Dana 30 pinion rebuild, need part numbers

[Airborne Janitor]

I have a HP non-disconnect Dana30 out of a 97 XJ that's under my 89 MJ. I believe the parts for the pinion are the same as the disconnect axles? Anyways I'm planning on keeping the current gears in there (3.55) but I believe the pinion bearing(s) are toast. Looking for part numbers for the rebuild (bearings/race, shims, slingers, seals, etc), preferably Spicer/Timken numbers if available. Thank you.

[MiNi Beast]

Yeah they be same, swap em out. Rockauto.com 

[gogmorgo]

I'll second Rockauto. I bought my full axle rebuild (including gears) from them, but they're useful even just to look up part numbers to try to source somewhere else.

 

If you're just replacing bearings, all you really need are the bearings, although I'd get a pinion nut and seal. Usually you can get all four bearings plus the seal and nut in a differential rebuild kit. If you're not setting up new gears you'll be able to reuse the existing shims to preserve the current contact pattern. You don't really want the gears to have to break in to a new pattern anyway if you can avoid it. Just make sure any shims or spacers you pull out go back in the exact same place as they were, and keep in mind that depending on who set up your axle they might be pressed on under a bearing cone, or else under the race itself so be careful when pressing things apart. 

The pinion nut is a distorted-thread lock nut, and they don't necessarily stay lock nuts if you remove and reinstall them, so you definitely want a new nut. It's not unusual for a reused nut to slowly work itself loose after a seal change, and it's also not unusual for people to realize they didn't actually need new pinion bearings and only had to tighten the nut back up. As for the crush spacer for setting pinion bearing preload, you're supposed to use a new one to reset the preload, but the amount of torque on the nut it actually takes to crush it in my experience has been much higher than a typical half-inch drive torque wrench is good for, so you can probably just get away with reusing the existing spacer and torquing the nut to like 225lb-ft. Ideally you'd then measure the rotating torque to make sure it's still within spec. Don't forget to put RTV on the splines for the pinion yoke, or they will leak on you. And make sure all the bearings are coated in oil when it goes together, you don't want to preload them dry.