SOA pinion angle

[JEEPERZ]

when i ordered my bolt on soa kit from RR, i had done some searching to find the size shims i would need for the rear for the proper pinion angle. I ordered 5* steel ones. the most info i could find was to wait until it was done and look at it to see what needs done. right now I'm using the stock angle. what is somewhat of a standard, is 5* ok? I'm fairly new at wrenching so i can't just look at it and know what i should do. what are you guys using for * on a SOA with stock shackles? steel shims are expensive!!! :eek:

[Twisty]

If you're not running an SYE, I wouldnt use any shims. The pinion of the axle, and the output of the transfercase are supposed to be paralell. Shims will mess that up, and putt all the load on the top u-joint. I'm at 6" in the rear and don't use any shims. The new SOA spring perches are paralell with the SUA perches...which makes the axle have the same angle as before.

[JeepcoMJ]

If you're not running an SYE, I wouldnt use any shims. The pinion of the axle, and the output of the transfercase are supposed to be paralell. Shims will mess that up, and putt all the load on the top u-joint. I'm at 6" in the rear and don't use any shims. The new SOA spring perches are paralell with the SUA perches...which makes the axle have the same angle as before.

 

yes, the axle has the same angle but the ujoints no longer do. they have a much steeper angle. generally you need new ujoints when you do this; they don't like their operating angles changed after they've been running one for awhile. also you need to be sure that you have enough room for suspension compression/droop/flex allowing for ujoint movement without binding.

 

as a result. if your angle will be too sharp, you need to adjust your pinion angle accordingly...but at the same time need to also adjust the transfercase angle accordingly (t-case drop).

 

a YJ yoke helps alot to remove binding.

[mjeff87]

yup, exactly what those guys said.

 

Keep the perches parallel to the SUA ones, change the UJ's and check for clearance, especially the top one at the back of the TC. I switched back to the standard XJ/MJ yoke when I had the new driveshaft built, and now I think I'm gonna have to pull it back out and swap the YJ one back in....It doesn't bind at full droop, but it's too close for comfort for me.

 

Jeff

 

(figuring this SOA thing out, one step at a time....:D)

[JEEPERZ]

thanks guys, thats what i needed :cheers:

guess ill be selling the steel shims

[carnuck]

If you SYE then you need to point the yoke at the trans. Parallel to the ground if not.