Dana 30 help & spartan locker talk

[TheMaddTitan13]

I'm sorry this is probably be alittle choppy, so bear with me please. FYI This was my first time doing almost all of this! 

 

have a couple topics I would like to discuss, 

1, I need help, I did the vac delete on my dana 30 front axle.  I removed the shim, plugged the lines, and sealed it up.

I also installed a spartan lunchbox locker and this runs my 2nd topic. (Ill continue this thought farther down the post.)

But my issue is when I removed the 3 part shaft I removed the shim. I wanted to re-do the seals since I was practical rebuilding the whole front end. Well originally the seals where on the typical place on driver and passenger side the seal was over, half way down the shaft where the vac system is. I originally tried to place the seals inside the diff like I've seen many times before(Videos and pictures) but I wasted 2 seals trying, so I went to my 2nd plan. I placed the seal in the original spot by the vac system. 

So it was leaking from the diff gasket from the start, but after assembly I ran it for 20/30 miles, drained the diff fluid and refilled(working the locker in some) but after 3 months it started leaking pretty steadily, is there any advice or did I pick the wrong seals for the system? Did I make a bad call with the vac deleat? (I got all new vac lines for my engine bay.)

 

 

 

2. Spartan locker I've seen alot partial info and experiences with them, most of my previous dive into it, was most people commented directly after install and never follwed up. So I would like to get alittle more into it for some guys interested in it! 

 

My experience,  

Install: pretty smooth, followed all directions and tolerances.

 

First mile,

it binded and unloaded so hard, i was trying to drive 1 mile down the road to this big rock parking lot. 

I stopped 3 times in that mile thinking my driveshaft exploded.

 

2-20miles, 

I drove around in figure 8s in the gravel lot in 4 low and 4high. Lots of binding and popping, I thought it was going to destroy my truck.

 

20-100 miles,

I had to replace the driver side hub bearing during break in because left turns jerked so damn bad. 

 

100 miles, 

Finnaly make it out to uwharrie for 3day weekend, I wheeled and wheeled hard as I could, stayed in 4high/low the whole weekend.

 

120+miles,

So pulling out of uwharrie I finnaly put it back in 2wd and there it was, she was quiet as can be. I get minor ratcheting in u turns, parking lots and just tighter turns in general. Only hear it when I turn left, no binding or unloading(unless you are in 4x4)

 

 

2000 miles later,

 

This thing is an animal! Front locker+ open rear= great performance, didn't really have to change how I drive, & it was rather cheap. 

 

So if you are on the fence about it, I hope my experience helps! Please share yalls experience, so others know what they are diving into, plus I'm curious to see some follow ups from some vets who's ran them for years!

 

 

 

 

 

Thankys everyone! I hope most of this made sense on paper lol. 

 

 

The super muddy picture is what triggered me putting some serious work into this truck. I got really stuck one night and started coming in my floor. So I tor out and patched thr floor and decided to go with a spartan locker and front end rebuild lol. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[PIKE]

SKF 11800  is the seal I used inside the differential housing.

[ghetdjc320]

     I never tried the Spartan but had the Aussie locker for some time in my YJ. It also did great. I agree that front locker is nice if you’re just doing one lunchbox style locker. The Aussie was pretty smooth though with no clicking or popping when not in 4wd. 
     As for the axle seal, did you swap in a single piece axle shaft? If so, the axle shaft is machined for the seal near the housing on the passenger side of the carrier. However, the CAD axles didn’t machine this spot for a seal. The seal referenced above should work but it is finicky getting it to sit in the bore properly. If you want a surefire way to seal it so it won’t leak again, use a seals-it economy axle seal. I can’t remember the exact size but basically the seals-it seal is a fat, self-aligning seal that greatly simplifies installation and provides a far more reliable seal than those dinky tin metal seals. I’ll see if I can find the one that fits the D30.

[ghetdjc320]

EAS25875 is the size I came up with. Just make sure your axle tube ID and axle shaft OD at the seal location is correct. https://sealsit.com/product/economy-axle-seal/
 

Seriously, last seals you’ll ever need to buy and way easier to install. Just make sure to use the proper sealant (mega black or “the right stuff”) and make sure the seal surface is nice and clean. No trying to tap in some little tin seal anymore. 

[TheMaddTitan13]

You might be a life saver! I'm not looking forward to breaking it all down again, but I am happy to hear a semi permanent fix is available! I tried for hours to get a seal to fit on either side on passenger. I used a really long pipe to tap in the driver then used a seal press to finish the seat & wasn't that bad. Thankyou! 

 

& I wanted to go with a powertrac locker, but last year I was ballin' on a budget lol.  & I'm either looking for a 8.8 to either put a air locker in or if I'm super lucky I can find some locking hub axles!