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replacing a u-joint


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I had to swap in a new front driveshaft today, so here's some basic tech for anyone who’s never changed a U-joint. There’s a couple different ways of accomplishing it, and here’s one way…with a ball joint press kit (about $40). I bought it last year because I’m eventually going to change ball joints and axle end control arm bushings, but it works great for UJ’s too. I clamp it in a bench vise also.

 

Press kit:

 

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start by removing the clips that hold the bearing caps in place, using a pair of needle-nose pliers:

 

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after both clips are removed, mount the joint inside the press:

 

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press the joint thru the yoke, almost the whole way across, to push the opposite side cap out so you can remove it

 

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pull the bearing cap off, put the UJ back in the press in the other direction, and reverse the process to push the other cap out of the yoke

 

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one it’s pressed the other direction, pull that cap off and remove the joint

 

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to install the new UJ, make sure the zerk fitting is facing the direction of the shaft (if it is greasable). Remove the zerk now, so you can press the joint in fully. You’ll reinstall it later

 

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remove two bearing caps from opposite sides of the new UJ, put one cap squarely in the yoke and slip the cross inside

 

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press the bearing cap thru the yoke until it is pressed ¾ of the way through, and line up the cross

 

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check the needle bearings on the other cap to make sure they are all seated and none have fallen out of place, then install the cap inside the opposite side

 

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flip the yoke over in the press and press that cap inside the yoke until the joint is centered. If it gets hard to press, stop and loosen the press and check the needle bearing to make sure they are all still in place

 

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when it’s centered, install one of the clips in the yoke

 

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flip the yoke over and install the other clip on the opposite side. You might have to move the joint slightly from side to side in order to get both clips to seat inside the grooves. Make sure each clip is seated fully inside the grooves on both sides

 

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rotate the joint from side to side to ensure it moves freely. If it’s tight, tap the yoke shoulders all around with a hammer while rotating the joint to unload the pressure on the needle bearings. You can literally feel them loosening up

 

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reinstall the zerk, if applicable

 

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finished install, go drink a beer…..

 

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reinstall the driveshaft, and yer done!

 

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check the needle bearings on the other cap to make sure they are all seated and none have fallen out of place, then install the cap inside the opposite side

 

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I'd like to emphasize this step! I've had more than a few needle bearings fall flat onto the cap, and in my enraged state of fury I've crushed them into a million pieces. Most come with a little grease already in there (you can see in Jeff's pics) so they should stay in place. Just take it slow!

 

Nice write-up Jeff!

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thanks. A couple of the pics could have been better, but I didn't have a third hand to hold the camera with while I was working :D If the wife woulda been home, Id'a made her take the pics.....

 

Jeff

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check the needle bearings on the other cap to make sure they are all seated and none have fallen out of place, then install the cap inside the opposite side

 

 

I'd like to emphasize this step! I've had more than a few needle bearings fall flat onto the cap, and in my enraged state of fury I've crushed them into a million pieces. Most come with a little grease already in there (you can see in Jeff's pics) so they should stay in place. Just take it slow!

 

Nice write-up Jeff!

 

I'd like to DOUBLE emphasize that step. My first attempt at axleshaft u-joints would have gone MUCH smoother had i seen a write-up like this.

 

THANKS for a great write up.

 

another few tips:

 

autozone, advance auto and the likes will "rent" ball joint presses for 40 dollars, return the press to get your money back in full.

 

if the press gets tight and you can't get the joint out, (assuming the clips are out) tighten it down as much as possible (the factory joints on a 1989 truck can be tough ones ;) ) and then whack the press with a hammer, sometimes that and the press being tight will blast them out

 

:bowdown: good write-up!

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X2 on the hammer and socket.

 

Also, for those who don't know about it. Something should be said about the types of joints that the caps are held in with that darn molten plastic. My S-10 was that way. I've heard of people using a torch to melt the plastic out when they change the joints. I used a stationary hydraulic press out at the gas - plant my Dad works at. Reinstall of the joint was with the C-clips in the inside of the yokes to hold the new caps in place. That a pain.

 

Needless to say, I like the Jeep setups much better.

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