Bleeding my brakes all at once?

[jtdesigns]

Well it's time for my brakes to be bled. I went to the hardware store and got about 30ft of 3/16 (I think) hose. The plan is just to zip tie the hose ends on all 4 open bleeder values, route them all back to the m/c, then just pump the pedal. It will be more of a cycle of fluid coming through the hose back to the m/c.

 

Although,,I'm unsure about the height value, and the prop value sending all the fluid to the rear bypassing the height value.

 

Does anyone have input on this before I start the bleeding?

 

I think it should work out, but who knows.

go or no go??

[HOrnbrod]

Well it's time for my brakes to be bled. I went to the hardware store and got about 30ft of 3/16 (I think) hose. The plan is just to zip tie the hose ends on all 4 open bleeder values, route them all back to the m/c, then just pump the pedal. It will be more of a cycle of fluid coming through the hose back to the m/c.

 

Although,,I'm unsure about the height value, and the prop value sending all the fluid to the rear bypassing the height value.

 

Does anyone have input on this before I start the bleeding?

 

I think it should work out, but who knows.

go or no go??

 

I've never tried it, but wouldn't recommend it. You're just recycling possible contaminated fluid back into the system. I like to gravity bleed the system for a couple of hours first by opening all four valves that are connected via plastic tubing into a jar w. about 1/2" of brake fluid in it; the plastic tubing below the level of the fluid. This lets the bulk of the air our of the system w/o allowing any more in as long as you top off the m/c periodically. Then shut all the bleed valves and bleed the conventional way starting at the RR, LR, RF, then LF wheels. I still have my load leveling installed, and this works for me. :D

[Oizarod115]

or... you could take the top off the master, open all the bleeders and let them run for a while, eventually they'll gravity bleed.

[jtdesigns]

Well it's time for my brakes to be bled. I went to the hardware store and got about 30ft of 3/16 (I think) hose. The plan is just to zip tie the hose ends on all 4 open bleeder values, route them all back to the m/c, then just pump the pedal. It will be more of a cycle of fluid coming through the hose back to the m/c.

 

Although,,I'm unsure about the height value, and the prop value sending all the fluid to the rear bypassing the height value.

 

Does anyone have input on this before I start the bleeding?

 

I think it should work out, but who knows.

go or no go??

 

I've never tried it, but wouldn't recommend it. You're just recycling possible contaminated fluid back into the system. I like to gravity bleed the system for a couple of hours first by opening all four valves that are connected via plastic tubing into a jar w. about 1/2" of brake fluid in it; the plastic tubing below the level of the fluid. This lets the bulk of the air our of the system w/o allowing any more in as long as you top off the m/c periodically. Then shut all the bleed valves and bleed the conventional way starting at the RR, LR, RF, then LF wheels. I still have my load leveling installed, and this works for me. :D

 

Thanks I'll do the gravity bleed first, but I did read somewhere that you need to open the front and then bleed the rear again, the prop values bypass.

[Oizarod115]

when i did my drums (completely factory stuff no mods to the brakelines or valves) all we did was open the rear bleeders and let them drip. then when they got ot a steady stream closed em off and the pedal felt great.

[HOrnbrod]

Thanks I'll do the gravity bleed first, but I did read somewhere that you need to open the front and then bleed the rear again, the prop values bypass.

 

Yes, that's how the FSM says to do it. Did try it, but I got better results doing it as posted when I had stock brakes. I have disks on the back now; still do it the same way.

[jtdesigns]

ok. I've been reading when car and trucks that don't have ABS have better results using DOT 5 fluid. You do however have to remove all your old DOT 3 or 4 fluids. If I was wanting to flush all my lines couldn't I run something through the lines then refill with the DOT 5?? Like kerosene or some other type of wash.

[HOrnbrod]

ok. I've been reading when car and trucks that don't have ABS have better results using DOT 5 fluid. You do however have to remove all your old DOT 3 or 4 fluids. If I was wanting to flush all my lines couldn't I run something through the lines then refill with the DOT 5?? Like kerosene or some other type of wash.

 

Don't know, never tried it. I'd wound definitely never introduce anything other than brake fluid into the system, might damage the seals. I still use DOT 3 as recommended for my brakes. Mopar does market a brake system cleaner fluid, never tried it. I always use fresh DOT 3.

[jtdesigns]

ok. I've been reading when car and trucks that don't have ABS have better results using DOT 5 fluid. You do however have to remove all your old DOT 3 or 4 fluids. If I was wanting to flush all my lines couldn't I run something through the lines then refill with the DOT 5?? Like kerosene or some other type of wash.

 

Don't know, never tried it. I'd wound definitely never introduce anything other than brake fluid into the system, might damage the seals. I still use DOT 3 as recommended for my brakes. Mopar does market a brake system cleaner fluid, never tried it. I always use fresh DOT 3.

Yeah rubber doesn't like petro's to well huh....

I think I can wait till I check that brake cleaner fluid out from the dealer, also I think I'll stick with the DOT 3/4 fluids.

 

Thanks, guys

 

 

:thumbsup:

[pingpong]

buy a set of speed bleeders... makes real quick work out of bleeding brakes. You can get the front and rear bleeders from Napa for under 30 bucks

[jtdesigns]

buy a set of speed bleeders... makes real quick work out of bleeding brakes. You can get the front and rear bleeders from Napa for under 30 bucks

 

Yeah I saw those. They are like check values right?

[pingpong]

Yup and they work like a charm. just make sure you do one tire at a time.. furthest first... then so on and so forth. I needed to different sizes on my rig... fronts were different from the rear. Best to take a bleeder out from the front and rear.. and bring them down to the store. There are 2 possible choices front and rear, and thats if no one changed the parts.