zaconrad Posted February 27, 2021 Share Posted February 27, 2021 I'm doing an engine swap on my 86 Comanche. I will be stroking and boring it. I'll also be posting parts that i am using. Anybody have some advice? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derf Posted February 27, 2021 Share Posted February 27, 2021 www.jeepstrokers.com has tons of info. Are you replacing the engine in your 86 or was it already swapped to a 4.0? There are some issues with the 4.0 swap with known fixes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zaconrad Posted February 27, 2021 Author Share Posted February 27, 2021 No I'm replacing the 2.5 that was in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted February 28, 2021 Share Posted February 28, 2021 3 hours ago, zaconrad said: No I'm replacing the 2.5 that was in it. So are you building a 2.5 stroker or a 4.0 based stroker? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted February 28, 2021 Share Posted February 28, 2021 The following is my general experience with strokers over the last 9 years. I am by no means the expert here but have been down the rabbit hole on a few of these stroker builds: stay away from 505 performance. Hesco is also quite overpriced and isn’t in the game much anymore. Clifford performance is not the company it used to be. Also stick with efi if at all possible. Bolt on efi is so simple anymore there is just no reason for a carb. Long (4.0) rod strokers have better rod angles but will require pistons with a specific pin height. Keep your quench tight (.040) or there about is good. The 4.2 crank from 87-90 YJ’s is a bolt in with no snout machining. The skat crank is also a very nice setup and is bolt in. The 12 counterweight crank is not an upgrade for a stroker and will simply have more inertia to overcome. Crank scrapers and windage trays are nice but only really shine at higher revs or extreme angles. Also worth considering the 4.2 “mini” stroker with a 232 crank and 4.0 rods. It’s a nice “jeepspeed” style engine build. Recomended brands: King or clevite bearings, hylift johnson lifters, cometic head gaskets, Mopar purple cams or another cam with stock lobe width, cloyes timing sets, felpro permadry gaskets, totally stainless engine fastener kits, remflex manifold gaskets, arp head rod and main bolts, Gibson or AFE headers, strokedjeep throttle bodies, Edelbrock aluminum heads, brass freeze plugs. As always, Russ Pottenger is the man for strokers. His info is on the Jeep strokers site. His prices are great and to my knowledge, his head machining work outflows any other head out there. He also builds complete strokers that are absolutely top notch. He can supply kits with pistons, cam, springs, crank and whatever you need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zaconrad Posted March 2, 2021 Author Share Posted March 2, 2021 Thanks I found a Stoker kit from Clegg. I talked to my local machinist about their kit and he said that their kits look pretty good. https://www.cleggengine.com/jeep-4-0-stroker-kits.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted March 3, 2021 Share Posted March 3, 2021 On 3/3/2021 at 3:06 AM, zaconrad said: Thanks I found a Stoker kit from Clegg. I talked to my local machinist about their kit and he said that their kits look pretty good. https://www.cleggengine.com/jeep-4-0-stroker-kits.html Yep they’re not bad at all. If your getting their kit, stick with the longer 4.0 rods vs the short 4.2 rods. It’s a bit extra but worth it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zaconrad Posted March 4, 2021 Author Share Posted March 4, 2021 That was my thought as well, another thing I wanted was simplicity while choosing parts and this kit just takes a lot of the thinking out of what parts to pick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zaconrad Posted March 28, 2021 Author Share Posted March 28, 2021 I ended up buying the Clegg stage 4 stoker kit with the floating wrist pin connecting rods and the molly piston rings given the higher compression ratio of 10:1. I have chosen to go with the .030 over pistons making this engine's total displacement 4.6L. This almost completes the bottom end of the engine given that it comes everything you need with the exception of the gaskets, timing chain and a couple of other smaller things. For the camshaft I decided to go with the Comp Cams 4x4 218/226 camshaft for the jeep 4.0. It is worth noting that because of this Cam's higher lift different valve springs will be needed. Comp Cams also make a kit with the camshaft and a double roller timing chain which is what I have chosen to go with. For valve springs Comp Cams recommended a company called Hughes Engines. they specialize in most Mopar engines. When I called them about Valve springs for the higher lift camshaft they recommended part number 1110p. They said that these springs will handle the high lift great and will also eliminate the problem with valve float on this engine allowing me to hopefully run this engine out to around 5700 RPM. https://www.compcams.com/xtreme-4x4-218-226-hydraulic-flat-cam-sk-kit-for-amc-199-258-4-0l.html http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/products.php?browse=search&search=110P&submit=Go&partid=35162 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 I’d recommend reaching out to Russ Pottenger at Buehler racing. He can hook you up with the best cam and spring setup for your engine. He is the man when it comes to these builds. Here is his email: russbnbracing@yahoo.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zaconrad Posted March 28, 2021 Author Share Posted March 28, 2021 Thanks Ill look into it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 Lots of people use beehive LS springs. If you have a decent machine shop that can machine the spring pockets and do the valve you might want to consider going with LS parts. LS valve are also 8mm and come in a huge variety of sizes and materials. I went with a complete Edelbrock head and have no regrets. The updated chamber design is quite nice and the springs are good for pretty much any cam you can throw at it. The issues I have with the comp cams setup is the vacuum at idle which will lead to inadequate brake booster respond. Also, they use a very narrow lobe which is more prone to wear. They are probably 35% narrower than the oem cam and have far less lifter contact. The Mopar 2229 cam is also a nice options for a mid rpm build. Most of these cams though will loose vacuum. On my last stroker build I went with a hydroboost brake setup to get the brake performance back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zaconrad Posted March 28, 2021 Author Share Posted March 28, 2021 Does the Edelbrock head come with better valve springs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 6 hours ago, zaconrad said: Does the Edelbrock head come with better valve springs? Yes it does Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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