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Water in Headlights? Just Replace, Used or OEM?


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Both of my Headlights seem to have an obscene amount of water and moisture under the lens. I suspect this is common, and I should probably just change out the light assemblies. Should I just post on the Classifieds Froum and get something used and hope they leak less than my stockers, or are OEM New replacements cheap enough that I should just go ahead and get ones... if the latter, any recommendations for Online shopping locations...

 

Thanks

Wade (SW2)

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It's a sealed beam headlight (assuming they're stock and not swapped for a lense/bulb combo), they cost from less than $10 to $25 each depending on the "brightness" at any parts store. Buy new ones.

 

Thanks,

 

99% sure they are stockers and not a combo... my selection of local AutoParts stores blow, but I will see what the local guys have... I looked @ Ebay and see em cheap but shipping cost 10x more than the part with those guys...

 

Wade

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Either buy quilaty right hand drive E-code lights or at least 6054HO lights.

 

The 6054HO (High Output) have 55 watt low beams instead of 35 watt ones and 65 watt high beams instead of 55 watt ones.

 

The E-codes lights are great if you get the right ones. You want a glass lens, a chrome like reflector and are not made in china... They have replaceable bulbs, get the 55w/100w white bulbs, don't buy blue lights. Blue lights suck compared to the same white bulb. The blue lights reflect off the water on wet roads instead of lighting the pavement.

 

Either way install a overlay harness with relays that are controlled by the headlight switch. Get power from the alternator with the proper gauge wires to the relays and to the headlights.

 

This will make a big difference because you lose about 1.5-2.5 volts at the headlights with the stock system.

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Either buy quilaty right hand drive E-code lights or at least 6054HO lights.

 

The 6054HO (High Output) have 55 watt low beams instead of 35 watt ones and 65 watt high beams instead of 55 watt ones.

 

The E-codes lights are great if you get the right ones. You want a glass lens, a chrome like reflector and are not made in china... They have replaceable bulbs, get the 55w/100w white bulbs, don't buy blue lights. Blue lights suck compared to the same white bulb. The blue lights reflect off the water on wet roads instead of lighting the pavement.

 

Either way install a overlay harness with relays that are controlled by the headlight switch. Get power from the alternator with the proper gauge wires to the relays and to the headlights.

 

This will make a big difference because you lose about 1.5-2.5 volts at the headlights with the stock system.

 

Where does one buy any of that stuff?

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Either buy quilaty right hand drive E-code lights or at least 6054HO lights.

 

The 6054HO (High Output) have 55 watt low beams instead of 35 watt ones and 65 watt high beams instead of 55 watt ones.

 

The E-codes lights are great if you get the right ones. You want a glass lens, a chrome like reflector and are not made in china... They have replaceable bulbs, get the 55w/100w white bulbs, don't buy blue lights. Blue lights suck compared to the same white bulb. The blue lights reflect off the water on wet roads instead of lighting the pavement.

 

Either way install a overlay harness with relays that are controlled by the headlight switch. Get power from the alternator with the proper gauge wires to the relays and to the headlights.

 

This will make a big difference because you lose about 1.5-2.5 volts at the headlights with the stock system.

 

X2. Here's how I did mine w. costs. Got the Hella 200mm H4 e-code glass lamp shells from Susquehanna Motor Sports ($34/ea). Then picked up from eBay four IPF 80w/60w H4 bulbs ($10 w. shipping, but you can used any wattage H4 bulb you want) and wired in a universal APC 4-lamp wiring harness w. relays (much cheaper than the 2-lamp, just cut off the extra two H4 sockets, $9 w. shipping) which fit my MJ perfectly. Then put in a separate fuse block mounted near the PDC on the right fender well and fused each headlight w. 20A fuses. Literally a night and day difference, and a highly recommended upgrade.

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Either buy quilaty right hand drive E-code lights or at least 6054HO lights.

 

The 6054HO (High Output) have 55 watt low beams instead of 35 watt ones and 65 watt high beams instead of 55 watt ones.

 

The E-codes lights are great if you get the right ones. You want a glass lens, a chrome like reflector and are not made in china... They have replaceable bulbs, get the 55w/100w white bulbs, don't buy blue lights. Blue lights suck compared to the same white bulb. The blue lights reflect off the water on wet roads instead of lighting the pavement.

 

Either way install a overlay harness with relays that are controlled by the headlight switch. Get power from the alternator with the proper gauge wires to the relays and to the headlights.

 

This will make a big difference because you lose about 1.5-2.5 volts at the headlights with the stock system.

 

X2. Here's how I did mine w. costs. Got the Hella 200mm H4 e-code glass lamp shells from Susquehanna Motor Sports ($34/ea). Then picked up from eBay four IPF 80w/60w H4 bulbs ($10 w. shipping, but you can used any wattage H4 bulb you want) and wired in a universal APC 4-lamp wiring harness w. relays (much cheaper than the 2-lamp, just cut off the extra two H4 sockets, $9 w. shipping) which fit my MJ perfectly. Then put in a separate fuse block mounted near the PDC on the right fender well and fused each headlight w. 20A fuses. Literally a night and day difference, and a highly recommended upgrade.

 

What he said. :chillin: I build my own harnesses and wiring. I haven't picked up my E-codes lights yet, I just have the 6054HO's.

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