tha i will look anyway but it did not blow hot before the mishap. on really cold days it makes just enough heat to keep the windshield clear but i still have to wear a touque and gloves and parka i guess i should tear into the dash and have a look see but i will check the vac cannister first thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerocorey Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 Also wouldn't be too worried about the vac can. If your vent doors are working properly then the can is hooked up and working fine. I find that my defroster is just a TINY bit warmer than my floor vents too. I attributed that to heat rising. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 My core was plugged with crap.. I flushed it and it still doesnt get hot.. I think I have air in the cooling system somewhere... or maybe I should use some drano. I read on here somewhere that someone used that to really clean the gunk out of the core.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerocorey Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 My core was plugged with crap.. I flushed it and it still doesnt get hot.. I think I have air in the cooling system somewhere... or maybe I should use some drano. I read on here somewhere that someone used that to really clean the gunk out of the core.. If you come up what that thread please post it up. I'll search too. I would REALLY like to avoid replacing my heater core if I can. I flushed mine but I know it's still not flowing like it should. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 <<>> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FxRacing282 Posted March 11, 2008 Share Posted March 11, 2008 its your t stat. there is only one solution if you motor won't heat up and the heat dosent work. your t stat is old and tired. they are cheap and easy to replace. i would not suggest getting one that will open wide at a tempature lower than "stock".and where from 190-210 is reasonable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted March 11, 2008 Share Posted March 11, 2008 And don't waste the money on a fail safe thermostat. It's a cheap gimmick and a bad design. I made that mistake once. I hit 210 degrees in the mountains the day after I put it in, and after that the engine wouldn't warm up. Took the sucker out and saw it was stuck open. They have hooks that grab the valve and prevent it from closing again if it ever reaches 210 degrees. Since a proper cooling system is designed to work within specs up to 245 to 260 degrees, that causes problems. Replaced the $12 piece of crap with a $3 standard one and no more problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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