Power actuated tailgate lock

[Gjeep]

I’ll start by saying there are many ways you can make a power tailgate lock setup for an MJ…Different shape plate, flip the actuator the other way, etc. The below is simply the way I did it. The most influential factor for building it this way was how/ where the best place was for the actuator rod (aka the ‘lock’) to access through the tailgate handle.

 

I have a scanned pdf of the actual plate size and hole locations attached at the bottom of this write-up. Trim out the actuator plate from a 16-gauge steel. The three tailgate handle holes on the plate are larger than the torx bolts that fill them so there is slight play when installing/ lining everything up. Paint or powdercoat your actuator plate so it doesn’t rust. 

 

 

I recommend you use your own measurements to locate/ drill holes for both the tailgate handle lock rod passage and the power actuator to plate holes, so all is spot-on based on the where holes land on your own tailgate handle. Note – the tailgate handle will be challenging to drill accurately through. Especially the black ‘handle’ part. The curves on the side of the handle make it challenging. Take your time to make sure all is lined up. The holes you make for the actuator rod to poke through should be just a hair larger than the rod itself.

 

 

 

The power actuator rod itself will need to be trimmed down to 1” in length when fully extended. Once cut, line up the actuator with the rod fully extended into the holes of the tailgate handle you drilled. It’s at this point it will make sense to drill holes to secure the power actuator to the plate. Note, depending on the actuator you buy, you may need to shim between the actuator and actuator plate to level it out. I needed to shim and chose to use proper size washers with rubber backing.

 

"Locked"

 

 

"Unlocked"

 

 

Washer shim/ spacing for actuator -

 

 

 

Test fit the plate assembly with actuator. You’ll need to install the triangular (left side) of the plate first and go as far to the driver side as you can so the actuator can clear the opening. Remove the assembly one test fit is successful.

 

Next up – run the wires. I added factory power windows and door locks to my MJ. Additionally, I installed a DEI Viper alarm system that has key fobs that lock/ unlock the doors. Factory wiring to tap involved for the ’91 and ’92 model year is OEM black/white wire to tailgate actuator BLUE; OEM pink/black wire to tailgate actuator GREEN wire. (Renix era will be different color wires.) I ran wiring for the power tailgate lock out the same factory grommet (essentially under the driver seat floor pan) that taillight and fuel pump/ sender wires go through. From there I ran them along back exterior side of the cab and down the passenger side frame rail up high. I chose to put a Delphi Weather-Pack connector there so I could disconnect and remove the tailgate should I need to. (Know if you do want to remove the tailgate from the truck, you’ll need to remove the two wires from the connector so they can slide through the factory hole near the tailgate swivel point they run through.)

 

 

 

 

From there I ran the wires into the passenger side taillight area and to the tailgate itself via an existing hole near the factory tailgate swivel point, then along the bottom of the tailgate and up into the center drain hole. At the end of that wire (factoring in proper length) I added another Weather-Pack connector so I could swap out the actuator should it ever go bad.

Final install – Connect the power actuator to the inner tailgate wiring. You don’t want to get everything installed and then realize you forgot to plug things in.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Below is a photo of full assembly prior installation of tailgate. It would be a good idea to tighten down the bolts backside and make sure everything works/ clears as it should prior to installation.

 

 

Before inserting the actuator plate into the tailgate handle access hole, make sure your tailgate latch rods are resting on the inner ledge atop the handle opening. It will be easier to get to them when they are up there when it’s time to attach the linkage to the handle once the actuator plate is in place. Now, with the electrical connected, insert the actuator plate (actuator still installed) into the handle opening of the tailgate. It can rest on the lower ledge inside the tailgate (it won’t fall straight down into the tailgate because it can’t, but it CAN fall to the right and into the abyss). Next, connect the tailgate handle linkage. With your right hand raise the actuator plate into place and with your left hand raise the handle to line up with the tailgate handle mounting holes on the gate itself. I suggest having some small screwdrivers in the bed so you can ‘catch’ the holes from the backside of the tailgate. Once all is lined up, install the factory torx bolts and test the lock/ unlock.

 

 

 

 

Tailgate template.pdf

 

[lippetd]

Thanks for this!  I hadn't considered the possibility of a locking tailgate for my Comanche.  I love the feature on my F150!

[GTCJRAM]

Exactly what I was looking for. Nice write up. 

[ghetdjc320]

Here are some pics of my install. I also went with a very similar design but since I had my tailgate split and had built some internal square tube frame for reinforcement I decided to add an additional pin guide to relieve the strain on the actuator. I used 3/16 galvanized steel rod along with 1/2x1/2” square tubing. The guide holes for the locking pin are 7/32”.  The guide itself I welded onto the inner “frame” that I had built for the gate. I didn’t built a bracket for the unit but the actuator can still be removed through the opening for the handle once the gate has been reassembled. Once I had everything fabbed up and welded, it was sanded, cleaned and sealed with epoxy.