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Fuel Rail Rear Disconnect Removal?


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Hi. How on earth do you remove the rear fuel return line connector on a renix fuel rail?

I was going to use a fuel rail insert, but the black tabs prevent me from inserting it into the fitting.

I have tried pulling, pushing then pulling, squeezing the black tabs then pulling, using pliers to squeeze the black tabs then pulling. Nothing works.

Does anyone know how to remove this?

20230413_135908.jpg

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It can be a pain in the a$$, but yes , just squeeze the two black tabs and pull on the line fitting. Try pushing in the line first then pulling. The black piece stays with the fuel rail and there are two o-rings and a spacer between them, don’t lose them unless you have replacements. Also you might have to remove the bracket that holds the line in place on the side of the intake manifold to get enough slack in the line.

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So you are saying that the front and back connectors internally are the same even though the connectors on the front and back of the renix fuel rail are different?

 

I already purchased:

Napa CRB 212305 fuel line repair kit 5/16 (Standard Motor Products HK7)
Dorman 800-750 trans line repair kit 3/8

 

The Dorman 800-750 looks like it will be suitable for the front. Do I use another Dorman 800-750 on the back fuel rail connector or the Napa CRB 212305?

 

Thanks!

 

 

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If the Dorman fits the front it should fit the rear. The Renix and HO have different size connectors, I thought the HO were the larger ones, but not sure. Can someone confirm?

 

Do the kits have two o-rings, a spacer and the tab release thingy?

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The rear and front are the same except the part coming off the rail at the rear looks like the hard metal line at the front that goes into the pressure regulator and the pressure regulator fitting is the same as the rear line. If that makes sense.

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You sir are a gentlemen and a scholar. I was able to remove the fitting and the o-rings on the rear plug look similar to the ones on the front.

I had to use 2 people to remove the rear connector. My brother used a smooth jaw pliers-wrench on the dual tabbed plastic part and I wiggled and tuged the connector. It came off with ease. I simply did not have enough hand strength to squeeze the dual black release tabs on the connector. I also did not want to use a lot of force on a connector 30+years old. It worked in the long run and in a stroke of luck, nothing was deformed, broken or damaged.

 

Thanks a ton @fiatslug87!:thanks:

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