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'87 Pioneer Longbed


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41 minutes ago, Pete M said:

 

totally normal for tires to chirp a bit when doing tight turns in AWD  :L:  there's only so much that the t-case can give to balance the system before the tires will inevitably bind.

Thanks for the info. I will just drive it and not worry about right now.

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Picked up a used Warn M8000 winch and got it installed in my new bumper. Mounted the solenoid box under the hood. Got it wired up and running. Also replaced the steel cable with synthetic line.2081472781_IMG_20250605_175338976_HDR2.jpg.bea8511ba135ab3f616b7ea33554d95a.jpg1925820820_IMG_20250530_163712358_HDR2.jpg.439b3e273061b4a289d46afed318005a.jpg1214260560_IMG_20250605_174437600_HDR2.jpg.dbd5eb26a4bc194ce788d212faf9d4da.jpg

 

The only thing I don't like very much is how close the wires are to the mechanical fan. I need to make something to go over those wires. The bumper will be powder coated soon.

IMG_20250531_173257304_HDR~2.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Replumbed the entire brake system. I used a dual diaphragm booster and master cylinder from a 98 XJ. New Wilwood distribution block with adjustable proptioning valve for the rear. Along with all new lines front to back.94693371_IMG_20250614_1817047882.jpg.23747782a41490c06805ae7daddb8f97.jpg

 

The master cylinder bolts right in place but the booster pushrod is too long. I cut out about 3/4" and welded it back together. The final length of the pushrod from the mounting surface should be 4-7/8" for stock pedal height.

 

I am using the brake light switch built into the distribution block. So far it does the job. I might change that up and use a 95 XJ brake light switch later.

 

Now the brakes are more than just a suggestion and actually function as they are supposed to. The old distribution block was clogged up with corrosion. I am surprised I had any brakes at all.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I got the both bumpers powder coated and the winch is fully installed and operational. I was able to keep the factory skid plate with the new bumper. Also I did a custom free spool lever so I didn't have to reach under the Jeep to unlock the winch. I cut off the handle and welded a 3/8" extension on it and drilled a hole in the bumper to access it. It works very well.1749974549_IMG_20250704_204512633_HDR2.jpg.051da80d3bcb96d1684bf47818709503.jpg878431064_IMG_20250704_193323615_HDR3.jpg.d898d6af0fa664b0ed8973f7cbb29a7f.jpg363400476_IMG_20250704_193315488_HDR2.jpg.7f58e7245439fdac0ff59177e6c04217.jpg713454662_IMG_20250704_1810298122.jpg.930522ba0537b673c41dd353e0089d7f.jpg

 

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Picked up a freshly rebuilt '91 4.0 to swap into my truck. Also picked up a '99 horseshoe manifold with a '93 fuel rail and a '96 throttle body from the junkyard to throw on it. Hopefully I will start this swap next weekend.1262989157_IMG_20250823_1742549472.jpg.05302222d8ef43bbab403b643e89a38b.jpg

 

The guy I got this engine from is an automotive machinist and he rebuilds and machines jeep motors on the side. It is bored over .020 with new cam/lifters, polished crank and  fully machined block and head.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I got the engine swap completed. This is a full H.O. block and head running Renix EFI.IMG_20250913_120227529_HDR.jpg.bef55e9cd0abb1ff706fca6516f6630e.jpg

 

91 4.0 H.O. block and head, 99 intake manifold, throttle body, air box and power steering pump, shorter serpentine belt #5061000. 

 

Open cooling system conversion using a Mopar radiator I found in the junkyard (totally clean and leak free).

 

I used H.O. thermostat housing that I ported.440729317_IMG_20250718_1617190382.jpg.ccf9016e24a2be767a268a0daf73abd0.jpg I put a thermal fan switch in the port meant for the H.O. temp sensor. This is the one I got and it works great. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=27900

 

Used a universal coolant overflow bottle that fits perfectly next to the air box. Dorman #603-001. I got mine at the local AutoZone for about $25 after tax. It is a true expansion tank with the port on the bottom.637211710_IMG_20250913_124331396_HDR2.jpg.d24bd751ab0d7ff0ed07204da88c2b97.jpg

 

Renix fuel rail with tabs welded on to mount to the new manifold. Did that so I didn't need to figure out new fuel lines. Also the Renix fuel rail should run a lot cooler being it is a nearly full cycle fuel rail. Meaning fuel goes in one side and out the other. It doesn't dead head like the H.O. fuel rail does having both the supply and return ports right next to each other.1230126759_IMG_20250913_123840676_HDR2.jpg.5271955c571cba84c8f11fd65de5c6e6.jpg

 

 

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Tested my winch today pulling a tree stump out of my parent's yard. My dad cut off all the roots we could see and then we hooked up the winch and the stump put up a good fight but the winch won.IMG_20250918_185803510.jpg

(Pic is the stump in my dad's '89 Chevy K2500)

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