NHMJXJ Posted July 20 Share Posted July 20 I was running errands and jumping in and out.. Went to start the truck and there was resistance turning the key. Pulled it out, reinserted, gave the key and the steering wheel a jiggle. Still some resistance, but the key turned ... kind of freed up. The dash lit up like normal, but no one was home. I have a new battery and a relatively new starter. AAA came, tested the battery, banged on the starter. No purchase. He crossed the power to the solenoid and got me running so I could get home, but now that's the only way I can get it started. I suspect it's something to do with the ignition switch? Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strokermjcomanche Posted July 21 Share Posted July 21 Yeah the ignition switch might be bad inside not allowing everything to move freely. You should be able to check it before you purchase another switch that we don’t have to spend extra money for nothing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schardein Posted July 21 Share Posted July 21 Could be a problem with the ignition switch. Could be a problem with the linkage inside the column. Unless I was sure it was the linkage, I think I would take a look at the switch first. The title you wrote "ignition switch in column", isn't exactly how I would describe it, since the switch is bolted to the outside of the column tube, on top of the tube, behind the dash. They are kind of a pain to get to, but I would take it out, and inspect the switch. I would use a small screwdriver to move the switch and feel for anything stuck or not moving right. I would also carefully inspect the terminals in the switch, and the plastic connectors and terminals in the vehicle side wiring plugs for any burning, melting, or corrosion. While the ignition switch was removed, I'd turn the key through it's range of motion, and see if it still felt "wrong". Just a couple notes, I have had problems with the column in my CJ doing a similar thing. Part of the problem was the operating rod that goes from the key mechanism to the ignition switch was badly rusted, and would flex. This meant that it didn't give a full range of motion. This is probably not the case in a MJ, since the cab isn't open to the elements like the CJ. When I dug into the column, I found that in addition to the rod being rusted, the inside of the column was gummed up with old dried up grease mixed with years of dirt and dust. Cleaning everything and re-greasing it solved the issue. Reminder, if you replace the switch, they are different for a non-tilt and a tilt column. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NHMJXJ Posted July 22 Author Share Posted July 22 On 7/20/2024 at 8:15 PM, schardein said: you wrote "ignition switch in column", isn't exactly how I would describe it My meaning was, the switch you stick the key in. I was thinking I broke something mechanical because of the resistance I described when trying to turn the key to start he truck. First effort the key would not turn at all. After reinserting and jiggling the key and the wheel, it "released" and turned with ZERO resistance, as though I had snapped something (although I didn't hear anything like that). It's a tilt column, so thank you for the heads up about the difference. I tried changing the angle, but to no avail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schardein Posted July 22 Share Posted July 22 1 hour ago, NHMJXJ said: My meaning was, the switch you stick the key in. I was thinking I broke something mechanical because of the resistance I described when trying to turn the key to start he truck. First effort the key would not turn at all. After reinserting and jiggling the key and the wheel, it "released" and turned with ZERO resistance, as though I had snapped something (although I didn't hear anything like that). It's a tilt column, so thank you for the heads up about the difference. I tried changing the angle, but to no avail. I was trying to distinguish between the ignition switch, which is bolted to the top of the column, and the ignition lock cylinder, where the key inserts, which isn't a switch at all, but is sometimes mistaken for one. It's a little difficult to make that distinction and I probably didn't do a good job. I've thought about your issue some more, and have a suggestion for a simple test. Looking at the first picture, you can see the ignition switch, and the operating rod. That rod connects between the key cylinder and the ignition switch. If you can reach under the dash and feel for it. Then keeping a finger on it, turn the key, or have an assistant turn the key. If the rod moves, the problem is probably the ignition switch. If the rod doesn't move when the key is turned, the problem is inside the column. Don't confuse the ignition switch rod with the high/low beam rod, which is right next to it. If the problem is inside the column, it is likely the ignition switch actuator rack, see 2nd picture. This picture is of a non tilt, auto shift column, but the parts are similar to a tilt column. Hope that helps and let us know how it goes. I have a spare column in the shop, I could do a short video of turning the key and observing the rod movement. I could do that tomorrow if it would be helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now