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2.5L guys- clean that CCV vacuum fitting!


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Every 2.5L crankcase ventilation vacuum fitting I've ever looked at was completely blocked like the one in the video.  If it is blocked, the crankcase isn't being evacuated by engine vacuum, which can result in engine oil leaks from the pressure trying to escape.  In the long term, the result can be excessive deposits left in the engine.

 

Fortunately, the fix is simple.  Pull the vacuum hose off (check that it's not blocked, as well), unscrew the brass vacuum fitting.  Clean from the vacuum line side by inserting a 5/32" drill bit and twisting it between your fingers.  Once most of the gunk is out, use a 5/64" drill bit to clean the orifice on the engine side of the vacuum fitting.  Do this by hand, not with an electric drill- the goal is to remove the deposits, not enlarge the openings.  I follow this by scrubbing the inside with a cotton tip applicator* soaked in brake cleaner.  The cotton tip may get stuck in the fitting- push it out with the 5/64" drill bit.

 

*The cotton tip applicator is like a long q-tip with a wooden handle, I get them from Amazon in packs of 1000 for gun cleaning and general shop use.  https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Cotton+Tipped+Applicators+6+inch&i=industrial&crid=2YOQIPGJ13S0D&sprefix=cotton+tipped+applicators+6+inch%2Cindustrial%2C377&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

 

When that's done, it can be screwed back in and the vacuum line reconnected.  You may want to use some sealant on the threads.  I'm fond of Loctite 545 pneumatic/hydraulic thread sealant.  I use it on all my air tool connections and it works better than thread tape in preventing leaks.  It's not cheap, however.

 

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=loctite+545&i=automotive&crid=3RLNRXE2O0JZ7&sprefix=loctite+545%2Cautomotive%2C327&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

 

Spending a few minutes on the buffer wheel is completely optional.

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2.5 XJ valve cover emissions.png

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